What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Long story short(ish). Radiator blew up on the highway. Pretty sure I shut her off before she over heated. Had it towed home. No water in oil, no oil in coolant (that was left), and no white smoke out of exhaust.

Pressure washed engine, installed a new Denso Radiator. Fired her up. Noticed she wasn’t very smooth running, but figured I was being over sensitive. Put a thousand miles on her over the next week or so, still was thinking she wasn’t as smooth. Weather changes, mornings get cold (Ca cold low 40’s, and out of the blue, major misfiring one morning. Felt like I was driving over solid cement bags on the highway.

Still got me to my office and home about 200miles, and I noticed once she warmed up she ran ok, definitely still missing but not violently.

In my head I knew what it was. 100k ago I changed plugs and noticed the coil packs were puffed and cracked. I figured it wasn’t missing, so I ran them. I also noticed at the time the tube seals were leaking. (Future project, already had all new OEM parts to do valve cover gaskets etc.) I assumed when I pressure washed, I got water in the spark plug tubes, and the coils were shorting out. I was right, but the truck didn’t throw a check engine light till I almost got home 200 miles later.

Plan was to do Valve Covers, PCV valve, Plugs, and Coil Packs.


Nice to see they cleanly machine “Toyota” off the Rock Auto Denso Coils.


Old Coils, the rest of the 8 look like the one on the right.


Air filter with about 100k on it. I live off dusty roads, and drive to remote work sites on miles of gravel wash board roads. I probably should change more often.


While I was at it, I had to VC’s powder coated a deep metallic orange.








Truck is running better than ever, but now I’m fighting some engine codes that don’t seem to going away even after I cleared them.

P0308 Misfire #8
P0117 Coolant sensor 1 circuit low
C1201 Something about the ECM shutting down the BCM

So that’s fun lol

 

They're nice. I thought it was silly until I had one. (Like remote start.)

 

@Diablo169 That's a bold choice Cotton. LOL. I kid I kid. It looks great. Not my color choice but it looks great. Also paint under the hood adds 5HP per cylinder. At least. Congrats.

 

I mean ... you too could have it, if you just had a donor truck to pull the bits and baubles from... I suspect it's getting power from the bulkhead at the passenger kick panel, maybe, since I can't imagine it teeing off the roof wire, but ... who knows w/o looking at the EWD.

Having a cap though ... there's almost no reason to use it. Used to be that I could kick the front windows open an inch or so, then open the back slider 1/4 way and it would create a quiet vortex in the truck that was nice. With the cap on I've gotta keep it nearly all the way open. Pros and cons!

 

I should probably get that PCV-to-TB hose part and replace on mine, it's practically disintegrating.

Meanwhole on the codes ... that is weird. I could see the first two codes being tied to bad ground or something, but when you add in the 3rd, I almost wonder if the arcing/short from the coil packs may've backfed to the ECM? Or it could just be highlighting the other two codes as part of the problem, as that can be.

This is a whopper where the only guy whose input I'd trust is @empty_lord or @BubbaW

For shits n giggles, I'd swap coil packs #6 and #8, and check the plug for cylinder #8 while in there. See if the misfire jumps and throws P0306. Although ... did you unplug/replug the coolant temp sensors just to verify it's not a loose connection? The proximity to valve covers is ... curious.

 

Oh the new PVC valve, boot thing and PCV hose had to be 5hp as well lol. Edit: The SC1 on the plastics to make them shiny is probably good for 2hp

I have never had anything orange (minus chainsaws), I almost called the shop and changed it to charcoal last minute.

Crawler is Red, RZR is sparkly blue lol. All my stuff has been white, silver or grey lol.

 

you could find a donor truck and add a power slider to the cap

 

Those are works of art! that looks pretty bad ass man

 

Those are works of art! that looks pretty bad ass man[/QUOTE]

Thanks man, Coat It in Santa Cruz nailed it. I guess it’s two part with a clear top coat. Orange feels at home in the engine bay. I was 100% second guessing my decision till I saw them installed.

