General Supercharger Thread

I went from the TRD Air Filter to the Wix...*cough, this reminds me, I have a TRD filter in near perfect condition available...cough

 

$84 aFe 31-10146 Air Filter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ABOTUA?ie=UTF8

 

Well you might need it as back up though! I'd say keep it for a rainy day!

 

I'm assuming they're wrong on fitment?

 

I think the airbox is different on 2014+ models, but the Magnuson box is based on the 07-13 size filter. So it doesn't work on your truck stock, but it does work with the Magnuson box or a 07-13 intake.

 

Understood. Knew if you said it was the one, it would fit

 

All I know is it's what I bought since I just searched my Amazon orders hahaha

 

Well in the name of science I have one of each on the way from Amazon. I believe you, but I also already ordered the other one and Amazon wants to be a pita and not cancel. So I have both on the way and will re confirm what you’re saying.

 

I can also confirm 07-13 and magnuson airbox PN for AFE is

$84 31-10146 Air Filter

31-10146.

 

Question...whe at about 15 percent throttle does shifting from 3-4 happen immediately at operating temp. Could not remember. When opening up or under load it stays in 3rd then upshifts. Just messing with shifting and tcc. Didn't know if I set 4th too low.

 

Yes? Mine is almost always in 4th I feel like. Hell sometimes it'll even try to go for 5th or 6th. If it can make the shift and stay at 1500rpm it seems to always go for it. Though my transmission is weird at best so

 

Thanks. I couldn't remember and thought it was normal but wanted to confirm. Guess that happens when your changing it around so much.

 

Are you using HP? The Compare File feature is pretty handy for stuff like that. I used it a lot when I was messing with my shift tables to keep track of what I had changed from stock.

 

Yes. I was out at the store and thought I'd post for a quick answer before I got home. Lazy...I know.

 

Filter OTW - due in monday.
In the meantime, my clock spring may have sh*t the bed... just lost steering wheel electronic functions. Horn works, but no radio controls. Always something...

 

Seems every Toyota truck
I get to change out the ribbon cable. Fortunately they easy to change.

I've found no difference in reliability using the eBay knock off versions. I like paying $35 vs $200+.

 

Yup- sounds about right. Yeah I agree, bought the clock spring off Amazon for exactly $35. Another $20 for a steering wheel removal tool. If it takes longer than 15min to replace then I probably broke something else in the process

 

They’ve arrived ahead of schedule. Wife is driving the truck so can’t test right now but will try them both and confirm what we all know to be true

 

The pattern I'm seeing with the Harrop and Magnuson 2650 blowers is (at sea level) the 76/77.5mm pulleys are pushing a peak ~12psi, and consistent 10-11psi. The 4" Magnuson intake taps right on the 5V limit at red line, and 650cc injectors with boost reference are maxing out right at redline.

I know this has been talked about plenty before, but I've tuned a handful of trucks with this exact combo the last few weeks and they all act consistently the same.

I think I'd consider that the sweet spot. More boost than that (arguably) gets hairy. Larger injectors than that and you start running into quality issues and less options. Larger intake than that and same thing, start getting quality issues. And you're getting every ounce of performance out of that combination, everything is maxing out at the same time at redline so you're not spending money on parts that aren't getting fully used so there's some harmony to it. I think that's probably in the ~520whp/650bhp range.

Everyone I talk to that's the combination I've been recommending: 2650 blower, Magnuson 4" intake, 76/77.5mm pulley, and DW650 injectors. I think that's the money combo where your money is most effectively spent and the truck is happy, everything is a bolt on option, and good quality parts.

 

Could not agree more. Nailed it! I’ve found my happy stopping point with this setup. For the rare occasion the truck sees WOT/redline, I think it’s just right and is a winning combination. The intake gives the lowest IATs but still operates within the 5v, and it’s basically nearing the max safe power level without needing to install headers and larger/less plug and play injectors and fuel pumps. Best bang for the buck, and the most simplicity offering the peak performance for a stock engine.

 

Ok much to my surprise… read extreme sarcasm… sniv was right on the afe part number. It fits like a charm.
I am however a little annoyed at the dead space left on the edges in comparison to the k&n filter that I swapped out. Seems they’re leaving some airflow on the table…

 

Good info. I'm selling my supercharged single cab with a plan to supercharge my crewmax when it sells. I am looking to get more power without chasing a ton of mods and making it unreliable. Plan is a 2650 and now probably go straight to one of your pulleys and the dw650 injectors without even installing the other stuff.

 

Pics or it didn't happen..

 

Guy in Salt Lake City I met is supercharging his tundra, and then bought another one that's already supercharged (dude seems to buy tundras left and right). Yesterday I just bought 2x of the DW650s and AFR gauges to outfit both trucks that way plus pulleys.

 

That what im trying to do lol. Get enough power without breaking the bank with other mods and stay reliable. Im not chasing HP cause im not building a race monster lol

 

Alright y'all cleaning the MAF did not fix my warmed up idle issue. It's back after putting in around 80 miles. Once I hit 186 coolant temps idle fluctuates from 500 rpm to 1000 rpm. Looks like Idle Adapt Main spark ECT is set to 158 degrees. Looking at idle spark on datalog from 400 to 1000 rpm and base map, timing is about 2 degrees more then what the base is demanding, thinking over speed/under speed may be to blame but I'm an idiot and am not sure if that is directly the issue. Any suggestions welcome lol

 

Are you sure it’s not something as simple as a vacuum leak? I realize that sounds too easy and I may be speaking out of my hind quarters..

 

Yes sir that is what I was hoping. Checked out all lines, MAF seal, my plug on the intake tube since changed to boost referenced and all associated lines to blower and MAP sensor. Odd thing is cold start all is great. And after I write a tune no problems until I'm assuming KCL is learned up and miles are racked up it'll revert to this idle bounce, thus my reasoning that it may be a idle timing issue. But that's just my uneducated guess.

 

Nice! Ken at tenacity overland mentioned you the other day too when we were chatting and told me to buy one of your pulleys and laughed when I told him I already had one on my single cab.

 

What are your ambient air temps and IAT's reading?

Post #11 https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?84512-IAT-info