What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Dude, you need to get that oil out of there. Didn't you read this thread?

Believe me, I didn't believe it either, went full synthetic. Luckily, Mobil1 refunded me after I started noticing chatter (light skipping) almost immediately when backing out of parking spaces where a turn was required and making extremely slow turns. Bad for your LSD.

I had to dump everything and go with Lucas 80w90 because I'm a fucking idiot and didn't want to listen to everyone on here who knew better. The huge ass warning in that thread is so others don't make the same mistake. I don't know that anyone has found a synthetic other than Amsoil Severe Gear that'll work with our 1st Gen LSD.

I guess ordering the wrong lights wasn't the only fat finger mistake you made eh

 

You can only lead a horse to water……

 

***NEEEEIIGGGHHH***

I was that horse also. I try and hope to save others that pain.

 

@The Black Mamba
Do you know roughly the size of the air box tube that attaches to the inner fender portion of the snorkel?

 

Not sure if I had mentioned it when I mentioned other things, but I also had no issues with redline and some additive juice

I’ve probably changed my gear oil like 6 times in less than 20k?

 

dang I did miss that one thanks for the heads up I’ll get it out of there tomorrow then.

 

Yeah, I mean, I could've probably made the Mobil1 work if I'd have kept adding Trans-X slip additive in my rear end. But the thing is, there's a fine line between slipping when expected and slipping all the time. I tried to ride the line, adding 2oz, then another 2oz, then another 1oz, hoping to find that sweet spot where it was 99% or 100% gone, but still operating as expected. I was going to go for another two 1oz applications to finish the bottle, then I realized, "what the hell am I doing?"

Had I put the whole bottle in, I would've been adding ~1/4 quart of slip juice into my diff. And I was still getting very faint but noticeable chatter. At some point you just need to say, "Damn... I effed up here. I just need to go with the fluid that works right out of the bottle with no additive, and is also recommended by well known gear shops for this specific LSD, they know better than me and my pigheaded, stubborn ass self..."

I'm just grateful Mobil1 has great customer service and was willing to cut me a check for the product I had to recycle.

The sad thing is, a LOT of people don't know what chatter is, what it feels like. I do. I've been a gearhead all my life and had several cars in the past with Posi/LSD rears. I've never rebuilt a gd one of them, but the first time you hear and feel chatter, which I did at age 15, you never forget it.

And let's be real ... even using the right fluid, you may have chatter. Another member I've been chatting with off-forum had an experience with that recently.

 

If you're not experiencing chatter, leave it in.

Are you familiar with what chatter feels like? I can describe it, so you can know what to look for.

 

That’s definitely cool they refunded you, they probably know they are selling snake oil.
I’ve always been a tinker-er? But more so wrenching person in my older age, just because I’m cheap and don’t trust anyone. So I’ve never known what chatter is, but I knew right away it wasn’t normal, especially right after a big variable was changed. Even when I get my e locker in, I’ll still probably run Dino for world peas reasons

 

I know a lot of people haven't driven manual, so may not know what it feels like when a clutch is slipping. The sensation is similar.

Since we're stuck with words online, best way I can describe it is ... Imagine you were backing up with tires that had huge nubs the outer edges. The second you turn the wheel, it's almost like you can feel every little nub rhythmically grabbing. Almost the same feeling as a knobby tire rubbing the frame.

Alternately, if you can imagine trying to backup with your parking brake BARELY set with drum brakes, imagine the skipping sensation that would happen as that fibrous shoe skipped across the inside of the drum. If you've ever had your car lurch forward with your foot on the brake, that skipping ... it's very similar. But the sound, you can hear it in the cab and feel it, but nobody outside the car can.

It's almost like something is grabbing. And it starts immediately when you kick the wheels left/right while at crawling speed, like you would backing out of a garage or parking spot. Or initiating a right-hand turn from a stop sign. It's always more noticeable when cold.

 

Yep, exactly
That’s why I knew something wasn’t right.

 

ok so we’re looking at the Lucas non syn 80w90? It doesn’t say online it has additive so I may just get some anyway and see how it goes.

don’t know if it’s chattering yet I haven’t driven it since the change. I’ll be vigilant on the way to work tomorrow

 

Trust us, you don’t need any.

 

It's not going to kill anything if you run for days or weeks with chatter.

Just keep your ears peeled. Hell, maybe you stumbled on a winner here and found a full synthetic that works. I'm curious as hell myself.

But even if you didn't, even if you put 2000 miles on with chattering, it's not going to kill your rear end.

 

I used the same stuff, it chattered with additive

 

Well damn.

Valvoline *does* say these two products are supposedly compatible with our LSD, is the left one what you bought? Wonder if they'd refund if you got chatter?:

 

The baggie on the left, it was a year or more ago, im not to worried about getting a refund. I’ve got bigger turds to fry

 

Swapped the spare with my new tire size 255/80/17 (33s) and discovered that maybe the previous owner grinded off the spare tire metal guide. Kinda glad because now there's no fitment issue. Also realized my axle is a little more rusted that I want it to be, or maybe it's some/dirt mud caked on. Will look into it more tomorrow.



