Rear window blows 30 amp fuse

I have a 2008 tundra crew max 5.7 L.

I installed rear door speakers aftermarket and ran new wiring from the front door and rear door speakers to the four channel aftermarket head unit I purchased eliminating the two tweeters. When I finished I put the door panels on and tested the functionality of the power windows power mirrors and power locks. Everything worked except for the right rear door window which blows the 30 amp fuse when I try to use it. Any tips on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated, please keep the short sarcastic not helpful remarks to a minimum.

 

Does it blow when going up or down or both?
Does it blow from using the switch on the rear door?

I'd pull the panel and make sure none of your wires got crushed.
Make sure the switch connectors are fully seated.

What did you use to feed the speaker wire thru the door boot?
Does the radio and speakers work properly?
Good luck..

 

I appreciate your time thank you!
It blows from connecting the rear plug to the window switch and it blows when main is pushed up or down.

As far as I can tell the switch connectors are fully seated and functional properly.
Everything else seems to be ok ie, power locks,window,and mirrors ok on the 3 doors, also the rear window for the cab is working.

Ive inspected the wires in driver's door pulled rubber boot to get visual,

I had a difficult time running speaker wire through those rubber conduit in doors to body, used a plastic fish tape that's rounded and rubber tipped,and also a coat hanger not sharp on end.ky guess is it's between the two passenger doors.
Worth noting when I first tried to roll down from master it didn't blow right away think speaker wire was possibly obstructing motor.
Again thank you for your help this far and anything further.Im a licensed plumber and if you ever have any questions pertaining to it I'll give you any and all advice needed!

 

Thought I'd give an update with good news!
The wiring diagrams were very useful along with the other input as well.

I gained access to the wires passing thru the four doors, as in removed the 4 panels(& necessary trim) for access then, disconnected wire harnesses, carefully removed the 4 flexible rubber conduits used to shield and route the wires from the doors to the interior of the truck. I did find I had damaged the cover of two different wires, but as I predicted fixing those didn't fix the problem, as they were in separate doors and neither was grounding in the conduit. What did fix my issue, which again was blowing the 30amp fuse in left side kick panel, was the actual window switch in the right rear door. It was causing a short any time from the master switch or the rear. Minus the time it was a cheap fix got one off Amazon for $12 delivered and everythings working mint!

 

Glad you got it worked out and thanks for posting the solution