New 1st Gen owner 195k miles too much?

Finally bought a clean Black 2005 AC 4x4 SR5. I live in the rust belt so finding one clean like this was tough to find. Truck runs extremely smooth compared to my V6 Tacomas I've had over the years. Only "down side" is the higher mileage with 195k on the clock. Honestly, the truck doesn't drive like it has 195. Feels like it has 105. Oil changes look to have been kept up on quite well looking down into the crank case and under the oil cap looks clean.

I'm assuming these transmissions are sealed? I could not find the dip stick for it.

I plan on doing a full round house tune up for it as I don't know a great deal about its history.

Here are some photos after I cleaned her up a little.

 

195k is perfectly fine for these trucks. Even if some maintenance was ignored. They can take abuse.

Biggest issues is frame rust, timing belt, and lower ball joints.

Read @shifty` 's thread.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Read my constant warnings

 

Go to the sticky threads and read Shifty's post about 1st Gens. You should get an idea of what to look at and where to start. I bought an 05 DC back in December and I was able to verify the major maintenance items had been done prior to purchase. 195K is nothing if your truck has had the required maintenance done. Welcome to the forum. Pay attention to Shifty's post. What FirstGenVol said.

 

Million mile engine in that truck, 195 miles is great.

That radiator should be proactively swapped ASAP, only use DENSO brand, and don't buy the parts on scAmazon/fleaBay (use the DENSO website to get your part number, understanding double cab and regular/access cabs use diff't parts).

Inspect the timing belt ASAP by loosening one of the timing covers and inspecting. If any cracks, or if it looks remotely old, replace it, which is perfect time to replace the radiator.

And seriously, I know you said it's "clean", but inspect the shit out of that frame in all the usual spots. Yours is outside the recall/safety campaign window. Dealers and shady resellers are pros at hiding rust.

Verify 4WD now, or suffer later. Inspect the actuator vent hoses carefully, trim the ends if they're cracked or crusty.

And yeah, read the community input post I assembled and FGV linked above.

 

Welcome aboard! I hope 195k isn’t too much, I’ve got over 270k rn

 

Yeah, talk to this guy, 800k miles: https://www.tundras.com/threads/highest-mileage-1st-gen-tundra.133219/#post-3384481

Or this guy, 680k miles: https://www.tundras.com/threads/leaking-trans-and-engine-oil-pan-02-4-7.132454/#post-3366542

Both on original drivetrains. "The big three" can suck a bag of rotten chubs, their trucks will never see that kinda mileage on factory drivetrain.

 

Highest mileage 1st Gen. Thread? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Lol 195k

 

Yep, if you're coming from Tacoma's we're in a similar boat. I bought my 98 Tacoma at 189,000 miles. I've put 140,000 miles on it since, and the only time it "let me down" was when a wheel bearing went out and I actually needed a tow truck. I tow a 3,000 lb trailer with it all the time, along with a ton of stuff in the back. A lot of weight on those rear bearings, so I don't really blame the truck. Otherwise, the deepest anyone's been in the engine is me doing valve cover gaskets and a mechanic doing the timing belt/water pump.

I had no experience with these Tundras until a few weeks back. So I'm still getting a feel for how the engine sounds and feels, and getting used a transmission that has a mind of its own...I've always driven manuals. But at 225,000, the Tundra feels like an even newer truck than the Tacoma did at 189,000.

If I had to speculate, here's my take on why these Tundras are so long-lasting: Same generation as the first gen Tacoma. Toyota seemed to figure out a few very important things at this time. My V6 Tacoma has 330,000 miles on it, original engine, transmission, even original clutch. Anyone remember valve adjustments? I do. All my 4 cylinder Toyotas needed them ~ every 20,000 miles. The 3.0 V6 needed them, and I remember back in 2008 or so, it cost me $600! I did my own 4 cylinder adjustments but the shims on the V6 intimidated me...My Tacoma? Never had a valve adjustment. It just runs and runs. So these Tundras came out around the same time. Similar technology. But the V8 isn't working as hard. Could it be that these Tundras are even longer lasting than the Tacomas, almost entirely because they run at a few hundred less rpms all their life? Just doing that much less work? That's my initial thought after driving it for a while.

Things happen, but I expect to hit 300,000+ no problem if I keep the truck long enough.

I'll agree that while in the market for a new Tundra, looking for lower mileage makes sense (but not too low!). I was trying really hard to buy something in the 150-200,000 range. But once you own it and know it's good, 200,000+ and even 300,000+ isn't too big a deal.

