2006 Tundra Crank No Start

Hello, Im a new member, just bought my first Tundra, working on it in Automotive Class right now, Im a couple semesters in.
Bought this 2006 with a Timing Belt Issue from the seller for $2,000
I started out and replaced the timing belt and battery, needed a serpentine belt too had a hole in it, new idler pulley, new water pump that came with a Gates Timing Belt Kit
Tried to turn it over and no fuel at the rail at all or from the pump
Dropped the Tank then bench tested the pump, pump works fine with B+ to Blue Wire and Neg to White and Black Wire
There's only 4 connections on the pump opposed to videos I've seen having 5 connections.
Tested the Relay, nothing at the relay but I have good relays. I'm not getting a click at the relay. Tested the EFI 1 amp and EFI Relay
I jumped over the Resistor and there the test light fires on both wires when Cranking
Jumped over the ECM, the Red and Green Wire signal that responds with the Relay isn't firing
Opened up the driver door and tested the Blue and Black that go to Fuel Pump, one lights up when cranking and one does not, theres two blue and black wires, one has dots on it. One goes to the Charcoal Canister that fires up the other goes to the Fuel pump that does not fire up.

Saw a diagram on this Forum, according to Primary Circuit when the engine cranks the current flows from the STAR of the ECM (STA Signal) then when the Crank Signal are input to the ECM the Tr1 is turned on in the ECM (not sure what that is) current then flows to the coil of the Circuit Opening Relay the relay switches on (I've heard my C/OPN relay switch on) power is supplied to the fuel pump after this but not in my case. I have 4 different fuel pump relays all not working, pulled 2 off of a sequioa. I have a sequioa available to pull parts from. but I'm lost here working through this diagnosis

I've done an ECM reset, might do once again, I'm going to put it all back together and start fresh coz I've lost myself even looking at it. My teachers like old school, said I should just run a wire to the pump if its cranking like that lol, theres no fuel pressure and i've read that the ECM wont respond if there isnt fuel pressure so I'm toying with that to see what it does if it kicks on the circuit.

Thanks for looking, I'll be sure to respond with results and updates.

 

I assume you have the 2UZ-FE/V8 based on the cab and drivetrain, if not, LMK. Note it's an interference engine (low, but interference). i.e. If timing belt snaps or jumps at above-idle RPM, the engine may be a boat anchor.

So First...

Before you go any further, if not already done, compression test. Is it OK?

Also, the diagram you looked at - it was possibly from a 2003. Look at the 4th or 5th paragraph on this page, there's a bunch of links, one is to the FSM (service manual). That's where you should look into the circuit. Searching it for "c.opn" may be your best best to find the info quicker.

The rest of this may or may not help.

I'm sure you did, but just asking ... you checked fuses, right? Both in the dash, and in the engine bay.

Second ...

You'd need a good crank position sensor for the pump to continue running, and it's something that often gets mis-routed and nicked when doing the timing belt. You'll wanna confirm the harness is intact.

Third ...

Some double cabs have immobilizer in the BCM, and require a chipped key; is yours one of them? Do you have an alternate key? Is the key you're using chipped? That would prevent cranking. You may find codes stored with a code reader to indicate if immob was tripped.

Fourth ...

Some of these trucks came with 'upgrade' alarm systems from the dealer (dealer installed) despite having keyless access etc. It was a nice $1k-2k mark-up for the dealer on a $50 part. They often butchered wiring in the process; it required them tapping into the ignition/start circuit. They typically used those shitty scotch-lock t-tap things that mangle wire and are only for people who don't know wtf they're doing IMO (yes, I'm an asshole). Did you visually inspect under the driver dash and behind the driver kick panel for any signs of spliced wiring, mystery black boxes, etc.

Last ...

