What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Tire out of balance. 100%. Chances are you need to have the tires re-balanced, road-force balanced. This is classic tire balance symptoms.

 

So only $41.00 work at the machine shop? Seems like there’s a discrepancy of $4,059.

 

4100

 

Pulled rear axle and took to machine shop for a reasonable price to press off/on bearing that was getting loud.

The retainers provided to the shop looking pristine came back like this. Have no idea how that could happen, like maybe it fell on the floor or something during install ....




Scratches/pitting top left can be felt but assuming any scratching however small that would be under the seal lip is unacceptable, so planning to ask for retainer to be heated off and another installed since need the truck back up and running ASAP and don't have time to wait for the SST by mail. Too picky or this is a problem right?

Hopefully new seal wouldn't be damaged from just the handfuls of spins to do the sharpie/grease test.

Placement isn't bad but probably could be pressed another 1/2 mm more...

Ordered 2nd bearing Friday proactively for other side, and plan to get the HF shop press and SST for that intall ... instead of relying on a shop again for this.

 

That’s what I was hoping it was. Looks like back to discount tire. I wonder if it’s the Baja boss AT’s that are hard to balance. They’re a pretty agressive tire for an AT

 

Guys at the Toy/Lex shop who mounted me up and balanced me out said all the Mickeys need road force balancing. And all the BFG KO tires too. You won't get balanced w/o it. They road force balanced my Baja Legend EXP and I still get an occasional little teeny tiny bit of shimmy.

 

Is there a way to upgrade from a 2 bolt to 4 bolt main?

Asking for a friend.

 

Yeah it's called a 1UZ. But it's not needed as I plan on a bout 12 to 14 pounds max.

 

Fair enough ...
You know @Mr.bee's beef with 2 bolt mains

 

Engine internals will be rated for 800hp, I'm looking 525 max. 485 to 500 is my goal. Work truck power. That and Chinese whistle boi noises lol

 

Who was asking about 13WLs in a starfish?

 

That's what I'm talking about a tight fitting starfish

 

I've heard or read somewhere that only the forged 16's will fit. That cast trash has to be bigger.

unless you let em rub for a bit.

 

Rubbing is racing #racecar

 

I was asking about them in these obscure stock 16”, but they were from 05-06 so they had to fit.
Anyone have two center caps for this wheel?? Hard part to find

 

Those are pretty nice wheels

 

It would probably be time to give the old throttle body a cleaning. Might help it idle a little better as well if the throttle plate catches any of that residue. I found it helpful on a lot of GM engines.

 

Did my plugs and oil yesterday. After running Seafoam for 500 miles, the oil looked pretty gross. Will probably do a short interval for this next change and run Seafoam again. Also looks like I have some seepage on the very rear passenger spark plug tube. So tubes along with the valve covers will be added to the list, though it's a low priority at this point.

Also my plugs were quite worn. Maybe originals? Idk.

 

Do you have a build thread for this? I would be interested to follow along.

 

Here's the PN's for the hose, grommet, pcv valve, clamps, and pcv valve cover for my 2001. I believe yours would be different due to the VVTI and secondary air injection.



These are the numbers for a 2005 (V8 AC 2WD, should be the same for 4wd) based on toyota parts now, which is a good reference.

 

Just a note to @Bed Tundy though - your 2005 won't use the grommet, it's thread-in. Thus, your part number is going to be different also. Your 'o5 will probably match my '06 with a thread-in unit. Part number here - there's only one digit diff'ce between thread-in and non-thread-in.

​

 

No not yet. But in the near-ish future. I have a few things that need fixed first

 

Isn't a build thread a thread of you fixing it?

 

Lol


It is a Toyota good sir, there are no repairs, only advanced maintenance.

 

Been having what felt like the ABS kick in randomly when coming to a stop with the wheel turned. Turns out the passenger side ABS sensor was loose; quickest fix i've done yet!

I also finally tracked down why my fog lights don't work. I thought it was originally due to the LED projector headlight mod, but even with stock bulbs they weren't working. No blown fuse, fog light relay was functional. When the switch was turned on, i couldn't hear the relay click. Hoping it was the switch and not a broken wire somewhere, i found this little nugget in the FSM:


Sure enough, no continuity between pin 10 & 11 when the switch was ON. Ordered a used one off ebay for $35. i can't stomach the near $200 toyota wants for a new one at the moment.

 

How long are those extended links I'm trying to put in the the same coil overs as you and feel like my new links aren't going to be long enough but haven't gotten that far yet

 

When your new switch arrives, pop the old one off and try to get to the guts of that switch. Maybe a good cleaning will get it back in working order and you'll have yourself a spare.

 

Excellent idea, I'll make sure to do that!

 

Thanks! That hose looks about right.

Thanks shifty, I have a new pcv and hose coming soon n the mail.

Things I did today, Got the new wood door inserts today and they popped right in. It does look ok without the center bezel, but not great. I’m going to need more wood. Fresh oil change after 200mile Seafoam, alignment is perfect, new Wix air, $5 magnetic oil plug because why not? Greased Zerks, and did the DIY paper clip zero point calibration for the VSC. Got rid of every abs code I had.

I had a shop check out the front suspension to make sure I’m not missing anything. Power steering has a tiny bit of play, boots throw a little grease but not much, however the driver LBJ has moderate 1/8” play. I thought this was super bad but my mechanic says I should be good for a few months until I lift and replace it. Leaving on a 500mile turkey hunt tomorrow, should I worry? I’ve seen the pictures

 

Extended are +1"

You should ultimately install extended links on any lift that's 1¼" or more.