Reading trans temps - Questions about model year, device

Far as I know it’s firmware sent directly to me but doesn’t mean it’s private. They didn’t mention it being a beta. Reach out to service and ask for Chris LaRoche. That’s the person I got that helped me out.

 

I just spoke to Kyle and he knew all about you and Chris getting this to work and said you were a huge help in making it happen.

*Funny story* When I started telling him the situation and said "So I have a Tundra and I'm on a Tundra owners forum" he went "Oh no..."

It actually is in Beta but he's gonna' push it out to me as soon as I finish setting up my account on the Maestro app.

Good news is that since I got the RR2 I'll be able to flash it via BT without having to pull the Maestro out.

I'm gonna' be so flippin' happy if this actually works.

 

Excellent. Glad to hear it. Chris was really easy to work with on this.

 

Yeah, Kyle seems very cool and helpful too.

 

That's awesome that you don't have to remove it and plug it into a computer.
I never can find that cable..

Look thru the settings and see if there are any steering wheel buttons you would like to change , while you're reflasing it.

 

Yes! I really didn't wanna' mess with opening up the dash, that's why I had the stereo shop install it!

I barely have the steering wheel buttons memorized from the initial setup, so I'll probably just leave 'em alone

 

BAM!!





Not gonna' lie, I giggled like a little schoolgirl when I saw that it worked!
Reflashed via Bluetooth, set up steering wheel controls, validated PID's, select gauges, and oh happy day, there it was!

@centex I can't begin to tell you how grateful I am that you made this happen. Had you not helped the guys at iDatalink Maestro with the data points and PIDs, they probably wouldn't have pursued it, and I would've probably given up and bought a Veepeak module to use my phone.
If you ever come to San Diego hit me up, and I'll take you for steak dinner!

I'm so glad this is finally working, makes me wanna' go get my trailer from storage just to watch my temps!

 

Glad it worked for you to. I did very little work with them. All I did was send them the pid’s and they confirmed they were looking for those and sent me the firmware.

 

Okay then, a cheeseburger.

Nah, they said you were very helpful.

FYI, they asked me to post that although this is currently in Beta and has to be pushed out to individual Maestro accounts, since yours worked and now mine worked, the engineers will play with it when they get back on Monday and it should be live within a week or two.

*Side note* I'm glad I spent the extra $50 to get the RR2 Maestro. That allowed me to reflash myself using BT without having to pull the unit out.

It also allows me to have control of three programmable outputs. This means that eventually when I install some lights I'll be able to control them via a relay from the HU without having to run wires to switches inside the cab.

 

So Are any of you guys reading trans temps on a head unit able to see both pan & TC readings like the scanner & app guys can?

I'm assuming since I just have the one temp reading it's probably the pan?

Once it gets up to temp it doesn't really budge. (but I haven't towed the trailer yet since getting the gauge to work)

If I'm reading pan temp and TC temps spike a little (Say I'm towing and hit a grade, or if I'm wheeling) how quickly is that reflected in the pan?

 

That I do not know. From what I'm seeing on mine, it looks like pan temps.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too.

What are you typically running at? Curious the difference since you have an '18 w/cooler vs. my stupid little puck.

I was watching mine yesterday... mix of freeway in D and S4, and then some surface streets. It gets up to about 204º-206º and doesn't move...

It seems like if the fluid in the TC got much hotter it should reflect at least a few degrees increase in the pan temps fairly quick, but I don't really know.

 

I used to monitor converter and pan with my scan gauge and the interesting thing is while the transmission was warming up, the pan was warmer than the converter but once the trans temp had warmed up and stabilized, then the converter temp would go higher quicker. Even then, normal city driving when it's 95* outside was in the low 190's or upper 180's for both. Only time I saw anything crazy was pulling a hill while towing my rzr and with the converter unlocked and then the converter temps would spike to 220-230* but come right back down the moment it locked.

 

Thank you, that's comforting to know.

I drive more by the tach than the speedo when I'm towing, and try to be very conscious of lockup.

I'd rather manually downshift, slow down, &/or run at higher RPM's so as to avoid a bunch of lock/unlock, or unnecessary shifting.

 

I just put the hammer down and let it sort itself out. If it breaks, upgrade.

 

Atta' boy!

 

One thing I would like to see is the ability to offset the displayed speed. i’ve got a hypertech adjusting the signal to my instrument cluster, so it drives me nuts to see the HU showing a number that is about 10% off…

 

I did notice that the Kenwood says I'm going 2 MPH slower than the digital readout in my dash cluster thinks I am.

I guess now when the cop says "Do you know how fast you were going?" I can honestly say "No... No I don't officer"

 

Same with my Sony. It's a Maestro thing.

 

yes - it's because the Maestro is getting the direct output from CAN while the Instrument Cluster is getting a value that is being adjusted (by the Hypertech).

 

I don't have a hypertech. So not sure where it's getting it from that would make it be different than the cluster but it's getting it from somewhere. My tire size is compensated for in my tune but my understanding is that that does not affect the speedometer on the cluster. I know my speedo on the cluster is 2-3mph slower than a GPS speedo app.