I'd be focusing on why you're not getting power to the fuel pump relay. I'd suspect fuses first. Could be bad ECM. As you'll see in the "this page" link I gave above above (search that page for the phrase "water leaks"), both the ECM (behind glove box) and the in-dash fuse panel are known to catch water leaks from the windshield or a-pillar and corrode. You wouldn't be the first no-start condition where the ECU is at fault. www.fs1inc.com is a great place to get used, refurbished, high quality ECM replacements - the part number is on the face of the ECM.

That's about all I got for you OTOH.

 

Hello, I appreciate and thank you for the reply, sorry I’ve been busy w holidays and kids still haven’t gotten it started haven’t gotten much further in the diagnosis either

so yes it is an Interference Engine, I recognized that upon purchase and requested seller not to crank on it for any reason

the original issue was fuel pump they said and they had a mechanic look and they said it needed a new timing belt

I went ahead with buying it coz the sequoia has a v8 4.7 if necessary swap

I dove into the timing belt right away, it looked to be time’d perfect with just cracks on the belt, all the marks lined up, no signs of jumping or injuring anything within the engine

upon crank, I hear good compression but I haven’t gotten a good baseline on a compression tests yet

upon no fuel delivery and no power at the PCM @pin FPR, I’m lead to believe there is a bigger circuitry problem

I took out the PCM noticed some yellowish staining on the PCM in the larger silver sectors of the computer chip, I went ahead and ordered one at the site you suggested with some scholarship cash to move it along

I did notice, once key is turned over, I’m unable to put into gear, wanting to put it into neutral, I ordered a brake switch for it but in turn, I made a mountain of a molehill dinking with it because I snapped off the rusted Manual Valve Lever Nut, now I’m going to order one from Toyota. It in lines with the Cable and the Safety Neutral Switch so that’s apart of this adventure now too

I’ve begun backtracking everything and I’m going to look at the Blue Wire and all of its Contact Points that’s goes straight to the Fuel Pump, also the Red and Green Wire that goes to the PCM.

I replaced Crank Sensor, but did notice I don’t have Voltage at the Crank Sensor yet it still Cranks, I inspected the wire as it appears to be fine but I’m not getting power there neither

so on Monday I’m going to start tracing the wires back to the PCM from the crank sensor too, might tell me faster, everything looks great though all the way to the pcm outside and inside the firewall

I want to check the ignition switch

searching through the wires, all of the wires have nothing tall tell, not even a looseness on the pins like I’ve seen before.

I might just continue being a part changer at the moment because the wiring seems totally fine

also previous owner is sending me keys he found, but on the Scan Tool I’ve been able to clear all other keys other than the one I have, the only transponder is to the door locks

I will continue and update, thanks for reading

 

Wire chasing for the win!

I put direct power from battery with a jumper wire to the FPRelay (the middle of the three parallel sequence)

Used a Test light at Junction IA4 (grey pin connector) underneath dash, tracing blue/blk wire backwards towards fuel pump, next to Junction IL2 (grey pin connector) both had power, next to BP2 Junction (grey pin connector) underneath seat. I noticed moisture near pin connector and had remembered cleaning bottle underneath seat upon purchase, I called another student to confirm suspicions, I cleaned the connector with some wd40, I still had power at that point. I climb underneath to where wires exit the cab and go towards fuel pump, I saw a good opening to test the wire coming out of rubber boot towards fuel pump and had No Power on Test light, I traced it back to the rubber boot that acts like a CUP for spilled drinks maybe snow and sure enough peeling through the wires I found the BREAK! Was wrapped with tape and in the rubber boot but held moisture

Blue and Black wire was Corroded and broke hanging on by a small thread. I cut the break until I saw gold, was bad all the way to connector pin at BP2 Junction

I just got it going

I ended up disconnecting battery and tack welding the shift lever that connects to manual valve lever and parking pawl too, shifts and operates okay for now, going to have to deeper dive from the sequoia and transfer over components on that.

upon start up and running I have MAF and Secondary Air Pump Circuitry codes

will continue to update

 

Gold lol I mean copper lol