What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nice

 

Highest point on island conquered by a best Gen

 

Wait a sec you're not a jeep......

 

Found a straight fender and a driver side interior door pull handle on a v6 2wd AC at the junkyard. Pulled an ignition coil from a sequoia to fix the misfire i had. There was a Leer legend on the donor truck. Might go back for it at the $150 price. And maybe the 03-09 5 spoke 4runner wheels I saw with 50% tread left on pathfinder all-terrains.

 

Very nice. I’m running the same setup up front. I do like how it handles.

I will also recommend these tires. I’m on my 2nd set (AT51, though). I squeezed 80k out of the first set 285/75r16.

I didn’t grab it to quote it, but @Hutcheson you mentioned pizza cutters, look into 255/85r16. I really like the way those look on our trucks and will do those in the future. I have found that at a price point, the Falkin Wildpeak AT4 is cheaper that the Khumo Road Venture AT52 in that size and a more recommended tire. Food for thought.

Thank you! Feels good (root beer)

 

They discontinued the AT51s...... Sadly. I have/ had both now, I feel the 51s did a bit better on slick pavement, but the 52s do better on wet and actively raining pavement. But I could be wrong...

Off road performance no difference in the two

 

@Hutcheson here's your mud cutters

https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/kumho-road-venture-a-t-52

 

There's a first intro post for you

Welcome to the forum!

 

Cheers man, found that my local shop has some 51s in stock. Not a huge difference with driving in wet conditions?

 

Oh snap, a new guy....... Welcome to the best shit show you're gonna find for the 1GTs baby.

Don't worry we'll teach you how to use the search function which will still lead you to reask your original question back in the threads after it fails you 85% of the time, LMFAO.
@shifty`

 

Shit grabem up, they're being discontinued. I knew they hadn't stopped production yet, fucking shit ass manager at Discount in Converse lying to me.

 

Agreed!

You do have to be in a caloric deficit for the scale to go down. But if you want to lose fat and not just weight, you have to give your body a reason to maintain muscle (work out with weights). Your body prefers to use muscle for energy over fat as fat is easier for the body to maintain. So if you're not working out, giving your body a reason to maintain muscle, it will burn muscle and you'll end up "skinny fat" (not my term).

And then to @shifty` (s) point, the more muscle you gain / maintain, the more calories (fat) your body burns maintaining the muscle.

I could go on and on but I think the point has been covered...

 

TLDR: Eat less calories than you burn at the gym, lots of protein rich food, makes the muscles grown and burn the fattys away.

 

After I get this clutch for my GLI bought the next thing I'm gonna start to build is a little home gym, free weights, none of that machine shit. Personal preference I guess.

 

This was the light bulb for our oldest. Understanding that:

You can starve yourself with 1,000-1,200 calories effective a day, feel hungry, and have your body attack muscle instead of the fat with very little healthy change in weight that comes back any time you intake more calories...
Or you can eat 1,600 calories a day, not be as hungry, then hike/lift off 500 calories a day for 1,100 effective calories, and you'll increase your calorie-burning muscle mass with a much healthier change in weight.

It's all about calorie-in/calorie out, but understanding your minimum calorie needs, and working toward calorie deficit with exercise.

She didn't grasp that you can basically use physical activity to offset your calorie intake, getting you to a lower effective calorie intake without starving your body.

 

You all probably know this, but I found it so much easier to go under the star wheel to free the lock arm (to loosen the brake shoes and get the drum off)

 

I think that's how it supposed to be done. It's the only way I've been able to.

 

Weird, I just use the threaded bolt hole provisions in the drum itself, run a bolt into each until it's finger tight, ratchet each one a couple turns and the drum pops right off. That's the whole purpose of those two threaded opposing holes. I've never worked on a truck wdrum brakes lacking them.

It's a common size/thread pitch because I've acquired about 15 in my spare hardare bin over the years that thread right in.

​

 

I did try that, don't have a huge selection of Metric on hand so they were shorties. But they started pulling the shoes off with the drum. Between how tight I adjusted them last week, and the rusty ridge on the drum... I just decided to back the gears off.
I have seen a graphic on here that shows going over the top with a pick to release it. That's the only reason I posted that.

 

I typically tap the drum with a BFH around the perimeter of the drum a few times to help break up the death grip the shoes can have on the drum. But yeah, if they're tight, no other option than hooking. I just don't typically run into that. I have, it's normally a corner case.

 

When you can spin the drum by hand (light drag, shoes not stuck) and she don't want to come off... it's gotta be the ridge in there. I almost replaced the old drums, but heard here that like many things, new ones are shite/warp.
Maybe I can invert them on the axle, let her idle, and do some magic with the angle grinder. Wife would be super fkn impressed. 3rd trip taking me to ER might be a charm.

 

Yes if overighten it seems best as you describe to back them off first before removing drum. Have found as @shifty` notes that even adjusting outward with drum off is easier and can help to not overtighthen (as then can't get drum on). I also find it easier to adjust with drum off because can feel for the tightness of the drum by shifting it against the shoes.If really follow the FSM, can use a caliper to measure brake drum ID and OD of the brake shoes for difference between the diameters is the correct shoe clearance (IIRC 0.5mm).

 

Parking brake (With new bellcranks) working as intended now, Holds to about 1200-1300rpm. Pretty happy that the rest of the cabling system was intact and willing to function (because I didn't even really inspect it other than the middle connection).
Addressing the middle adjustment will be a battle for another day... Have a few angles of attack coming to mind. But for now the adjustment at the pedal (all of it) was enough to get a good grip.
Don't get the clicks like you would expect on the pedal, and she's kind of temperamental about locking down every time, but I will rarely ever use it for anything but keeping my brakes adjusted.
Scraped and painted a bit, for what it's worth. Drenched in FluidFilm.

 

Got some new links in

 

One of SM's install sheets shows the bottom cam should sit parallel to the ground. Is it accurate? I dunno. Is it a pain in the ass to keep it parallel while wrenching it down? Hell yes.

Big question is: How's it FEEL?!

 

The install was easy. I drove around for a while and checked the links after the drive. Everything seems ok, instructions also say may not be possible in all cases.

 

Well, I had them cranked out manually pretty tight/right.
So they FEEL like ever so slightly more when it comes to pedal travel.
I fkn Stood on that park brake pedal to get more clicks....
Maybe when I brake the middle adjustment free and take up more slack it will improve.
I'm not afraid to get under there and just YANK the cables either though, we'll see how the first week of commuting goes.
I get no fking clicks either so that measurement is just guess work.
But braking is strong, same as before. They are all relatively new brakes.

 

Hell yeah, get under there and give 'im the ol' reach-around!

 

Went to put in my new lower ball joints today and the arsehole from Advanced Auto gave me a defective loaner kit. Tie rod end puller had the ends broken off. By the time I returned it to swap it out, it was too late in the day. Had to get ready to take my folks out to dinner as their belated X-mas gift.