What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

I did the same mod., $85 for the drivers door, $85 for all the other doors. There may be some discount if you do all 4, but I just did the Divers door. They are having a deal on them right now for $70.

 

Replaced the outside weatherstrips at the bottom of the window openings.

Quick job but those suckers are expensive for what they are - I’ll be a lot more careful how I scrape frost this winter.

 

Installed the

$999 Kenwood DMX1037S 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

Kenwood DMX1037S over the weekend, need to adjust it upwards some to see my AC/heat display again but very happy with it so far

 

Attached to the unistrut with bolts, washers, and spring nuts.

 

Thanks for the reply. I love the idea and plan on installing one I have sitting around.

 

Link for this? I love it

 

Super excited for this week… not only will I be passed out from a food coma Thursday. I’ll be installing the emblem overlays! Got the correct ones this time lol. And also I had to order a new trim piece for my center console cause I broke the original one during my radio install a while back. I’ll post some pics when I install Friday/saturday. Until then have a good thanksgiving everyone!

 

sounds like maybe the wheel lug nuts started to loosen, I've had that happen to me twice now, both on road trips, luckily I've caught it and torqued them down; I take it the spacer was still attached to the truck?

 

can you link to the emblem overlays? The ones I got awhile back just replace the emblems all together and I've been dragging my feet with it

 

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kenwoo...-media-receiver-black/6428592.p?skuId=6428592
SKU:6428592
Sale: $465

It all started with this thread (https://www.tundras.com/threads/alpine-ilx-f511-game-changer.121157/page-2) where a member let us know of crazy deals Bestbuy has going on 2 Alpine & 1 Kenwood Head unit. Close to $1,000 off type deals.
BUT you have to go in-store, ask an employee to look it up & order it by sku on their computer (not phone). Both the Alpine units are usually sold out but the Kenwood has more inventory it seems. The skus for the Alpines are below if you want to check them.

Model:iLX-F511
SKU:6501278

Model:iLX-F509
SKU:6501296


Quite a few of us got in on the deals, so some of the folks smarter than me on here created an Install thread with tons of great info. (https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-great-hu-install-of-2023.129229/)

 

Speaking of which...
It was a tossup between the same Kenwood as yours and the Alpine, but I ended up going Alpine because of how easy they made it to add an external amplifier. You can't go wrong with either HU.

I recently installed my iLX-F511! Added Toyota-specific Focal speakers in the doors and Pioneer 2.75" coaxial speakers in the dash, to boost the mid-range. The speakers are all powered by an Alpine 4x45w plug-n-play brick amp. Bass is supplemented with a 12" Pioneer shallow mount sub powered by a Soundstream TXP1.3500D amp. I absolutely love this setup!

Oh, and I added a Roku stick for those long road trips!

If anyone is interested, I have a 4mo old Dasaita HU available for sale, here.

 

Spacer was still attached to the wheel.

 

Awesome, it looks great. I also added an HDMI port for a Roku/FireStick. I'm going to swap out my JBL amp, add these subs and some speakers somewhere down the line as well. I couldn't find the alpine's near me, and I did like the idea of keeping a volume knob. Either way a great upgrade!

 

You crewmax guys have [almost] all the fun! I imagine that'll sound pretty good. I'd love to have a larger sub box like that but my only option is to kill all of the storage under my rear seats.

That volume knob is hard to beat. I've ordered Alpine's Bluetooth remote volume/bass controller. Folks complain having to "wake" it to connect—which at the moment isn't a deterrent for me—but yeah I'm a little jealous of your Kenwood in that regard!

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3939617940...lonVuiYRuy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

D

Did the spacer lugs shear off? I have 1.5 inch spacers installed with 35 inch tires for the last 9 years, torued with red loctite. I've changed tires 3 times. You said the spacer was still attached. Not a pissing match but were the wheel lugs just not torqued or periodically checked as with all aluminum wheels. Just wanted some definite info.
I had a 35 inch tire come off my Blazer at 45mph lucky no one was hurt. Happened 30 minutes after les schwab installed them. They had to pay for the new front hub assembly. Glad no one was hurt.

 

Some of the lugs looked to have pulled through the spacer, some were sheared off at the truck. I'm not sure how, maybe something got loose and that's what got the ball rolling. As far as I can tell it happened very quickly. I had driven about 1000 miles and didn't notice a thing. Everything was always checked. Torque specs were right on literally 1000 miles prior. I always poo poo'd the naysayers...never again.

 

You do have a lot of weight in the bed from what it looks like, had you been hauling a lot of extra weight or a trailer?

 

I took advantage of the Black Friday deal for the Morimoto headlights. Me likey....

 

Had a nice surprise 4 days ago. Got to replacing this mini torpedo today. What a miserable job.

 

Ordered mine today! How was install?

 

Replaced the original rear shocks with Bilstein 5100’s. Major difference since the originals were both blown at 205K. They just started including the upper bushings and washers, but the instructions were incorrect on where the keeper washer goes. They want it on the underneath side of the top mount and it’s supposed to go on the upper side against the mount. Picked them up from Shock Surplus. Their support is great and had the same price as Amazon. Will definitely use them again when it’s time for the fronts.

 

Simple. Took about 30 minutes total. Only issue I ran into was that I had to move the battery all the way to the right in the battery tray because the leveling motor was running into the battery. Otherwise it was simple.

 

My '08 hit 275k on a dog run this morning....

 

Got new 4600's front and rear. New hats for the fronts. EBC front rotors and Yellowstuff brake pads. I had the running gear fluid changed too. Tundra going in this week to have the shocks and rotors put on, and a brake fluid swap.

Should I do the SAIS bypass thing now? Mine is 2012 w/128k miles.

It'll be an almost new truck after the shocks and rotor swap.

 

Flat out the worst repair I’ve ever done on a vehicle.

 

Wrapped my boost auto tow mirrors using this wrap that pretty closely matches my Salsa Red 3Q3.

Before/after:




I need more practice at wrapping but it still turned out better than when I painted the previous mirror caps.

 

I’m guessing you haven’t had to replace the driver side climate control servo assembly yet. That was by far the worst and longest repair I’ve ever had to do on a vehicle. I wouldn’t wish that repair on anybody.

 

Looks really good

 

I added tailgate open buttons to both sides of the bed. It's nice when you're pulling up with a cart or you have your hands full or you're packed into a garage and using the regular tailgate handle would require awkward maneuvering around the tailgate as it lowers.

It's useful enough that it's a feature on the new Tundras, but really, I'm just trying to upgrade my electrical skills.

I installed two

$22 Directed Electronics Install Essentials 524N High Power Door Lock Motor

door lock actuators inside the tailgate and attached them to the poles that connect the tailgate handle to the latches on either side. When they get 12v to the blue wire, they push pretty hard, opening the tailgate if it's unlocked (but not if it is locked). One actuator was powerful enough, but I bought two so why not hook them both up.



Closeup of the actuator screwed into the tailgate:


Closeup of the connections between the actuator arm and the two tailgate latch poles:


I ran the wires to a

$13 STARELO 5pcs 12mm Momentary Push Button Switch Black Shell with pre-Wiring, IP65 Waterproof Push Button Switch,Aluminum Alloy 1 Normally Open Without LED.

momentary button I drilled through the plastic cover on top of the bed (there's a hole in the sheet metal underneath so this was easy). I put one button on both sides and connected them to constant power that I had previously run for my bed lights. The buttons poke up enough I can easily push them with my elbow if my hands are full.



This is partially based on this thread. In the future I'm going to add a tailgate release button to the cab but I need to run more wires the length of the truck.