Request for help determining the rest of the connection points for new head unit

I am preparing to swap out the head unit on my 06 Tundra SR5. Through my research so far, both on the Almighty Internet and the EWDs, I have come up with locations for most of the connections I require. Two connections and the location of one connector remain unresolved. What I need is (1) a connection point to 12V in the cab before the ignition switch, (2) a location where I can connect the "Dimmer Control Wire", and (3) the location of connector "IJ4". I will continue to ferret out what I can, however, if the experience / expertise of someone can help me complete these remaining leads, I would be grateful.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

Wait ... you're not one of those assholes who cuts the factory harness when you can buy an adapter for less than $10, right? Surely, nobody wants to be that person. Most people around here hate people like that.

If you're using an adapter harness, as every sane, non-asshole human should, whether Metra, Scosche, or otherwise, LMK what part number you're using and what model head unit and I'll give you a full breakout.

If your truck has an OEM amp, which almost all double cabs do, you'll need a bypass harness for that too. Did you check if it has an amp, and if it's JBL or non-JBL?

 

Anyway, that aside, before you go any further, if you haven't already, check out the "Audio, audio upgrades and cameras..." section of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Knowing you have a double cab, you may be in for some surprises you weren't expecting.

 

You mean you're NOT supposed to cut factory harnesses?? Damn! (Of course I haven't and will not alter or damage a factory harness--but thanks for pointing that out for others' benefit.) I did more than one search on this site for wiring info for a project like this, but I didn't come across the Audio, audio upgrades and cameras... section. Thanks for pointing me in that direction--I will explore there.

Additional details: The head unit is a Kenwood DMX957XR. My truck does not have a JBL audio system. In addition on the left (see pic in earlier post), the package I bought from Crutchfield came with the 'Steering Wheel Control Interface' in the center of the pic below, and the

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

Metra 70-1761 adapter harness set on the right.

 

Ha! Glad you have a similar sense of humor.

So, something you need to know about the Axxess, since you've chosen Kenwood HU. You're likely going to need something extra to make it work correctly. More info here on the two options for our trucks and a link to the step you may need to make it work properly, but if you just want a direct link to Axxess' document explaining the special steps required check this: https://metra-static.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/ASWC-1_Technical_Document_100A.pdf

So you don't have JBL, did you verify behind the rear seat, there is in fact no OEM Fujitsu amp? This is pretty important point, since there's at least one additional harness you'll need if so, and you don't want to get halfway into the install and realize this point .

 

So, call me stupid (many have) but is not the Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface only needed when there are "controls" (i.e., buttons) on the steering wheel? My steering has...a horn. That's it.

Confirmed: no amp behind rear seat.

 

Yes, its sole purpose is to adapt steering wheel controls to your new head unit.

I'm gonna be a dick and ask, you checked behind the panel, right? We've had, let's say, a couple of folks pop up that must've thought the back plastics were part of the cab. Or something like that. We know that some of the double cabs came w/o amps, but it's pretty unusual. Amp would be mounted to the back wall of the cab, under those plastics.

 

No problem. I physically took off the panel behind the rear seat & checked, 5 minutes ago. (I'd had the panel off a while ago for another reason, but didn't remember if I saw anything in the lower right corner.) There are no electronics behind that plastic panel.

 

Lucky dog. And I assume based on your prior comment, you have no steering wheel controls?

 

No steering wheel controls, correct.

 

LMK if this makes sense. Any lines you don't see aren't used and should be taped aside. If you're not using butt splices or similar crimp-style connectors with proper crimpers (Klein 1005 style), or solder/heatshrink, then at least consider the former and tug-test each wire after crimp. Speakers I boxed off because they're like-to-like on coloring (as most of this adaptation will be)

You genuinely don't strike me as the twist-and-tape or wire nut kinda dude, so consider that info as more of a "random internet stranger who reads this" comment.

 

And I think it was linked in that other thread, but if not ... if you're planning on backup cam install also, this is worth a read: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1624#post-3199439

 

So, you should have everything you need plus some extras.
The

$64 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1 is for steering wheel controls, somebody sold you $110 worth of extra goodies you dont need if you dont have steering wheel controls.
That basic Toyota harness works
Just match the wire colors from the Toyota Harness to your Radio Harness. Literally match color for color and install and have a good time.

 

Almost forgot ... ultimately your joined harness should look like this in the end, though this isn't a Tundra, you get the point. White connectors are where the Metra connects into OEM stereo plugs. Black connector would be the Kenwood. Cut the last 1/2" off any wires you don't use so the sleeve doesn't slide off and touch conductor to metal, or leave an empty butt splice on it.

