What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I was planning to just find the guys house and steal the gas door. Thanks for the heads up.

 

The clocking of LCA bushings sounds a bit strange. I wasn't even aware there was a specific orientation to them as they look the same no matter how it's rotated in the LCA. The only common sense thing is to torque them when the truck is sitting on the ground with its tires.

 

Nice catch. I totally missed that it didn't have the lock.

 

Anyone just swap the shoes and leave the original drums on? And if not terribly scored is it better to not turn them to keep thickness or turning them works out well and they don't tend to warp because they don't see as much action as the fronts even when properly adjusted? TIA

 

There's a guy on here who riveted the non locking door to the locking door internals. IMO it looked like ass, put it's been done.

 

I'd at least get them turned. Don't put new shoes/pads on old drums/rotors.

 

Learn something new everyday. Reading this thread I had no idea the truck needed to be on the ground when torqueing the lower control arms in. On past vehicles I've had to replace the arms and always did it with the wheel off. I currently have the lower arms off on my Tundra. Will make sure to torque them in with the truck on the ground. Thanks!

 

Ok, adjusting my alignment, and my rack bushings have less than 1/8" of wiggle. But there is a bit of movement. Is that normal, or should it be clamped tight?

 

Mine have about that much wiggle it seems after repair. I'm not sure if it's normal, I blew out the big circle one on the passenger side and had to replace it.

 

They tend to warp when the e-brake/parking brake seizes due to non-use and reusing it for the first time after a year or so. Those bell cranks love to seize up after putting the e-brake on and need to be pulled apart every few years and greased or replaced if you live where it snows. (I’m guessing it doesn’t happen as much in the warmer climates)

 

I knew to torque at ride height and understand why. And it totally makes sense to clock for progressives, was just unaware of it. If I woulda done poly bushings as originally planned it wouldn't have mattered, and if problems arise (and haven't LT'd yet) I'll go poly

yeah, no, there are actually tab markers on each bushing that indicates orientation, and to complicate things, the two bushings are not to be clocked the same. One goes horizontal and one vertical (with the marking tabs). Also good to know that they're not the same parts, front lower forward bushing and front lower rearward

 

The front and back lower control arm bushing difference is obvious but the ‘tab’ orientation is new to me. I’ve never heard it discussed before but I’ve never had to press in new bushings to worry about it.

 

Nor have I. I propose Jan 31st to be 'clocked bushing awareness day'.

 

Put a jack under the arm and load that corner, if you want to tighten with the wheel off.

Poly or rubber? Does the steering wheel play feel normal when driving?

It'll have some play as isn't solid mounted.

 

they're the OE rubbers, & has always felt normal. I knew it was there, and wasnt worried about it, but now that im thinking about the alignment, i thought i should ask.

 

Swapped in the new and working LED TBL. Things got a bit crispy








It was going real smooth like, and then the plastics exploded

 

Save the HMSL lens. Someone may want / need it

 

Dang atleast your’s didn’t have 3 holes above the bulbs. Mine did. It actually still does. YOLO

 

You running Halides in that thing? Maximum Carnage! New light looks sweet, Amazon special?

 

Oh it's cracked, but I can set it aside if someone wants it, some assembly required.

 

It looked clean in the pic. Just a thought. I take shifty's approach, never throw away good OEM parts.

 

My problem is the opposite where they fall out of adjustment even with backing up stops and parking brake use and need manual adjustments. Still on original shoes after 270k miles with 3 mm at lowest measurement.

 

Sure, its been like that for god knows how long, way way before i bought it. The passenger side cargo/ reverse light used to work, also the only one that didnt have a hole burned into it. Noticed it wasnt working about 2 weeks ago, forgot about it, remembered bought this
NSLUMO Led Third Brake Light...

$56 NSLUMO Led Third Brake Light Replacement for 2000-2006 To'yota Tundra Pickup Trucks Red LED Strobe Rear 3rd Brake Center High Mount Stop Lamp + White Cargo Light Kit Euro Smoked Lens

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DKP4GLW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy weather striping 3M tape

 

Upon further inspection the crack is just a pretty deep scratch. And could be reused. @TheBlackMomba @shifty` would be proud I salvaged an OEM part.

Also if anyone wants/ needs this the wiring harness would come with 45 shipped

 

I like those 15” aluminum wheels…

 

You would

 

Hey hey hey be nice to the special needs and visually impaird kids

 

If you only knew how many Toyotas are in his fleet...

 

@empty_lord has a lot of kids that need wheels

 

Hey just cuz his vision sucks doesnt mean he cant be loaded with yodas.