Lastly, here's a 265/70/16 next to a 255/80/17 tire so you guys can see the difference. I think my 255s feel great on this truck

 

Bought a 1 owner about a month ago... going through it... 02 Tundra access cab with 225k on it... timing belt replaced by dealership 10k ago....

Replaced rear diff today, the oil I dropped out wasn't all that bad... ended up using Valvoline full synthetic

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 - all Walmart had....
Replaced fuel filter (OEM)- the gas I dumped out of the old one was brown.... really needed it!!!! reminded me of one I changed out on 240 Volvo with 350k on it... lol nasty!
Also changed out the spark plugs today (OEM), was needed.... little quicker on start up.
Thought about doing the Transmission fluid today but the color is a decent red... I may hold off till spring.
Noticed the top of the radiator has seepage all away around it.... and I have read all the warnings on this site, about them breaking and causing pink foam in the tranny... So I ordered a new radiator (Denso) from RockAuto and also new hoses - top and bottom as well as radiator cap (gates) and a new thermostat (aisin).....
Guess I'll research a good coolant system cleaner unless someone responds with an idea here? should I use the cleaner in old fluid or run distilled water with it?? and then rinse out again?? I was planning on doing a straight distilled water rinse on the system for 10 minutes before I put new fluid in....

Still haven't installed my Bilstein 5100 shocks yet.... nor my LED lights, this other stuff took precedence!
Really enjoying this project... bought this as a work truck so I don't tear up my Lexus. Will make a great camping rig also... I almost like driving this more than my ES350

I really think this truck has an easy 300k more in it... Engine has zero seepage and the Transmission is smooth... Probably will be the best 8K I've ever spent!

 

300K? Easy. Welcome.

 

I also got the one on the left it also says gl5 on it so I figured it was good. Dang

 

Inner diameter would be roughly 4 1/4. outer diameter maybe 4 3/4

 

@Tundra2 had a pretty nasty radiator in his truck. He got it pretty clean.

Also, fuck that fuel filter. Complete pain in the ass.

 

It wasn’t that bad when I changed mine 6 or 8 years ago. My hands still smell like gas though

 

What does your old coolant look like? Pink or Green? Any rust or issues in it? If rusty use a radiator cleaner. If had wrong (green) coolant fill and drain several times with distilled water to rinse out any old coolant then refill with correct coolant. If pink and looks clean just drain and fill with correct coolant. I used Zerex Asian Pink for Toyota/Lexus

 

Mine leaked all over my head, my hands, the street, the frame. I emptied the lines and everything. Didn't matter, it still came out. If I ever had to change it out again I'm just setting the truck on fire and claiming it on insurance.

 

drove 10 miles to work today and did a couple figure 8s in the parking lot. Didn’t notice any chatter or any unusual sounds or feelings. I still may switch over to the conventional oil just for peace of mind but she was pretty smooth this morning. I didn’t think syn would bother it.

 

If you're not feeling chatter, again, maybe you found a winner, or @FrenchToasty is smoking crack

Before flushing, do you have a reason to flush? Like ... Have you found any caking anywhere? Is the fluid discolored? Is it using the wrong coolant? If not, don't bother subjecting your seals to any of the flushing products out there. If you have a reason to, the Prestone flush bottles are convenient and can be bought in multi-packs on the scAmazon (that's not a counterfeitable product per se).

If you're changing fluid due to wrong type, You may want to consider draining the old coolant, rigging a waterhose up and flushing that way, with water on and the engine running, with the understanding you're going to fully drain the tap water after anyway, and even if 10-15% water was left behind in the block, once it mixes with the new coolant I don't believe it matters whether distilled or tap water. If you're on well water, I'd have a different take, but city/municipal water? Knock yourself out.

Do yourself a favor. Before you take off the old hoses, marry the new hoses up to the old ones. The passenger side hose is directional IIRC and the shape is similar, so much that it gets installed backwards often, and subsequently gets rubbed by belt/pulley. Mark the radiator side on the new hose with white-out or a paint marker so there's no guesswork when you go to install later.

 

Yesterday I installed the LSPV extension bracket that @shifty` recommend. I went with the one YotaMaster sells. This kit says it's good for lifts of 2-2.5" in the rear. I never ordered one in the past because I'm not lifted anywhere close to that.

I hopped in the truck this morning and fired it up to back out of the garage. First thing I noticed is that the pedal travels further than before. I let out a few cuss words thinking I should have left it alone.

Then weird things happened. I start driving the truck and checking the brakes. It was immediately obvious the rear brakes are doing more work. I actually got the rear tires to chirp on dry pavement during hard braking. That has never happened.

I'm pretty confused as to why the pedal feels worse but happy with how well it brakes. I'm unsure if I should mess with the adjustment on the prop valve or leave it be. Still amazed how finicky these brakes can be and how important it is the rear are dialed in perfectly.

 

Worth a bleed to make sure there are no trapped air bubbles in the lspv or rear lines. Also worth making sure the rears are adjusted so the drum is dragging ever so slightly. With the adjustment to more rear bias, perhaps the rears need some tune up.