RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

@RainMan_PNW Thanks for posting a download for your final front Camera Shim design. I'm going to have one of our mechanical engineers print a couple for me tonight.

 

I do need to get my mini maxtrax mounted for when shit really gets gnarly (the ones on the left)

 

I still haven’t found where to buy them at

 

Large one for SCX6?

 

The little ones
https://a.co/d/6aUeqhn

The bigger ones

$9 INJORA 2PCS Plastic Sand Ladder Recovery Board for 1:10 RC Crawler TRX-4 Axial SCX10 Tamiya CC01 MST CFX

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WZY96YN

 

My Google-fu said that’s an 1:6 RC car (I don’t own any). The bigger ones are technically 1:10 but probably close enough. I can’t remember if I gave them to a friend or put them on my “Lego” FJ40 at the office…
The little ones are 1:24 scale.

 

Alpine iLX-F511 floating screen head unit install, care of the great HU rush of 2023.
Fully detailed thread on options and other considerations.

She's in!


Earlier this afternoon when testing connections.


What a fucking rat's nest, and there's no good way to clean it up. The way Alpine does the connections on this thing is nuts. One harness I don't need anything in except the microphone connection. And the camara connectors requiring extra dongles, or having 4' long USB ports...there's a lot of extra crap back there that simply shouldn't be there. Whatever - it's done (for now).


Here are my thoughts and notes on the specifics that I did that might help others (though I'm pretty sure I'm late in this game).

I have a 2021 TRD Pro CrewMax w/ JBL Audio. I set up the system using the factory JBL amp, speakers, and subwoofer. Sometime in the future I will swap that stuff out, but for now this is all I'm going to tackle.

• I have the factory rear camera
• I have a Natika front camera - wire the trigger lead at the RCA jack to the Amp Turn On lead that is taped/heat-shrinked on the Maestro harness
• I used the
  $34 "Dasaita 2Din Dash Kit for Toyota Tundra 2014-2021 w/Metal Brackets & Multi Installation Kit - Upgrade Your Truck's Audio & Tech!"
  Dasaita dash kit, and will eventually figure out something to cover off the single DIN section that isn't closed in.
• I put this screen protector on the unit to reduce fingerprints and glare.
• For HDMI and USB-2 (the grey USB) I used this dual-purpose port, and put it in the center console to replace what I had in there before. The 6-ft cable leaves plenty of space, but a 3' might be cutting it close. I routed the cables along side the shifter in the center hump, then out that side trim along the left side of the AC box and up into the radio space high along the top vents.
• I did not bother with a SiriusXM tuner (I don't use it)
• PAC Audio TR1 for Video in Motion bypass - follow the wiring shown in the second diagram in this post
  
• For Radio Integration components
  • Maestro RR2 (bluetooth programmed, and I may add one of the extra controls at some point) - flashed to use the factory amp (connects two RCAs to the front L/R amp pre-outs) and followed the wiring instructions for it
  • Maestro HRN-HRR-TO3 harness "plug-and-play"
  • Maestro Alpine harness ACC-HU-ALP1
  • Metra 40-LX11 radio antenna adapter - and I made sure to wire the blue power cable that comes with it to the power antenna wire on the Maestro harness
  • Maestro ACC-USB-TO3 to retain factory USB port
    
  • Discount Car Stereo SUMI-CT21 to retain factory GPS antenna
  • Enfig Car Stereo MIC-TOY1 microphone that clips into the pre-2019 microphone location in the overhead console
  • Alpine KCX-CAM1 for connecting the front camera RCA to the Alpine harness

I used VHB double-sided tape to mount the Maestro unit on top of the head unit. I put the HU in the bottom mounting position, and then lowered the screen one set of screw holes from where it shipped from factory (I believe the manual referred to this as the -15mm position).

Connect the green/white "speed" wire pigtail from the Alpine secondary harness to the Maestro HU adapter harness.

The WHITE antenna is GPS. The BLACK antenna is SiriusXM. They are the same shape.

Plug everything else in.

You will have these three factory connectors that do not hook to anything. They are part of the Navigation system ECU, which is the LOWER part attached under the factory head unit.


A picture of the mic location in the overhead console


Do your best to shove everything up and to the sides behind the new head unit while you slide it into place. Hope like hell you didn't forget anything (I forgot to install the HDMI retainer...), and hope even more that nothing got pinched, clipped, or otherwise disconnected.

Then fire it up and give it a test! I also downloaded the 5.0.001 firmware to USB and updated that as well.

The navigtation "page" in the instrument cluster is still there, but it is blank.
And the Toyota app (I subscribe to the basic remote start/lock function) still shows vehicle status, fuel tank, mileage, etc. and can remotely lock/unlock the doors and remote start. Looking at the wiring, the black/white connector that is not used in the aftermarket/Maestro setup is what connects the DCM module to the head unit, so I would expect that the SOS button function won't work because the DCM module won't have a microphone or speakers it is connected to at all. That black/white connector is also what connects the Navigation ECU to the factory head unit, so that's likely why the navigation page in the instrument cluster is blank.

