What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah, jam on that e-brake and release it a few times to dial-in. Then see where you are.

I don't think I noticed any difference in pedal travel on mine. But I did notice the difference in the speed of engagement.

You may also try unlocking the double-nut on the LSPV armature/rod and dialing back 2-3 threads, then locking down again. Since you didn't lift much. My rear is up a full 2" with the ATS springs.

 

I checked the rear brakes not long ago but might be worth doing it again. Would you all try to tweak anything with the adjustment nuts or leave it alone?

 

If no chatter, no reason to change it.

Or his LSD is more worn out. That's my guess.

The extra travel could be you need more adjustment of the rear shoes. I'd jack up the rear and adjust until there is a very slight drag rotating the wheel by hand.

If your rears lockup before the fronts it is biased too much to the rear. Is there room to redrill the bracket and move it so it matches the amount of lift?

 

Yup, I was telling @FirstGenVol I think that may be where he's at with his right now. Lucas 80w90 and he's got a little chatter. Slip additive killed the chatter. Suspect it may be time to overhaul in the next couple years.

Easier to adjust the LSPV down at the bracket, no?

​

 

That's what I was getting at. I think I'll try moving it down and see what happens. I've adjusted it many times in the past and never noticed a big change.

This also makes me want to fix the ABS issue.

 

I mean, it's totally possible the LSPV isn't working, also. "The Other Guy", while not a huge fan, does show what symptoms you may see when it's not working as expected.

If you don't plan on hauling much other than ass, you could always swap it out for a manual prop valve, like Wildwood and plenty of others make (I've only ever used the Wildwood product)

 

Maybe you should look at upgrading the front brakes to the GX460 setup????

 

I’ll need to try this once my arm heals and after a 2nd rear brake bleed attempt.

 

Trust me, I've already had those thoughts. Your words can't hurt me. I already hate myself.

I don't even like discussing my brakes on here anymore.

 

Stop right there, bud!

 

Had a frame inspection today by Mid West Toyota in Hutchinson, Ks. No signs of any rust, is in great condition for a 24 year old truck and the tech added that it was the best he had ever seen. Spending its entire life in the Hayward California area was the key.

Of course the estimate of $1,100.00 to replace the seatbelt tensioners (2) was a little out of line.

 

https://www.safetyrestore.com/content/81-seat-belt-repair-services

 

Dang - that is one clean Tundra! My paint failed but my front bumper is straight. Ha

 

What’s your mileage?

 

It has been resprayed, there is a little body work that needs to be done but overall in very good condition. Mileage is 129,000.

 

Sorry @shifty` ive been busy, but clamps have a mil or two gap on each side, you should be good

 

used safetyrestore for new front belts. Worked great and was a quick turnaround. Probably cost you $100-300

 

Changed the Valvoline syn out today to Castrol lsd 80w90 seems to work fine so far

 

Youdaman!

 

Really bro? You've gotta point out the one single flaw in his otherwise show-quality beautiful 1st gen Tundra? Shame on you.
Agreed tho, clean AF

 

funny.... I depressurized the line and when I pulled the engine side line out.... I got gas all over the right side of my face... literally 1 minute before that I was thinking I need some safety glasses.... Well I managed to get my eyes closed before impact, but my right eyelid was burning.... and my ear... didn't make it to the ear drum thankfully!! Glad I was home!! Ran inside stripped and jumped in the shower for half an hour using just shampoo, until the bite went away... threw the clothes in the washer and went back at it....

I should of know better...

Ended up breaking a few of the tabs in the process.. I figure the filter is clamped in good and the fuel lines are protected by the frame... so I'm not going to worry about it!! I may do another change at 450K lol I used a needle nose vise grip to get the piece that wraps around the filter close enough to start that little 8mm bolt.... and used my bicycle Park tool small wrench to tighten it... I've collected some unique tools over the years...
Aside from the gas in the face it went really smooth considering it wasn't on a firewall...

 

Shifty... you are a national treasure!!! lol thanks for the insight!! I did buy some Napa flush fluid, ran out to the car and grabbed it..... It's called Mac's 1500 Radiator Fast Flush (safe for all cooling systems ).

What I had originally planned to do is use a cleaner with distilled water and pull the thermostat and run for 10 to 15 minutes and let it work the heater core and motor, then drain and do two more rinses (distilled) and drain and then add in the new coolant after I installed all the new parts... I personally think the nature of distilled water is so aggressive
that it will neutralize any chemical that I briefly introduce to the environment... and the cleaning agent would most likely only affect a seal that is already compromised..... as to the past?
I have no idea what has been run through the system... I get this vibe that it was an old guy (1 owner) who did great maintenance but may have skimped out on coolant possibly?
Just my thought process thus far.... I'm not doing this till Monday so feel free to throw some ideas at me...

As far as being an old guy that owned it... the arm rest on driver seat was absolutely nasty as well as seatbelt.... I cleaned both and there were spots in the cab that had never been cleaned in my opinion... although interior was in good shape! seat covers? the dash is perfect also.... and passenger seat was mint! actually the drivers seat is too for that matter... So him being an old guy when it comes to coolant... I think he put what ever in it....
can't be sure either way so that's why I will do this one flush multistep process and call it good for this truck... ;-)
Now that I am thinking about it... I may do some clear solo cups of each drain and post a pic?? Seen a YouTube guy do the same...

 

LOL let me know what you get... $$. I'm definitely using a tyvec suit next time... I may tip the truck on its side also... lol I think a quart of gas came out... poor design on that... they should have done a fire wall application.

