What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Well shit ... Got the backup camera wired and it isn't working. It knows I'm in reverse, because the screen changes to a black screen.
I tried changing the camera polarity from battery to ground on the head unit and that didn't work.

This is the one I got.

$80 Anina Tailgate Handle Backup Camera for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra Rear View Reverse Parking Assist Camera with Optional Guideline Tundra Factory Tailgate Handle Replacement W/26ft RCA Extension Cable

https://www.amazon.com/Anina-Tailgate-2000-2006-Tailgaters-Replacement/dp/B09TKTLLQ2
It's got two wires I don't know what they are for. They are not the ground, or the signal power, or the video wire. All those are already connected. The wires in question are these green and white ones. They have little plugs on the ends

 

Gentlemen.......... Its that kninda j.o.b.

 

I do x pattern then on the next one a sided to side

 

After 47 minutes, finally......VICTORY!!!!

 

hard times create strong men.

 

I was born strong, good German American stock

 

wonder if they're for some sorta aux switch. I tried to find an online manual, no luck.

 

Same. The paper manual is short, poorly translated crap.

 

Git fuckt ya cunt

 

IIRC the user manual says front to back like this. But you do x pattern like this on one rotation, and then next time side to side (left front> right front and left rear > right rear), or did you mean front to back (left front /rear swap & right front/rear swap)?

 

sounds like you are missing +12v or neg to camera

 

Maybe. I've got the red wire tied into reverse lights power wire, ground is bolted on the chassis, the other end of red is connected to the pioneer units reverse trigger wire. The yellow plug is plugged into the yellow video IN on the pioneer. I don't know what I'm missing. It seems like the two random green and white wires are for guide lines.

 

Was trying to install some coachbuilder shims to pickup the ride height. Camburg arms wouldn’t separate from the knuckle so went ahead and threw another 1/2” at the preload yielding 1 9/16” on the threads. Probably should have done this earlier cause I felt like the fox Coilovers were way too soft. Didn’t buy this setup, wouldn’t buy it, go ADS Racing shocks >.

 

I'm a little jelly of that bungie.

 

I'm pretty sure those are the same ones I have and they are a game changer. Never thought a bungee cord would excite me but these do.

https://www.theperfectbungee.com/products/adjust-a-strap-4-pack

They have sales often-FYI

 

Usually whatever you'd like it coated with short of bedliner. One place here will do epoxy, enamel, or powder coat.

 

My OEM boots on UBJs are compromised after 240K miles. So instead of rebooting bought new OEM UBJs to swap. Seeing all these UCAs with exposed UBJs. Isn't that a concern for lacking lube and inserting grime?

 

IMO these are superior if you’re willing to maintain them. I put 130k miles on my last uniballs from total chaos (way easier to work with if you have to unbolt the knuckle). They’re stronger and easy to lubricate and clean. I however did not purchase these. They were on the truck I bought and were never maintained. I’ll take a uniball over traditional ball joint any day of the week.

 

yes! The perfect bungee. These things are awesome they haven’t broken on me and they link together. Also for the AC guys one end in the rear door latch and throw the other inside the rear wheel well. Perfect length to hold the door wide open.

 

https://youtu.be/olhrPau4AIA?si=4mdx5ePjntTWLEgR

maybe he goes over something you missed?

edit: he talks about the little wires at the end of the video. They’re usually for mirror and camera lines? So I don’t see how they could be effecting why it’s not outputting an inage

 

No you got it

 

Driver side wanted to fuck around even harder. I dont play no shit, and it made me bleed.......

It cant spin if its welded to the table clamp.

 

@455h0le_dachshund looking into this see if there is a reverse camera plug. Not video out.

 

Would you go with 12 or 24 grit?

 

Sawzall with 12” carbide metal cutting blade.

 

Read on, young Grasshopper: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1624#post-3199439

 

I'm an idiot. I figured it out after checking everything over again. I had it plugged into the yellow video IN, instead of RC IN. RC= rear camera. Fuckin a.

 

Probably not just "bad powdercoat job".

Powdercoat doesn't create a mechanical bond with metal the same way paint does, ala self-etching primer. Powdercoat is just a skin wrapped around the metal, similar to what dunking it in plastidip would do, but a harder shell. Plastidip would actually be more rustproof than powdercoat, though! Think of it like using electricity to force plastic dust to cling to the metal, then you bake the plastic dust to make it melt on top of the metal. The only thing holding it in place until melting is electricity, and that melting action doesnt "bond" it to the metal, it just makes it a hard shell encapsulating the steel.

PC is still porous when thin, it can be thin anywhere, including at corners and seams, or anywhere it meets the edge of unfinished metal (such as with steel tubing, usually PC isn't sprayed inside). All it takes is one thin spot - OR a transition from PC to raw steel such as with tubing - to let water under the skin, where it stays trapped by the skin, and begins cultivating ferrous oxide. Or in your case, a little rubbing to thin the coating, or a thin spot where you meet a bubbly weld, or a thin spot at a corner and BOOM. You've got water sitting on top of the metal w/no way out, and metal rotting.

Powdercoat is a sloppy, dirty, inexpensive ends to a means. Paint will always be superior in every way, except cost. You can legitimately sandblast, use self-etch primer, or have your raw steel galvanized in a dunk tank, then painted, and your part will last an eon if properly cared for, far longer and safer than powdercoat.

Powdercoat is not the miracle solution everyone makes it out to be. It has its shortcomings, and people DO NOT talk about those enough. It pains me when I see posts like yours, or like the one guy on here whose roof rack was basically nothing left but a powdercoat shell, b/c the steel had rusted out inside that shell. I truly think it has an undeserved positive reputation. But I'll jump off my soapbox right quick.

 

Torn and seized are not the same. Bushings will become torn with age and abuse, that's the rubber part. They are 'seized' when the inner sleeve is married to the cam bolt, from rust and/or corrosion. You won't know they're seized until attempting to clock the cam for alignment, or trying to remove the cam bolts AKA LCA bolts, which is necessary to replace LCA's or LCA bushings, obviously. I recently replaced my bushings because they were torn, but lucky for me; not seized. The stories you'll read about people cutting them off with a sawzall - seized. I used a socket wrench. In your case, I'd plan on buying new cam bolts when you buy bushings or LCA's

 

This. I had my bumper and sliders professionally painted satin black that way I could go back discreetly with a rattle can. Not to mention rusting hardware that will leave rust anywhere it can. I'll pay to have it look nice the first time and if I know I can make it look professional out of a rattle can you can bet your ass I'm not paying someone to do it.