The one critique of this one I'm showing is, if you stagger your wiring lengths, so all the butt splices aren't side-by-side, it makes it hella easier to wrap your harness so it doesn't look like an anaconda that just ate a goat.

Oh, and one last warning: The radio won't power up unless you plug in the instrument climate control panel. So if you're the kinda guy who likes to test before you button up, make sure you plug in the harness that feeds the clock power. I do recommend testing before you reinstall the dash surround, and if OK, THEN wrap your wires.

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. I worked in telecom electronics for a couple of decades; put some of the first high capacity fiber optic systems down the east coast (circa 1984). Did many network install and computer hardware builds for small businesses just out of college. I've soldered a wire or two.

Interestingly, I was on Crutchfield.com, and could not come across the diag you show. Though your drawing doesn't state it, I assume that the connector you show is the larger one from the

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

Metra 70-1761 package. Correct?

BTW, thanks for the time you spent to walk me through this. Much appreciated. I'll email you a PBR.

 

You're in GA, you could probably hand deliver.

I hear you, I've done tons of LV and telecom, dating back when 66 and 110 blocks were on every telco/data closet backboard. While I can solder, I typically butt splice. Car audio industry standard, those who knows scotchloks/t-taps/etc. are fucking garbage and wire nuts/electrical tape is for hacks.

The diagram I showed you is something Crutchfield should've emailed you in the install kit after your order. But Crutchfield also includes links to all manuals on their product pages, like for that Metra harness page here, click this link to get the breakout.

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PS - if you look at the back of any Metra plastic package, you'll find the wiring breakout there too. BITD when the internet wasn't a thing, that's what we used at the shop.

 

Yup. Learned that quite a while ago. Rather than using barrel splices like the pic, I'll be soldering 2 position connectors for the + & - for each of the speaker wires (staggered to avoid the "anaconda aesthetic"). The unit will be able to be removed intact by disconnecting connectors should there be any reason.

 

You really have it easy. Doing a double din on a JBL system, keeping the factory amp, adding steering wheel controls, and backup camera system all behind the dash is a whole lot of stuff.

 

Not to start down a Monty Python's skit path... I actually had to wire one of these early in my 'career':

 

I would like to bypass the parking brake as Shifty shows above. I've looked at the PAC TR1--their site has no specifics on how to wire. The Axxess AX-TRIG1 has a similar 4-wire setup. Apparently Alpine heads (and maybe others) need that 4th wire. Then there's this guy who just grounds the PRK SW wire.

The Axxess AX-TRIG1 wiring is,
1. Connect the Black wire to chassis ground.
2. Connect the Blue/White wire to the aftermarket radios amplifier turn-on wire. <--- By what I read, this would go to the P. CONT on my Kenwood harness. Correct?
3. Connect the Green wire to the parking brake wire of the aftermarket radio.
4. Connect the Yellow/Black wire to the foot brake wire of the aftermarket radio (Alpine only).

I grant that I'm asking perhaps inanely obvious questions; I just want to do this once.

 

I grounded the parking brake wire (in my case it was green) to the head unit chassis.

 

Like @w666 said, there are a few ways to handle grounding out for p-brake bypass.

But yes on #2, if you're buying the little bypass adapters, P CONT is correct wire. DO NOT make the mistake of hooking it up to the power antenna lead. This video explains why. (I don't like other advice this guy gives in his other videos, but this is the best explanation I found to demonstrate why P CONT is correct but not ANT CONT, which are colored similarly, so be careful )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oODBf_NsKUw
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First: you guys are great. Thank you all. Shifty, that goes double for you (I might have to upgrade that email from PBR to Duvel).

 

your harness should look just like this when done

 

It does, with the exception that I have quick disconnects on all connections for the (hopefully never) eventuality that I need to remove it. Nice work.

 

If you have a double din which this harness is wired up for, the reverse wire has a disconnect. Everything else should be soldered hard except the remote wire. Normally I put a pigtail in the major connections like 12v ground accessory and remote if it’s a unit I know will get stuff added down the road. Here is another. You can see the short pigtail on red yellow black Ect. This makes it so you can tag into these down the road without hacking the harness up

 

Not sure to what "wire" you are referring.

 

That single one with the quick connect. For reverse wire on that harness. So you can unplug it if you gotta remove Radio and harness.

 

Not sure I can agree with the global nature of that statement. Just to be clear: I soldered quick disconnects for all connections like, for example, this one, which I used for my 4 speaker connections. Keeps polarity correct while offering "graceful" removal of the head if necessary.