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Grease your drive shafts!

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Been-Dranking, Apr 6, 2024.

  1. Apr 6, 2024 at 10:34 AM
    #1
    Been-Dranking

    Been-Dranking [OP] New Member

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    02' Tundra 4WD. Purchased the truck relatively recently. Had the tell tale after deceleration clunk on occasion. Also the shift from park to any gear was rough after the shaft engaged. I cannot suggest this service more strongly! It drives about 3 times better. The shifting is much smoother and doesn't jerk after shifting. Feels incredible. The work wasn't too bad to complete on my own. I couldn't find a nipple though in the 2 pictured locations. Am I doing something wrong or is it possible this was an after market product put in the truck that doesn't have grease access? Also the 4 low won't engage or blink. 4 HI does just fine. Wondering if you guys were able to find the nipples this manual says there are. Thanks in advance!

    Screenshot_20240406_133039_Chrome.jpg
     
  2. Apr 6, 2024 at 11:31 AM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` In South Dakota Trouble ain't hard to find

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  3. Apr 6, 2024 at 11:40 AM
    #3
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Working remotely from the local pub

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    You may have to open up and clean out your 4wd actuator if it won’t go into 4wd low per the owners manual. Also, stupid question but you did rotate the driveshaft to see all angles?
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2024
  4. Apr 6, 2024 at 11:44 AM
    #4
    Been-Dranking

    Been-Dranking [OP] New Member

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    I found them boys. Jesus they are dirty! Gonna have to clean em up before getting grease in there!

    17124290032843606971715754209345.jpg
     
    Jack McCarthy likes this.
  5. Apr 6, 2024 at 11:53 AM
    #5
    whodatschrome

    whodatschrome New Member

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    North of North Plains, Oregon
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    lots of dents
    If a simple greasing made the clunking go away, i’d take a really close look at the U joints and slip joint. Either of those items might be already worn out and the grease is temporarily masking the clunking sound.

    As for the transfer case, you have to already be in DRIVE on order to shift into 4WD HIGH. Once you’re in 4WD HIGH, you must shift into NEUTRAL, then depress the 4WD LOW button. You also have to reverse those steps to get back into 2WD.
     
  6. Apr 6, 2024 at 12:58 PM
    #6
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Recovering mangler

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  7. Apr 6, 2024 at 2:06 PM
    #7
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba He must increase, but I must decrease - John 3:30

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    You did it wrong @Been-Dranking , you didn’t call us lazy sods!
     
  8. Apr 6, 2024 at 2:29 PM
    #8
    GXPaycheck

    GXPaycheck New Member

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    2WD guys: would if I could but I can't so I wont.
     
    Tundra2 likes this.
  9. Apr 6, 2024 at 2:33 PM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` In South Dakota Trouble ain't hard to find

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    You can, you just need to toss on some new zerk'd Dana/Spicer u-joints and enjoy the next couple hundo-K miles greasing to your heart's content, with no play/noise/vibration/squeaks
     
    Rsmallw2 likes this.
  10. Apr 6, 2024 at 2:39 PM
    #10
    Been-Dranking

    Been-Dranking [OP] New Member

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    Well it hasn't clunked again since but I don't know if it's truly gone. It was happening very intermittently. But the lurch forward, while the brake was depressed, after shifting gears is gone. It's much smoother and definitely makes feel like it's going to keep down unnecessary wear and tear.
     
  11. Apr 6, 2024 at 3:04 PM
    #11
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Working remotely from the local pub

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    IMG_0486.jpg
     
  12. Apr 7, 2024 at 11:39 AM
    #12
    badass03taco

    badass03taco New Member

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    1477703631954.jpg
     
    Jack McCarthy[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Apr 8, 2024 at 2:09 AM
    #13
    socomoby

    socomoby New Member

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    Gotta say, I feel a hell a lot better being able to grease now as a 2WD guy.
    I may have missed this but how many pumps of grease are y’all hitting each ziti with? 2 or 3 maybe?
     
    shifty` likes this.
  14. Apr 8, 2024 at 5:20 AM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` In South Dakota Trouble ain't hard to find

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    Same standard practice for any joint, follow the three C's:
    • Clean the zerk and area around it to avoid contamination/blockage.
    • Clamp onto zerk, pump until you see Clean grease
    • Clean up the excess old grease, I prefer to wipe that on any exposed steel areas where extra corrosion resistance is helpful.
     
    socomoby[QUOTED] likes this.

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