 

I just bought some fluid at the dealership.... guess I will go OEM... I think my Lexus uses the same stuff.... the seepage on the radiator is pink (good) so I will do a light detergent rinse with 2 follow rinses with distilled water and replace the parts and fill and call it good.
Probably overkill? But I really wanted to do a one over on this truck... it's 22 years old and I will be going camping in it in the middle of nowhere Idaho, so peace of mind.... I guess.

Funny thing is tonight in my work vehicle (I drive a Semi) I actually had a serious coolant leak... lost a gallon today during my shift and I only did one load so I had 180 miles to get back to the yard after I notice the leak when I was unloading in Nyssa, Oregon.... kept the RPMs down and ran the fan on any small hill (kept the temp at 180-185) got back in good shape.... Had steam coming off the motor earlier tonight...

thanks for the reply!! appreciate it!

 

that is a beauty!!!

I agree with your quote... ;-) I literally told a friend who drives a jacked up Chevy with Mickey Thompson tires that when his truck dies... I will loaded it up on a trailer and pull it to the Jalopy Jungle for him with my 02 Tundra.... lol then I watched a piece of him die right there.... lol



I just sold a 2020 Hybrid Avalon Limited and went to a 2011 ES350 (Japan made) and the money I would have lost on that discontinued line (Avalon) I ended up buying my Tundra. Free truck over the next 18 months with the depreciation... Win Win in my opinion.... I think Toyota has been sucked into the new age of over compensating for fuel efficiency/performance to sell cars... granted Prius has been around for longer than Tundras 97 vs 00... but the new 4 cylinder turbo engines just won't have the longevity of these older gems.... which is counterintuitive to Toyotas history In my opinion... Toyota has always put fuel economy in the back seat to accommodate longevity (aka under stressed engines)... just look at similar year Hondas.. great motors in fact very impressive motors and they always get better fuel economy than Toyota!! Just hate their dam suspension,.. lol I had a late 80's accord... absolutely beat the shit out of that car... and I test drove 2010 model and felt the exact same suspension (last Honda I touched)... lol I guess if it's not broke? don't fix it??? Acura's do play with the double wishbone suspension....? so no telling what goes through corporate's cranium???

I guess we all need to just drive what is aesthetically stimulating to us and hope others on the road resonate with it as well as our circle of friends.... First Gen drivers immediately spot each other on the road... at least here in Idaho! Feels like riding on a motorcycle... instant connection and hand wave.

anyway I've rambled on for a minute.... enjoy the site and I've learned a lot here.

thanks!

 

I feel like if you drain it out and it doesn't look nasty I'd just run it. I do get where you're coming from though and totally get why you want to do it. Just seems like a lot of time you're going to spend bleeding the cooling system in between flushes and such. You should definitely get a coolant fill funnel if you don't have one.

$20 EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit

LINK It helps you bleed the system a bit better. I've used mine many times.

 

I totally agree with your post... I won't over do the bleeding aspect on this... after 2 quick distilled flushes... I will do a quick drain and drop in half the systems 100% coolant that needs mixing and top off with more distilled water and cap it... relatively quick. Removing the thermostat will push the liquid around quicker and I need to replace the radiator afterwards... so time wise.... I can turn wrenches... nice way to spend a Fall sunny day!

Maybe, I will grab a cheap funnel from Walmart... funnel does make sense. Thanks! Or cut one of the water jugs and turn upside down?? My farm boy side.... lol

I'll tell you what I'm dreading is changing the spark plugs on my 11 es350.... I literally have to pull the windshield wiper assembly to do the job correctly... Dealerships charge 800.00 to do the job.... I'm inevitably going through that car like my Tundra to just baseline all the previous maintenances...

 

I’m with NickB on this: Overkill unless there is clear evidence of a problem. From my vantage, I don’t see evidence, or even a suggestion. I dunno about you, but I don’t put chemicals in my vehicle that require special treatment or dilution unless there’s a really damn good reason. But to each their own.

Meanwhile … armrest gunk … one of the fun things about getting old is your skin starts to slough off more easily, and pill. I didn’t expect it to happen, but as I get older I realize I shed more skin, more readily, and I’m becoming that old dude. I first started noticing on my computer keyboard and mouse, then my chair armrests and desk where my arms set. It is what it is. Glad to hear you’re not there yet.

Rub hand sanitizer into it and wipe away with a paper towel then hit it with an alcohol wipe to get it out of any cracks, assuming it’s not the fabric part. If it’s the fabric part, dilute Simple Green and a brush will make short work of it. Then rinse fully, 2-3 times with clean water.

I’ve said it elsewhere and I’ll say it again: It’s never the fuel filter on these trucks - they’re hard to replace because Toyota never intended you to replace, I don’t think people get that. This isn’t a Ford, GM or Dodge product. I don’t care how sludgy gas in the tank was. The screen/sock on the Denso pumps, as seen the numerous times pics have been posted here, is ample enough to prevent any sizable contaminants from even reaching the filter. Think about it for a sec, logically — If you’re concerned about tank sludge, you should’ve replaced the fuel pump, because the sock would be utterly clogged and not allowing fuel into the system…

if you haven’t caught the catch-all info thread in the sticky thread, get on it

 

I have Lucas 80w/90 in rear end. I thought it was chatter but I think it's me being paranoid. It I feel no huge vibration it truck so I'm pretty sure it's just the tires turning at slow speed making me second guess if have it or not. Doesn't sound/feel any different than after last time I put new fluid it after bell housing gasket replacement. 80w-90 then too.