 

Also pulled out the FRAC harness (not needed with the new HU), so I'll be getting that listed up for sale here maybe tomorrow...

 

Wow, @RainMan_PNW, I’m thinking of the same installation, Trail Grid Pros, has the bundle, and it’s PnP, now my interest is up.

 

Got my

$9 Dilwe 2pcs RC Sand Ladder, RC Plastic Recovery Ramps Board Compatible with 1/24 1/18 RC Car(Orange)

recovery boards up on the roof rack
#maxtraxmicrocrew
(Gotta look close)

 

Also took an overhead shot Friday when out in the Willamette Valley sampling fermented grapes

 

Hdmi retainer doesn’t work very well with the batage (or however you spell it) hdmi cable anyway. batage put a fat male connector on it so the retainer won’t fully wrap around. At least mine didn’t, but I also bought mine 2+ years ago. Maybe they did a redesign but I doubt it

 

Good to know. I wasn't overly concerned about it anyway.

 

I had to trim a little bit of the plastic off and then the retainer fit fine. Probably low chance of the hdmi coming out, but figured it’s better to screw up a $15 cable than have to pull apart the dash again.

 

Good idea. I just hooked it around as far as it would go and tightened it down. Got a nice side hug going

 

So how’s the wind noise with those antler mirrors and the roof rack on top?

 

honestly, don't notice it. The exhaust and the radio take care of that!

 

Food for thought if considering lighting for your rack. Heck of a lot easier than running wires..
https://www.niterider.com/collections/cycling/products/pivot-pro-320-hands-free-lighting-system

bonus is you can mount a GoPro to it too for those sweet action shots

 

These are way mo betta. 80V for the win!!!!!

$85 Greenworks Pro 80V (AC/DC) 2500-Lumen LED Work Light, Tool Only

https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-2...=&hvlocphy=9032024&hvtargid=pla-1721496145905

 

Ok, so after a 3-day, 800 mile loop through Oregon this week with the radio off for most of it, I will say there were spots it was noticeable. Cruising down the highway with calm air - I didn’t notice any difference. But on narrow mountain roads when a semi or log truck would haul ass the other direction, you could hear the wind noise. And with some steady winds hitting us in different areas (like the OR coast) it was more noticeable than just driving in the same wind without the rack.
Still worth it for me though.

 

That seems tolerable. I was more worried about some screaming chicken whistle on the highway. That would set me off

 

Switched out my cargo light bulbs for VLEDs No RF Noise 5500K 921 bulbs since one of the older ones I had installed wasn’t as bright as the other side.

also swapped the third brake light for the high output red 921

 

Quick update on the roof rack - swapped out the raw SS hex head mounting bolts for black SS flanged button head bolts
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rainmans-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-28#post-3325665

 

First actual steps of the comms install. This post will be dedicated to the radio install, while a future post will be dedicated to the antenna installation.

I’m blatantly stealing all the best ideas from @TRDFerguson and @BiggHertz (who Jake got most of his install ideas from anyway) with this setup, but am doing a few of my own tweaks.

My plan is an Icom IC-2730a radio mounted in the center console. The faceplate will mount off the Rago dash plate. I’ll bury a duplexer on the back hinge mechanism of the center console, and then route the two antenna lines out the firewall, up the passenger side of the windshield, and to the back of the roof rack where they will connect to NMO bases on the rearmost cross bar. I’ll pass the icom mic connection through my one remaining blank below the AC controls. And the external speaker will go where my dash center speaker is now.

First step (because it required the least amount of tearing things apart) was to mount up the face plate to the MB-5 magnetic face plate kit and install it on the Rago. I went for the 67D 20mm “Diamond Plate Alternative” for the ball side at the Rago and a short AMPS plate with clamps set up. These things are no joke!

I attached the flat plate to the AMPS plate using some 8-32 x 3/8” flat head screws and flat nuts because they self center in the larger AMPS plate holes, and locked it down to the Rago with 10-24 x 1/2” button head screws.

The whole setup, mounted in the front set of holes in the Rago, sits just above the Alpine screen. I’ll have to run the cable for it when I tear everything else apart for the radio install.

 

Looks good mounted up there. Love those 67d products

You planning on doing the KC wire hider? If so, it comes pretty dang close on the passenger side when the wiper is moving. Obviously the ends of the wire hider are more prone to come free. My wiper hasn’t caught the wire hider on the upswing yet, but it’s probably a matter of time. Driver side is no problem and doesn’t affect visibility at all. I’m in need of new wiper blades anyway so will be going an inch shorter on passenger side just for peace of mind

 

Good to know
I’m still researching

 

Are you running spacers? I’m debating between 295s and 285s.

 

Nope
Stock Pro wheels and UCA’s
there’s not much room to spare, but there is enough.

 

Did a little researching on the dual USB-C port and the USB-A/USB-C ports that are out there for other Toyota vehicles that should fit where the dual USB-A port is in the 2020/2021 trucks, after getting the idea from @luxury4play

I've got a few parts on order now to report my findings back.

Stay tuned...