Bad Engine Bearing

Getting there...

 

In other parts of the world the v35a specs all the way up to 10w40.
5w30 is a fine range of oil. In the US they seems to like the 0w20 to be in CAFE specs with fuel economy.

 

If I added 5W30 and it spun a bearing and they checked the oil, would it void the warranty?

 

5W-20 is spec'ed in the Tundra Owner's Manual. It must be swapped to 0W-20 on the next oil change.

@Tom976 - It is only spec'ed up to 10W-30, not 10W-40...

0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are called out for the LX 600 in foreign markets...

 

These two (5K OCI and 91/93 octane) are equally important. Less fuel dilution, less engine knocks.

 

Curious about that myself. Highly doubt these monkey wrenchers are doing oil analysis before deciding to cover one of these. Pretty much carte-blanch if a ‘22/early ‘23 spins a bearing now. After the 20K free change I’m going to re-assess. I see the new 4cyl Toyota cars are running 0-12W water.

 

It is interesting to see the LX 600 starting to have short block/main bearing failures considering it is tuned for 91 and it is "required"...

I do think we may be dealing with some LSPI...but hard to know without hard data...

 

Corolla has been on 0W-8 for a couple years now...

0W-8 was just actually "certified" for use in the US in Sept 2023...

 

Toyota does require a few things before proceeding with warranty work on a failed short block...it can take some time to get the ball rolling...

I was also made aware yesterday that the parts needed for these repairs are currently on backorder...so it might just be worse than originally thought...even for me...

 

ouch, going to be some unhappy people....

it sure would be nice if toyota would say something FFS, but we all know they won't. I don't blame the engineers on this site for staying in the weeds and not addressing anything as well to risk their job, plus even when @wedemmoez was nice enough to tell us some basic stuff, he had people being d-bags in PMs, etc, so thats another reason.

I said before, it would be awesome if we have a vetted small group that could interact with the toyota engineers in a private area, I bet that would be super useful to both parties, toyota would have access to die hard very knowledgeable owners and we could help with some of the real world problems to sort them out. It could even be a pay section, I would chip in for something like that. I just took a long survey on my Sienna they sent me, even that was so canned, you could't tell them the valuable stuff, just a bunch of way over structured check boxes. It seemed to guide the responses way too much just to use to justify things in the future the way the survey team wanted.

pipe dream though

 

For sure. This is not how business works.

 

big business anyway,

Im a small business owner, I take that shit serious

 

I've often wondered if LSPI was a contributing factor as LSPI can be caused by multiple things especially under the low RPM/high load/boost conditions that the V35A operates under certain conditions. One contributing factor engineers and oil chemists have come up with is the detergent packages in older oils, namely the calcium levels. Modern oils with Dexos 1 or the GF-6 rating should mitigate LSPI as far as oil is concerned, but oil contamination such as fuel dilution or soot content can still raise the probability of LSPI. Some manufacturers historically have tuned to over fuel momentarily as a quick bandaid fix in high throttle/low RPM situations to prevent pre igniton and cool combustion slightly, downside of that can be fuel dilution over time though as Honda found on the 1.5L turbo engines.

 

Same thing here, but maybe even shorter OCI, but running 91/94 oct (Canada) since new!

 

I did post to the first one already

 

I'm at 1400 miles. I already changed it at 1k and will again at 5k and every 5k afterwards. I've been running 89 octane though. I wish TX midgrade was 90.

 

Guess I'm old school. Did first OCI at 1000 miles, next at 5000 miles, next at 9500 miles (It was a warm day ) and last one at approx. 13500. All with Oil Filter rated at 99.9 % efficiency at 20 micros. My OCI cycle is once in spring and once in late fall coinciding with about 5000 miles. All documented with receipts. One thing I am careful with in the winter is driving to/from work allowing truck to completely warm up. Approximately 15 miles each way on country roads and short freeway. If I have a engine issue, its not going to be from abuse on maintenance concerns. I also purchased an extended warranty. It it breaks, Toyota will fix it. Life is too short to dwell on it. That said, I enjoy driving it and it's a solid vehicle. Time will tell on longevity.

 

I did oil changes at: 1K, 3K, & 5K.

After 5K, I switched to 5K OCIs...

 

Same. Errr. Actually 800 and 2k.

now every 3k to 5k.

 

So I was watching the Tinkerer's Adventure video on the Lexus where he was showing the wear and was wondering if 0W-20 was too thin for the engine based on wear on that.

Another thought was how much the stop-start function could play into this as well. If the engine shuts down and the oil is draining out all the time every stop/ start would be essentailly a cold start with 20 weight oil leaving minimal residue behind.

I have been checking out the Lake Speed videos as well- and also read the 540 Rat blog on oil stuff- not claiming to be an expert, however, it can be easy to spot trends sometimes...

Until I know I wont nuke my warrnty, I will continue with 0W-20 every 5k miles, and a Toyota filter, but I am thinking 5w-30 would be a good move- especially since the engine is spec-ed in foregin markets as you stated. (12/23 build date "standard" powertrain)

Thank you for all of your work on tracking these failures and helping us navigate them.

 

Switch to Red Line 0w20, it is quite a bit thicker than Toyota 0w20.

 

Yeah I changed out the "factory" oil at 1400 and went with Quaker State Full Synthetic 0w20 (RatRod review/ rating). I think 5w-30 would be much better though.