Better than this

 

i cant remember off the top of my head. but are there any grounds going to the valve covers? the powder coating may be the problem.
if not.. just check for loose grounds arounf where you looked.

 

Nuthin to the Tundra. New rear brakes on wife’s 2005 Suburban. Pads had 1-2 mm left so replaced them and rotors. Also new bump stops as old ones crumbled away.

 

Wife’s Jeep GC brakes were a squealin in the chick fil a drive through tonight. She’s embarrassed. I’m playing with the pedal to make music from the intermittent squeaking. On the to do list. Only got 160k out of them. Tsk tsk.

 

Ferd rear brakes getting thin. Went ahead and ordered replacements. Meh.

 

I thought that, and I looked back through my before pics, and didn’t see any.

I’m hoping it clears it self out.

I’m upset I didn’t check the codes before I started.

 

Tackling a refresh of the front suspension. And taking care of the frame while I have the parts off since there is good access to it.

Before:


After:


What came off from both sides:



Ohhh the joys of salt belt cars.

It also got a coating a of Corroseal, and then I plan to follow up with an oil coat of some sort like fluid film or surface shield. The whole frame will get this treatment eventually.

 

Nice! I use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, although POR-15 is appropriate as well.

 

I’ve got to pop my front calipers off again the the near future and re-apply the shim plates to the pads. One shim came loose while installing the lift and is causing hellacious squealing when the brakes are cold. I realize it’s only 8 bolts a side, two for the caliper and 6 for the tire, but for some reason I’m dreading it. I should break down and do it this week, but still running a low grade fever from this flu BS.

 

Northern weight reduction mod. For speed of course.

 

Shifty’ - I bought a DeWalt compact impact last year and it makes quick work of removing lug nuts and suspension parts. Used it on my wife’s Suburban and no problem with lugs torqued to 140 ft-lbs.

 

I’ll impact off but always torque on.

Just feeling weak (flu) and the thought of lifting off an oversized tire and gluing shims to brake pads is not appealing.

 

And this is what it looks like after Corroseal has finished doing it's thing


After more research, it seems like most people are getting the longest lasting results by top coating it with an oil based paint/enamel like rustoleum. I'm going to go grab some today and give everything a coat or 2 of that before assembling parts.

Also for any of you who are unlucky enough to own a rust belt vehicle and want to do this. The real hero of this endeavor is a needle scaler. It gets into all the tight places with ease, and doesn't fling bits of rust at mach 12 like a wire wheel does. Definitely still want a good pair of safety goggles and a respirator.

 

Make sure you pump something inside the frame too. We've seen some rot from the inside out.

 

Yes, that is 100% the plan. Just tackling this section since I have the parts off

 

I'm in the Rust belt MI as well. How did you like that converter? I used Gempler's, with a garden sprayer! Hahaha, kind of expensive, but so far I am happy with the results.

$69 Gempler's Sprayable Formula Rust Converter - 1 Gallon

https://www.amazon.com/GEMPLERS-Eco...932-4fdf-9ffb-32d52d43472b&pd_rd_i=B01N0Z4VKG

 

It seems fine, was easy to work with/apply. We will see how it holds up I guess.

Corroseal looks to have a similar consistency and color to gemplers. I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same or very close to the same.

 

No to rustoleum...get POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encaplulator.

 

Those are meant to go directly onto rust. Mine is already treated with the Corroseal. It just needs a good oil based chassis paint as a top coat now.

 

Get rid of the orange covers any which way you can. In fact i’ll sacrifice my stock covers and trade them for your orange. I’m not saying i love orange, or orange is my favorite color, but i do have handfuls of orange chainsaws, a quiver of orange KTM dirtbikes, old orange vespa motor scooter, orange Datsun 240Z, orange 77 Ford f-250 4wd “lowboy”.

I’ll even cover the shipping...

 

I got some sliders on from IronRyanoFabrication (https://www.instagram.com/ironrynofabrication)