What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Plastic. Fucking plastic.

 

I genuinely feel that guy's pain. I spent a sizeable chunk of my life talking up Moog parts. The internet is full of old postings talking up Moog parts. Moog has been riding a wave generated from their former reputation, while selling shit parts they didn't even make at the same price. It's BS.

 

I said the exact same thing recently. My truck is the same and I agree it doesn't make sense. I'm not going to sweat it too much because I've replaced all the critical parts. I do need to replace my inner tie rods but I doubt they are making noise.

 

Sounds plausible. My gripe with these coilovers is the amount they settle to. The last time I had to raise them, I just started to go by the distance between the collar and cap. I think 1-1/4" is the max they give you, and I'm at 3/4.

Gonna be pissed if they settle again, and I have to crank it to 1" just to get back to 23".

 

Or some zipties to strap an adhesive or other type of mount securely.

Not good if multiple people are having the issue.

Most quality springs settle in the first 500-1000 miles and are fine after that. If it's still dropping, you may need to switch the springs out to a different brand (Eibach, swift, etc).

 

What spring rate you go with?
Do you have extra weight like armor and/or winch?

 

FGV is running on Icons, though. Will need to see if Pete ends up seeing similar on his, I guess. But I think Pete may've been clunking already.

My exit from work can't come quick enough. I'm jonesin' for that free time to pretty much do wtfever I want during the daytime hours while everyone else is working.

 

They only had 2716 miles on them. I did the uppers lowers ball joints and outter tie rods last year in May when I bought it. Along with all the steering and sway arm bushings. All the moog parts have failed. This wasnt preventative thus was rework

 

The less than 3000 mille moog shit parts

 

Still running my Moog uppers and lowers

edit: I lied / misremembered, they are Mevotech

 

The KSP UCA and the TRQ lower ball joints. Aside from needing an alignment litteraly a night and day difference. Its even better than it was when I did all this work last May when the Moog parts were new.

 

That's a good point. I do need to have more patience with this setup.

They're 700lb springs I think, maybe 650? I'll double check. No armor or winch.

 

Aluma Boss 2.0 with the red springs have 700lb screened onto the side of the spring.

 

I already called them, they blamed me, well tried to. Said I failed torque spec. So i toled them the Toyota torque specs right out the reoair manual they still deflected blame. They told me they must uave been damaged un shipoing and then blaned rockauto. Rockauto wouldnt replace them stating ibwas out of milage warentee..... Good ole circle talk

 

Can corroborate!

I'll set that camera up when I get it. This freaking noise is the endgame of my marvel universe.

 

Replaced my LBJ's with 100K miles on them. The original owner had them replaced at 90K under the recall. Went pretty smooth until one bolt on the left side seemed to be threaded and kept spinning and snapped. I put another one in with some locktite blue and got it to 56 ft lbs (spec is 59). So my question is would you leave it be or take it out and helicoil? The weird thing is the same thing almost happened on the passenger side - started to thread so I stopped this time before it snapped but when I pulled it out you can see it was stretching and would have done the same. I put one of the old ones in as a temp fix and it got to 59 ft lbs no proble. Maybe the additional friction of the rust and corrosion? My second question is, why is this happening?

 

I always run a nylon brush on a drill with some break clean on threaded rusty holes. It helps out a lot

 

Wait … where’d you get the bolts? And are you sure they’re the right length, since some vary? They didn’t snap because you bottomed out, because they’re too long, did they?

No clue why it’s happening unless you truly didn’t have the BJ lined up on all four holes or the bolts were too long? On OEM LBJ (you’d hafta be fucking nuts to use anything other than OEM), I believe they all come with one of four holes having an insert, which helps with alignment. I typically (and did so today while replacing my LBJ) hand-thread my first bolt on that one bolt hole 2-3 full turns, then repeat on the bolt hole diagonal from there. Then the final two, then snug ‘til hand tight, then tighten firmly in criss-cross pattern, then torque to spec.

And Helicoil what exactly? I’m confused. If anything, if you think you cross threaded the LBJ, I’d pull it out and chase the threads starting from the ball side (opposite side the bolt normally enters) with a tap&die set. I would’ve done this immediately after.

 

keep me updated on these. I’ve seen them on other trucks and they seem to be pretty good build quality for the price. They’re on the list of things to get

 

I also had the same problem. I broke two. I think it's the rubber boot protecting it that throws off my torque wrench.

That said, you've got the wrong torque spec. Check this thread. It should be 37.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/

 

those bolts look like the 'black' bolts i just bought and call for 37 lb.ft.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/

 

do the older FGT use the 14mm/washer for the LBJ?? Cause I’m 90% sure mine are 17mm flap bolts. (I just did the bolts like 3 weeks ago and can’t even remember I do know they’re the larger of the 2)

I may even have a set of OEM 14mm laying around cause I mis-ordered from flea-bay learned my lesson and just went through a dealership/vin#. Let me know if you need them and I’ll scrounge around the garage

 

That info is wrong also. @NickB_01TRD has 48ft lb for my year, but the correct torque is 59ft lb. There is a typo in the FSM, one page says 48, all other pages say 59.

 

Yea, mine are 14mm.

 

jinx!

 

I was just going to say what @FirstGenVol said. The black bolts only need to be torqued to 37ftlbs. They reach the same preload as the silver bolts much sooner.

Making sure you have clean threads is a must, too. Could have old thread locker and other gunk in there.

 

Not 100% sure, but one of the earlier year guys above may be able to confirm. The LBJ thread is a p good resource for that stuff.

 

Yeah that may be right for yours, but not for my 02. It's 37 if you're using the black bolts.

 

I only wrote my comment so I could tag Nick to clean up his specs

and to that point I should go hunt down everywhere I’ve posted pics of the FSM suspension torque specs to make sure I mention it’s for 05-06, since there’s so much variation.

 

I am not gonna research into something I can put behind me for another 50k miles.