 

I just read through all 7 pages and like many here, I recently changed my oil early at 800 miles. With that said, I was a little shocked at how dirty the oil was with only 800 and some change on the odometer. What does that mean? Probably nothing but thought I would mention for those contemplating changing the oil early. I used 0W-20 per the manual but may consider transitioning to 5W-30 next oil change which I will do around 3k miles (at 1326 miles currently).

For what it's worth, I purchased an '18 and '22 Ford Raptor and both had significant issues. The '18 was very problematic with tranny and electrical issues. I thought I would try again in '22 and the build quality was much worse with even more issues. So, I thought I would purchase a '23 GMC AT4X and after 24 hours of ownership, I returned to the selling dealership as I noticed all 4 doors had paint peeling from the bottom edges (honestly, how many of us look at the bottom of doors when purchasing a new truck?). Because I am an idiot and really liked the interior/exterior of the AT4X, I then drove several hours to Vermont to purchase another one with the mindset of surely lightening can't strike twice. Sure enough, upon inspecting the vehicle before purchasing, it too was peeling paint. The dealer stated they would be happy to remove all 4 doors and repaint under warranty, and I said no thanks. Lastly, I got rid of my '19 Ram 1500 fairly quickly due to faulty camshaft lifters.

Bottom line, I feel that vehicle build quality has greatly diminished in the past 5-6 years with all manufacturers including almighty Toyota. Further, due to emission constraints and lack of quality personnel working at assembly plants (yes I said it), the result is vehicles built with lower tolerances and sub-par quality control. How in the heck does the GMC make it out of the Saltillo Mexico plant with paint peeling on the doors? It's no secret that US manufacturing facilities are struggling to find reliable and qualified employees who WANT to work (if you have a heartbeat, most places will hire you as they are desperate). Moreover, America has become VERY lazy, and the resulting poorly assembled products are the end result.

Sorry for the long post but simply wanted to add some insight. My 2-month-old Toyota TRD Pro has a rattling center console, rattling headliner, and tailgate misaligned. I hope I can fix these issues and really hope the dreaded bearing issue doesn't rear it's ugly head on my rig. But, I purchased the Tundra as I do feel it's the best 1/2 ton option right now with arguably the best manufacturer support if/when needed. However, I do not feel confident in my Tundra like I did my '11 Land Cruiser, '07 Lexus LX470, and '15 4Runner. Admittedly, after reading this post and others on the internet, I have considered trading (again) for a 200 series cruiser or even a 2.5 Tundra. Historically, part of what has always made me happy about owning a Toyota product has been the confident and secure feeling of owning a reliable vehicle regardless of the missing technology (change oil, basic maintenance, and drive for 300k miles....repeat). I no longer feel that way.

 

My 2 cents.
When I buy a new vehicle probably the last thing I worry about is the engine.
It's a new vehicle under warranty ! Why would anyone want to deviate from the 0W-20 shown on the engine and give the manufacturer any little reason to deny a claim ?
Too many variables here for a bad bearing leading to engine failure.
thinking over coffee. Its kicking in now.

Is it a
1) bad design....2)made bad.....3)assembled bad....... 4)lubrication bad.......... thats Four - there can be 24 combinations.

You can't control the first three.

**********
So Lubrication
Four things make Oil go Bad.
Friction, heat, contaminaton, oxidation - again four - Yada Yada

Every time you start your engine you introduce water and fuel into the Oil.
Its starts going bad (contamination), even when sitting (oxidation)

So Auto Stop Start which saves fuel - in the end ........ you tell me if this is a good thing.

Its all Ethanol Fuel now even 91-93 octane.
Ethanol fuel is hydroscopic - attracts water.
So this now introduces more phase separation between the Oil and Water in the Sump.
If you run 2 cycles engines. Regular 2 cycle Oil does not stick to Ethanol. Great.

Damn - $2.00 a Liter in Ontario -Almost $8 us gallon.

 

I didn't think about 3K, but I may do the same then.

I'm curious--in foreign markets where other viscosities are allowed per the manuals, do those vehicles lack anything on them for CARB? Or are they exactly the same as USA spec?

Another thing to note is the fairly higher-revving, but NA 5.0 V8 in my RC-F requires 5w-30 oil. That engine has titanium/forged upgrades, so I would think the Tundra engines are under more stress than that one with inferior parts.

 

I was very interested to see the comment about the foregin markets VS US spec. Waiting to find out too.

My concern with 0w20 would be the passages through the turbos and the heavier oil burning as it goes through- but if internationally the same engine runs 5w-30 it cant be that.

Also, my 1400mi change looked like it was some seriously dark oil.

 

Yes…

The LX 600 is other regions does not have the EVAP system found here in North America, on both the LX 600 & Tundra/Sequoia.

When it says those other weight oils can be used, it is talking about those that do not have the vacuum canister module…

 

Not up on the EVAP system, but does this have anything to do with oil lubercated parts/ engine componets that need oil? So essentially would heavier oil cause issues with this system?

 

No...

EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System aka Charcoal Canister

In other countries, some of the LX 600 do not have an EVAP pump...

If you happen to hear what sounds like an air pump when walking up to your Tundra, that is the canister pump module...

Outside of North America, there are vehicles that do not have the electric pump...

 

Ok that is what I had thought it was.

So 0w-20 is just a feel-good situation for the company/ CAFE standards. Would running 5w-30 citing international manuals make warrnty stuff tricky? No chance you have a link to some of the international manuals...

Thanks!