General Supercharger Thread

I'm curious if there was a design change at some point? I've read from others that report similarly to you, but after tearing mine a part to see how it worked, there is just no way mine could have ever worked properly.

 

Same here for the pcv can.

 

Mine too, so much crap it often clogs the drain valve at the bottom, so I still have to unscrew it to empty it. The PCV can caught a fair amount before I was supercharged and running 0w-20 and after supercharged running 5w-30. The crank case can never caught a drop, so I removed it.

 

What remedy have you found? A different brand setup?

 

I need to come up with a more permanent solution, but for now I've removed the plate & plug, then put a Scotchbrite stainless steel scrubber in each can. I don't know if it's working well, but I can say it's working.

 

This is an interesting find. They discontinued the old cans and moved to a new design. Which version do you have? Looking forward to seeing the write up.

 

Same here. I'm on the old can design.

 

I've had a new style PCV can for the past 3K, the dip stick is still clean and doesn't appear to be collecting anything.

 

There’s a drain valve?!
I’m only running the PCV can.

 

The crank case side can being dry is pretty consistent with what I've seen on these forums, blown and NA.

 

Yes I believe it has a little bit. I’ll have a better answer in a couple thousand more miles.

 

You can add a drain kit to the cans. I just unscrew and dump them myself.

https://www.radiumauto.com/Catch-Can-Petcock-Drain-Kit-P367.aspx

 

Ok gotcha. I don’t have that. I just unscrew it, take a quick sniff and taste then dump it.

 

They sell an add-on drain valve with a bit of hose and a barbed fitting for the bottom where the plug goes. It gets easily clogged with the oily cottage cheese that accumulates in mine.

 

Yeah, I wasn't sure whether having a SC would make a difference, and I knew I wanted to get one eventually back when I bought the dual can setup in 2018. Most people on this forum ridiculed the idea of installing a single catch can back when I asked about it...

 

I must have the new design. What a shame, as the machining and materials are great! Just terrible execution. They should have left it alone.

Here are my findings:





This photo identifies two things: 1) The clearance available for incoming gasses to bypass the float ball, if it were 2) not possible for the gasses to be drawn through the can as there is only one small opening, incapable of providing a path for the gasses to follow into and out of the can.






This photo demonstrates the immediate path the gasses are able to take, completely bypassing the can. Consider the clearance around the float ball, the plug below the exhaust port, and the window bridging the ports.

 

I'm pretty sure that is the new version since it has the overflow valve. Makes sense why those are seeing that problem with the tear down pics you posted.

 

We live and learn. Fuck the haters.

The built in system is pretty good if it is dry blown. There are some diagrams floating around showing how the integrated system works.

 

Here’s mine.

 

You are not alone.

20k miles, no schmeg.

 

and I think mine burns off cuz it’s so damn hot here in Houston

 

Interesting - how long ago did you purchase yours? I'm really curious what a working RE catch can looks like, being that ours are different from each other.

If I had your catch can, I'd keep the condensate screen off and throw in a stainless Scotch-Brite scrubber. If it worked for mine I'd imagine it would work quite well for yours.

I've been considering picking up this catch can to replace the Tundra's. It has been hands down the best catch can I've ever used. It also comes with a stainless ball-valve drain, the way Radium's should have come in the first place. All it would need is a custom bracket, as the supplied bracket is for a SW20 MR2.

 

I installed a $25 Amazon special PCV catch can that appears to be working well. At 5k had about a 1/2 inch of oily gunk. Running 5w30 for winter.

 

Purchased mine around 8/22.

 

I like the design of that can. Wondering if going with Prospeed’s version which is vent to atmosphere is a better option than what we have?

 

I believe @reywcms stated if you live in a wet climate like WA OR the vent to atmosphere will have excess moisture accumulation. In valve covers.

 

This is correct! I went back to sealed setup

 

I Initially installed it, then the dealership reinstalled it when the engine was replaced. I've gone through just about every other connection - so, maybe I need to take a close look at this interface.

Are there other components in the air/fuel systems that could be the source of this problem? (fuel going full rich right after a throttle, followed by a full lean... then stabilizing).

 

Do you have any O2 codes? Sometimes a secondary will command over a primary if it's out of range. But you'd most likely have a code.