General Supercharger Thread

and...

I now want to get the boost gauge working before I put on the 77.5mm.

so I ordered a new AEM X gauge. comes in Tomorrow

I'm wanting to see, after the swap, if the following reading are the same:

idle @ -17-ish
60mph cruise @ -10-ish
Beltway 8 ship channel bridge crossing 60mph on cruise control @ +2lbs
on ramp to Hardy Toll Road @ +6lbs

for science.

 

RCA sent me Innovate's response:

Hi Stefan,

thank you for bearing with me. Innovate has gotten back to me regarding this issue and has stated me with the following.

"This is a very common code to receive with these gauges that use o2 sensors due to the fumes within the exhaust clogging the sensor up. 99% of the time this issue can be fixed by pulling the o2 sensor out and using a cleaner on it. To test before throwing the sensor back in to the car you can use butane gas such as lighter fluid and spray it onto the sensor itself and you should receive a reading in the high 90's on the gauge. At that point it is safe to throw the sensor back into the car and you are good to go". If you have anymore questions on this process you can contact Innovate's technical support line. I have included their contact info below. Please let me know if you have any further questions or concerns.

 

Brake cleaner works too for testing. You can use other wide band sensors that cross reference the Bosch but I would stick with Bosch or Denso.

 

Note to self: if it takes a 12 ton press to get it on a 5 ton puller is not going to work. Wasted my weekend but the hack job got it off. Old to new! Got it ported for the RCF. Now on to intake...

 

Looks awesome! Still need to hear that exhaust!

 

I always used a 3 jaw 6-ton puller to get them off, and it's always scary when it finally pops loose

 

Highest so far. Think im going to just weld up the mid pipe to LTs to stop the leaks

 

This is all I have for now...
https://www.tundras.com/threads/dirty-deeds-industry.129890/#post-3313714 post 5

 

HA! Sounds wild.

 

Finally got snout back on and did Matt Smith mod on fuel rails, removed bevel. Know hes not on here but major Thanks to 4firemandan for his write up on some good mods. On to the intake.

 

Where’s that write up I’m curious on what this mod is

 

I have the solution to the Innovate.

Step 1 search a replacement sensor.

2 Buy sensor.

 

I followed this for my fuel pump, rails and sort of like his intake but I'm keeping the drop in filter not a cone. I'm not ffv either.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/

 

Now I gotta start a thread somewhere for this fella. 2005 GX470 4.7L. Based on the 4Runner platform. Gonna try and keep it long term. But it's definitely getting supercharged!

 

Nice, I just bought this for the BMW:

$23 SYLVANIA - Headlight Restoration Kit - 3 Easy Steps to Restore Sun Damaged Headlights with Exclusive UV Block Clear Coat, Light Output and Beam Pattern Restored, Long Lasting Headlight Restorer Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429NKWK?ie=UTF8&th=1


Popular Mechanics reviewed it as best:

https://www.popularmechanics.com/ca...st/?gbraid=0AAAAADCyiSmjIWwqpKFD9AvL-R9eSnPOz

 

Got the 4.5inch intake mocked up in the SC TRD airbox. The dremel got away from me in the lower left area, about 7 ocolck. Anyone ever use zip ties in a glue gun to fuse ABS plastic? May just use JB Weld and some rivets to hold flange in place. Looking for the most solid connection.
Would it look ghetto wrapping in black header wrap. All is see is @reywcms gold or silver heat wrap online. Thanks.

 

Don't use header wrap... just paint it or use the foil!!

JB weld is great!!

 

Thanks! All I could find was jb weld for abs and aluminum. I have the silver wrap but it's not too hot here in summer 90's for a week or 2. Hopefully fill in a few voids.

 

In my efforts to chase a P0430, I stumbled upon some information that might be relevant to this anomaly: in an attempt to determine whether emissions equipment has been defeated or substantially altered, the ECU will quickly and subtly modulate the AFR in an effort to test the resulting catalyzed exhaust, generally during an extended duration of a consistent AFR (such as being on cruise). If the downstream sensor doesn't detect the subtle change, ECU will return a P0420/P0430.

 

I have used plastic pens through a cheap glue gun for things like this. Worked shockingly well.

 

I would consider using a weather seal. The engine moves under torque so a hard seal will likely crack.

 

Then he should be upgrading to the solid motor mounts....

 

He might already have them.

 

agreed...engine movement cracked the lid tabs on my stock lower air box. hence, the new TRD one I just put in....that has the same DAMN tabs!!!

and I zip tie the Harrop cable to the MAF tube to keep it stationary - so as to prevent any further drama.

 

I need to get all this grown up adult crap off my calendar...I have important shit to do!

 

I don't recall ever seeing an option in techstream to reset a maint light. I tried anyways on my 2019 and could not find any option to reset one. I looked up the diagram for a 2013 Sequoia and there is a 7.5 amp fuse labeled "MET" in the fuse box under the hood on the driver side, and a 5 amp labeled "MET-B" also in the drivers side fuse box that would completely remove power from the combination meter. You might be able to try to remove those 2 fuses first before going through the hassle of removing the whole cluster. Hope this helps a bit.

 

Thanks, I pulled the battery yesterday, no joy.

 

Damn. And the button for the odometer/trip A/B isn't functional?

 

18+ wants it through menus accessed in the cluster via the right switches. I have cobbled the 18 cluster into my 13 & this is part of the deal apparently. The right buttons become dead when low fuel & apparently oil interval occurs.

Low fuel was fixed by filling up. I'll try the fuses. Thanks!