What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186048301023?ssspo=h1SFcC95T5K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4lonVuiYRuy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
this one is out of stock but anything like this one basically, I like white but they got a blue one out there too

 

Hahahaha-
they only way to not spend money on mods you didn't know existed or wanted is to stay off this site.

 

Daily Driver...

 

Made a smoke machine for checking bad vacuum lines. The attached pic is with just a small piece of incense burning. You get more with more pieces. Going to test it out soon

https://youtu.be/K2JgcUVgPc0?si=L376IOUYB8EC5yUm

 

OK ... Wait a minute! That's fun right there, and smells good too.
I never expected to find (on Tundras.com) a way to red-neck diagnose my 1977 Corvette vacuum operated headlight doors up/down problems. I didn't want to convert to electric and, perhaps, won't need to. Building and installing a 1970 LT-1 engine with solid lifters and no vacuum has introduced an issue here, although the loping idle of the potent small block is worth it!

 

I used it today and found 2 vacuum hose leaks in the EVAP system on my daughters 2003 Camry SE. It was the reason I made It to begin with. Going to use it on my neighbors Avalanche next weekend

 

Time to apply Fluid Film Black so I lifted it and power washed everything. I'll let it dry overnight before applying. Also double-checked the spacers after that recent horror story.



I dropped the spare which revealed my shameful wiring from all my different hacks. I wrapped and zip-tied everything neatly. Before/after:




Hey has anyone figured out a better way to drop the spare? I hate that stupid long key thing. Anyone replaced it with an electric motor?

Also should the spare be stored valve up or down?

 

Factory is usually valve up. Way back in my tire shop days, we would put them away valve down to allow access to top off air.

My spare is valve down on my tundra now, 3 years, no issues. I should probably drop mine to grease the mechanism.

 

I removed my spare from under my bed for wheeling purposes, but I used to use a 3/8 impact to lower it up and down since the 3/8 anvil fit well inside the metal rod- but using an actual drill would be a better idea

 

I heard 3/8" tip of a very long extension works in older Toyota 4x4's. Peeked in the dark w/ a flashlight... receptacle looks like torx or something. But I don't see that in my spare / jack tool bag. Is something missing, perhaps?

 

Sold her last Saturday. Off to a new owner who's going to fix her up and enjoy all the other work I put in. Glad she'll be back on the road one day instead of being parted out.

 

You probably need this. I found out the hard way and ended up removing the lock. Genuine Toyota Spare Tire Lock PT276-34071 | eBay

 

Thank you sir.

 

on my list, just having got around to it because i have no where to put them once they are off. Boat, 4 wheeler and a plethora of mountain bikes have overtaken the garage for the winter.

Thinking I am going to post them and see what the market demand is. I tried to give them away to two tundra owners I know, there was zero interest!

 

YUP... It's MIA from my kit. I'd double like your post if I could.

$46 PT276-34071 Spare Tire Lock for Select Tacoma and Tundra Models, Silver

PT276-34071 - Spare lock key.

Seems a silly place for a LOCK! Last thing I'd want to fight with when there's a blowout.

 

yeah, you need the lock key, then you can put a 3/8s into that, I lost my key as well lol, went to the dealer and borrowed theirs to drop my tire; apparently you can remove the security key on the tire winch side, but I haven't tried since I unbolted mine

 

Dropped her off at the shop for a rear main seal leak repair and a leaking transfer case repair….$2800….gut punch

 

I tossed mine in the trash.

 

I filled up with cheap 2.33/gallon gas in Ohio.

 

I posted them for sale on marketplace locally they were gone in a day for like 40 bucks, they sounded like rainsticks with all the rust inside flaking off. Good riddance and I guess my seat will tear sooner now?

 

Installed the TRD anti-sway bar since the truck was up and wheels off. Could be done with wheels on and on the ground but it was really easy this way, so maybe plan this install when you're doing the rear brakes.



The only hard part was removing the bolts from the factory hitch. I applied Deep Creep daily for the last 4 days but I still had to hammer it with the 1/2" impact for 30 seconds or so.

Up next I gotta do Fluid Film which is super un-fun hence my putting it off every day.

 

The hitch bolts gave me momentary pain, then I drove it to local mechanic who had them off in seconds. Charged me $5 each. I had a handheld battery impact and 3/4 wrench and the front bolts would not budge.

I need to rust proof my frame. Luckily, a rent-a-lift type garage opened up this fall so it will be easy to do.

 

I think I just hit the hitch bolts with a breaker. I bought a 1/2" breaker from HF that has served me well for more than 10 years

 

I’d cry tears of joy for those prices out here in the Bay Area lol

 

Got a link to swap out the gauge cluster to white? Looks awesome .

 

Yup! I used this thread to do mine.

 

@PhotoNerd Great job on the work. Just wanting to know if that is RaceDeck flooring on you floor. If so, how do you like it as I am looking at going with them for my garage floor.

 

I got a leaky TC. How bad was yours? and where was it leaking from?

 

I love it! That FreeFlow XL lets water drain through so I was able to power wash the frame indoors and the flooring never became slippery. You'd need a pad under a regular jack but the QuickJacks work great.

Dropped screws don't bounce away, they get trapped, which is nice. Small screws can slip through, which is a pain.

Anyway I finished my Fluid Film Black application today. Here's a before, during (applying Corroseal to reverse the surface rust) and after Fluid Film of the spare.





Suspension, but I did this to the entire frame on the underside:




I have the race deck charred oak in the other garage bay which looks nice and doesn't absorb fluids.

 

@PhotoNerd Awesome. I am in the debating process of which one to get. They did send me a couple of samples when I made the inquiry. The entry level seems very slippery. Great photo's love the Porsche and the floor.