Replacing brake pads myself. Got rear done, front is impossible

Help, if you can.

I've done brakes on other vehicles many times before. The fronts should be really easy on these trucks (mine is a 2016) since you just pop 2 pins out and slide the pads in and out.

So I am able to squeeze the pistons on the inside enough to shoe-horn the inner pad in, but the outside pistons are impossible. I can get them about halfway pushed in but no more.

And wow, it's also a struggle to keep them even (as you push one in the other pushes out) but using the old pad to exert force on both evenly, I'm able to do that.

It almost seems like the pads are too thick but I know that's not really the case here. What's the trick / what am I missing here?

 

Try inserting the old pads back in, then use a large pry bar between them to force the pistons back in place, that's how I usually do it. Good luck.

 

That's exactly what I did.

 

So you have the pistons all the way in and the pads are still not fitting?, or am I still not understanding.

 

Get a tool for the job:

$20 Spurtar Brake Caliper Press Tool, Brake Caliper Tool Spreader, 4 in 1 Universal Disc Brake Caliper Compression Tool Ratchet Piston Spreader Automotive Tools for Car Brake Repair Installation Blue

https://www.amazon.com/Caliper-Univ...bhqYc-UjjwVhf7-XuRTpruDS2ZR1bjhRoCxBYQAvD_BwE


I've used a c clamp with success just be careful to not damage anything. You can also bleed the caliper. Some Toyota calipers are known to freeze.

 

The pistons won't go all the way in. I get 2 of 4 all the way in. In my case, I forced the inside pair all the way in but the outside ones would only go halfway.

 

OK, try this. Remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and slowly try to push the outers in while keeping the inside secure somehow, go slow or the fluid may squirt out and make a mess.

 

This is a bad idea, but I’ve done it a couple times successfully. If the caliper is seized, disconnect the brake line so you can put it in a vise. Put some pressure on the seized side, then heat the outside of the caliper evenly as you can. Then apply more pressure with the vise. If it doesn’t move, let it sit and cool, repeat.

This can break things…so understand you may end up replacing your caliper.

 

The caliper is not seized. It's simply a matter of the pistons not all going in at one time.

 

Interesting, so they travel fully in and out, but when you push one in the other moves out?

 

Correct

 

Is this with the brake line disconnected? It sounds like the outflow of fluid is plugged.

 

No I didn't disconnect anything. You are probably right it does feel (seem) like the fluid has nowhere to go to. I did pop the cap off the reservoir but that made no difference.

 

Anytime I do brakes for the past 40+ years I always remove the master cylinder cover, replace it back but on top but to not lock it. The excess air will work it’s way out. Go slow so you do not make a mess at the master cylinder

 

disconnect the line and see if they go back correctly. Probably a good idea to flush the line before reconnecting it, there’s probably something in the line or caliper. You can do this with a bleeding tool, or start the truck with the line disconnected and pump the brakes (two ppl required). Make sure you keep the brake fluid topped up as you do this and bleed all the lines under pressure when done with the job.

 

Squeezing the caliper sends the old, moisture contaminated fluid back into the lines. It also can mess with the ABS module. Crack the bleeder screw when compressing the pistons. It relieves the pressure and also pushes the old contaminated brake fluid out. Replace the old pads with the new, then top off the reservoir with fresh fluid and do a quick bleed on the calipers to clear all of the old, green, moisture contaminated fluid out. The piston seals unfortunately cannot keep all of the moisture out and it will contaminate the fluid in the caliper over time. I bleed the calipers every time I do brakes. Brake fluid is really, really, really cheap. ABS modules are not.

 

I've reached the limit of my ability. Don't know anything about the bleeder or messing with fluid. Thanks anyway though.

 

not that hard. Jump on YouTube university and educate yourself. Need at least 2-3 trusted sources to move forward with anything new to me.

 

I understand but don't get overwhelmed so quickly You've just been bombarded with a lot of info
At least try the simple thing first
Open the bleeder screw and see if that does it for you not to be an ahole but if you don't know anything about bleeding brakes you probably shouldn't be working on them
Good luck you can do this

 

You're probably right I shouldn't be doing this. Not that it's right but I've replaced brake pads on many vehicles in the past and never had to do anything more than squeeze the piston. I've never messed with any bleeders. That won't work in this case evidently.

 

Is there something special about these brakes than others? I’ve done plenty of 4 piston setups and never have had to open bleeder screws or undo brake lines to compress the pistons. I just stick a small pry bar against the old pad and just push both sides back a little at a time until they are compressed. You could try putting the old pads back in, starting the truck and press the brakes to try and reset the pistons and then try compressing them again. They aren’t complicated.

 

I don't know but I can't get them in far enough to fit the pads.

 

Having a caliper push out when compressing the other is not unheard of. Loosen the master cyl cap under the hood and do one of the following:

Get 2 cheap C Clamps (any hardware store has them and two will be under $10) and compress both at the same time, get a tool as I linked above, or compress with the old pad still in, pushing on the middle so they both go in using a c clamp (preferred) or pry bar.

Opening the bleeders will make it easier, but not required.

 

. If pushing in without loosening the bleeder then remove master cylinder cap and watch for overflow..If you do try to loosen the bleeder be gentle so as not to snap it off.. Unusual that both outer pistons won't go all the way in.

 

Yes, use two C-clamps. I just changed all four on my 2018 yesterday. I put the caliper on a 5-gallon bucket and used two small c-clamps with the old brake pads to push both sides in at the same time. Once you release the C-clamps the pistons should stay flush. You'll need to wiggle the pads a little but there's room (if you have the correct pads). Good luck!

 

From the Bob's your uncle site explaining the idea behind this:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...fluid-into-the-abs-when-changing-pads.316611/

 

I've gotta 6" C clamp and use an old pad to push the pistons back in evenly. Has never let me down.

 

Were you able to get it squared away?

 

My next opportunity to work on it is Friday.

 

ooops - i just pushed the pistons in with C-clamps without bleeding/opening the screw. Worked well but hopefully i didnt mess anything up , guess we'll see