System and install ?s - anything you would do different?

A few questions on systems and installation.

1. Will a higher watt amp work less, stay cooler or be better?
I want more quality than loud and I am sure about anything will be better than factory. I am looking at 5 channel amps and wondering in say a 100wX4 would be better than a 50wx4? Is spending more on an amp get better quality and worth the extra $$?

2.Do I need to run new speaker or amp wires or should I?
I am looking at mostly plug and play systems and replacing the stock amp. Will the plug and play in / out adaptors be ok or should I do away with them while at it.

3. Is tuning with a oscope much better and precise than a volt meter or just easier.
Will it make a huge difference. I have access to a real full size scope at work! I take it needs to be done through my system? Otherwise why dont the amp companies pre-tune them on a bench?

4.What else?
Is there anything you would do differently or would like to re-do on your system.
Any pitfalls, regrets, or things to look out for or add if you could. A DSP, filters, full door mats, tweeters, bigger, better anything?

Thank you

 

If you want good sound, more power always helps. Power adds not just volume, but even at lower levels it adds control. The more control over the speaker, the better the sound reproduction. Match the power with the speaker rating for RMS. Digital or Class D amplifiers are more efficient and will not work as hard as old school analog amps. My son’s 2000W digital amp never even feels warm. And he’s driving 2 JL 12s at 2ohms, and 4 sets of coaxials at 4 ohms.

 

The key to amps is having enough power. You don't want an amp that is too small. That reminds me that I have a couple of amps that I need to sell since recently upgrading.

 

@IowaGuy
1. Keeping the answer simple, it will be negligable...just size up your amp a little so you aren't runnign it full tilt. My oponion, "buy once cry once" Dont need to take out a loan against your house, but stay away from the low end stuff.

2. Factory wiring is pretty small, but if you are only pushing 50w per door you are fine. Its a bit of a pain in the butt to run new wires, so i would avoid it. Try not to think about the "Plug n Play" factor. There are wiring harnesses that make it so you dont have to clip your factory plug off, but you will need to run a power wire for from your battery to your amp. Make sure your power and ground are OFC, 4 gauge would give you some headroom, but could probably get away with 8.

3. I did a writeup on how to set your gains with a osciliscope:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/using-an-oscilloscope-to-set-your-gains-for-around-50.96649/
If you have the means, definately tune it. You will know your max volume you can safely push before clip. Some amplifiers have a distortion sensor and an indicator light keep turning up until it comes on.

4. 100% add sound deadening in the doors. I have speaker cups and foam rings, not sure they really did much other than potentially keeping water away. I'd recomend putting a set of components in the front doors and coax in the rears. You can do components in the rear doors, but i find that the tweeters location in the door panel are up higher than i'd like and puts a little bit too much high pitched sound near the back of my head.
You dont need a dsp unless you are going with active components. What head unit are you using...if you can, replace it while you are gutting everything.

Be prepared, you will be chasing the weak points until you end up replacing just about everything.

 

there are sooooo many theories to follow.....

my plan was to slightly upgrade the horrible stock system. I worked in car audio and competed in SQ in the 90s. lets just say i fell back in HARD.... I've spent over $4000 and am still experimenting. i now want to do an "everyday low key/low budget SQ" theory. my Civic that i competed with in the 90s kinda followed this and was amazing.....

I'm wanting to test the wideband in the dash corners with a well matched 6.5 or 8 in the front doors. possibly eliminate the re doors as i don't think it does that much for staging and i rarely have rear seat passengers. if i did 6.5s in the front doors MAYBE consider an 8 midbass in the rear doors.... maybe..... this mixed with 1 10(or12) or maybe 2 kick ass 8" woofers behind the backseat....

of course the weakest link in the stock system is the head unit.... and of course it's pretty much the biggest expense.....

amps here's where i'm a weirdo compared to most of these guys...... I LOVE Class G/H amps.... they are the perfect combination of theories of A/B meets D..... right now my whole truck is ran off an Arc Audio KS900.6..... but is going to be changed for a KS300.4 and KS600.2 for more power.....


stock speaker wiring is ok if you are staying with drivers of about 60watts or less maybe 75......

one big thing i'll echo is sound deadening....... it will be some of the best money you will spend..... doors inside and out..... floors..... back walls.... roof..... anywhere you feel you can comfortably gets some in.... the more the merrier.....