 

They're over built. The motor could easily push out larger HP and Torque #'s but longevity is what Toyota had in mind.

 

Yea the mileage part was sort of click bait lol I come from a Toyota family. I've owned 5 Tacomas and also have a T100.

But yes, knowing how Tacomas can be, I thoroughly looked over the frame, very mild surface rust here or there consistent with age. Truck came from middle Virginia.

I did actuate 4WD and it engages immediately.

I will definitely be getting a lot done here in the coming month or 2. This is a dream truck of mine. I've been on the hunt for a while.

Timing kit
Plugs and wires
Trans drain and fill
Diff fluids replaced
New tires
New Rad

And basic bitch stuff like engine air filter and cabin filter.


I really appreciate all your replies.

 

Skip the coil packs (there are no traditional wires) when you do the plugs. Spend money on getting top quality NGK Iridium plugs instead, Toyota recommends NGK or Denso for replacements in the manual.

Watch out for knockoff plugs, scAmazon and fleaBay are peppered with them. Buy at Advance Auto, using a 15% off code ("RMN15" usually works) or whatever they offer to you in exchange for your email, sometimes up to 20% off. Inspect the coil pack tubes for substantial (i.e. not hairline, visibly open) cracks. Only replace w/OEM. If the boots/springs are toast, there's a kit for it, but that's unusual.

Like no plug wires, there is no cabin filter in these trucks.

/unsolicited advice

 

If those coil packs are original. When he goes to change out the plugs, he's gonna undoubtedly wind up having to change a couple of coil packs. Atleast that was my case.

I'd just plan on spending the $1k and getting new coil packs if you plan on doing the plugs.

 

Looks like a really clean example, nice find.

 

195k…

 

Nice purchase. Looks great. Welcome from another Rust Belter here in Pa..

 

This made me bust a gut laughing.
#truth!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptrmW51ed58​

 

Nice looking truck! No, your mileage isn't too high.

 

I'm about to make a large order over at yotashop, I've got the denso radiator, aisin timing kit, new rad cap in my basket. I'm assuming a thermostat is a "while you're at it" item with these like the 3.4s?

 

If you don't know how old your thermostat is and if you were looking right at it I'd replace it. I replaced my T-Stat when swapping my radiator and radiator hoses just because it was right there. Went with an OEM T-Stat.

Don't forget a gasket for it.

 

I'd check to see if you can find a deal on pink coolant while you're at it. I'd drain/replace all your fluids, brakes, PS, diff, it's even recommended to do some sort of drain and replace on the tranny.

 

Make sure the Thermostat dingly thing is at the top.

There are also 3 little coolant hoses that are accessible when you are doing the timing belt, I would replace them while in there. Only get OEM hoses.

 

Looks super sharp and extra clean - extra nice find - enjoy.

 

She's a bute, Nice find! Enjoy.
When she gets too many miles for you hit me up for a quick sale $$$

 

Nice truck.

Didn’t see it mentioned, but the brake fluid could stand to be changed out based on the dark color.

 

Just a small update for those who might be curious on it.

Dropped the trans fluid earlier, it was in great shape. Still very red. They seemed to have kept up on the fluid. Replaced with WS fluid and added 4oz of lube guard platinum.

Ball joint passenger is brand new. Driver looks old but doesn't appear to have any play.

Valve cover gasket leaks on both sides, looks like. Very mild smell of burning oil under the hood when running. One more thing to add on the list.

Cracked open the timing belt cover. Belt looks old but not cracked, I've been not driving it much at all until it goes in for that.

Parts came in from yotashop.com

Denso rad
New rad cap
Aisin timing kit
Thermostat
New drive belt
Rear diff fill plug as the one on there is pretty crusty.

Will buy new plugs here soon. New Falken Wildpeaks coming soon. Will grease the driveline and uh what else... oh and I replaced the tail gate life handle.

Hopefully I can get another 2-300k out of it!

 

Looks good! I had my tb replaced by dealer a few months ago. If they didn’t mention anything and it has new coolant would you alls till recommend changing out the rad if it doesn’t have any issues?

When doing plugs a long 6” extension with a swivel head will be all that’s needed for the hardest plug, driver side rear. Those plugs took literally about 25 minutes to replace, my coils looked good at 160k ymmv

 

I think it's good measure to replace the radiator, peace of mind. Toyota rads last a long long time but I have seen them go down.

 

I have a base model tundra 2006 with 296K miles on it. It is a 2WDR with an 8ft bed. Doesn't burn any oil. So if your truck doesn't use oil between oil changes and has no rust, then you have a gem. Keep driving it with pleasure. Good luck.