1st Gen..Looking for some guidance.

Working on my daughter’s 2006 tundra SR5 TRD PRO 4wd. It now has 155k miles on it. When she first picked it up it had 110k and I did the timing belt and water pump and associated wear parts up front along with a plugs and tune up parts. All good. Never read about the issues with the lower ball joints. But luckily they are still intact.
She just returned after 3 years from out west without issues.
So after reading about the LBJ failures I believe it’s time..
Also when I was inspecting every thing I found a few other items.
Wondering what after market parts are acceptable to install and what online sites and aftermarket brands are any good.
Working on my daughter’s budget can’t afford all OEM.
Plan on replacing the following.
Just ordered new tires and planning on a alignment when everything is done.
1. Lower ball joints with OEM
2. Front strut assembles, pre assembled. What can I get away with for aftermarket? Unfortunately BILSTEIN 4600 FRONT ASSEMBLED COILOVERS are pretty far out of the budget.
3. Rear shocks
4. Steering rack bushings.. All sorts of play
5. Drive shaft center support bearing.. all sorts of play
6. U joints because I need to remove them when pulling the drive shaft.
7. Sway bar links. Bushings in them look bad.
Those are the bad things. I would like to keep everything pretty much stock with no lift.
Everything else seems tight.
I feel lucky she made the 3300mi trip back.. she said she had a steering wheel shake over 60 mph. And when I looked at the wear on the inside of her tires I knew there were some issues.
Thanks for any help.
Ed.

 

You don't have to remove u joints to get the driveshafts apart to do the center support bearing.
There's four bolts on the flanges (14mm I think) , plus one holding the flange to the shaft (32mm), plus two holding the center supports bearing to the frame (14mm I think). It just takes a little elbow grease and some hand tools to unbolt the 4 on the flanges. Then pry the two drive shafts apart. The 32mm bolt I'd use an impact on. Be sure to pay attention to how it all comes apart. There's a few washers I always have to double check to be sure I put back correctly . Then unbolt the bearing and slide it off. Sometimes it needs some hammering.

You seem to know your way around a truck, but just in case, don't forget to set the parking break . We had someone forget and run themselves over on here before

 

For budget shocks KYB

Here's a link to some poly steering rack bushings

 

We did a thread on this issue recently, your mileage may vary on OEM v. non-OEM:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-parts-corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

 

1: OEM only, good on you.
2 and 3: I would get 4 4600s and take the strut assembly to a shop and have them replace the shocks.
4: Energy suspension makes both poly and rubber bushings. Most recommend poly, some don't. I recommend.
5 and 6: Spicer on both. 5 is probably contributing to the shaking.
7: Suspension maxx makes regular length end links as well. High quality stuff. If not, mevotech or Moog would be fine.

Like ass_dog said, you don't have to remove the ujoints to drop the prop shaft. If you're doing the ujoints and the carrier bearing, I'd find a driveshaft shop near you that uses Spicer parts(most do) and just take the whole thing to them. They may be able to work on the double cardan joint as well.

 

Shake above 60 is classic tire balance problem. If you're on a budget, consider hitting Facebook Marketplace for some OEM take-offs from a 4runner or Tacoma that have 265/65/17 (assuming it's 17" wheels), just know you'll need to swap over the TPMS sensors. Then sell the leftover rims for $75/ea on FBM and make money back.

You should read this thread before you get started: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Regarding what is a FAIL or WIN with non-OEM: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-parts-corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

OEM LBJ with 8 fresh bolts should be on your list of things to swap, at 155k miles, you're overdue.

Shocks and such, you should really try to go with Bilstein 4600 with the OEM springs. KYB is another alternative if Bilstein is too spendy. DO NOT get Monroe or other brands, they'll handle horribly.

Rack bushings, poly from Energy Suspension, just make sure you lube all over with poly-safe grease (specifically) on any surface which will touch metal or they'll squeak like a SOB.

PLAY IS NORMAL IN THE CENTER SUPPORT/CARRIER BEARING. UP TO 1/4 - 3/4" IN ANY DIRECTION. As long as the rubbers are good, and there are no clear symptoms of carrier bearing failure, don't replace it. It's typically NEVER the carrier bearing when it comes to vibrations, it's more often u-joints.

If the driveline has never been greased, especially the slip yoke, YOU NEED TO GREASE IT, since that's the fastest way to kill your u-joints, cause vibrations and clunks at stop/go situations. Should be greased every 5k miles, basically every oil change or every other at worst.

I have some good 70k mile OEM swaybar links I can part with if you're on a budget.

 

All great information.
Thanks for the help.
Ed