Let's play what did I break and where do I get one...

Taking the valve cover bolts off and snapped this fuel line. What is it called and where can I order one?
Goes down into this

Also two of my valve cover bolts snapped off in the process even though I was being very gentle. One broke on the other side this weekend and took me hours to tap new threads. I soaked them in liquid wrench before I closed up for the night. What would be the best way to get them out?

 

For the bolts, drill and reverse-thread ez-out if you can't clamp onto them w/vise grips and twist out. @txagg is the king of that, I think he had to drill like half of his out.

On the fuel line, I don't have the number for your truck, but you can look it up here, 1st few bullet points: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

 

For the stuck bolts, I’d either try double nutting them and backing them out, or welding a nut onto the stud (with everything on the open valve train covered) and backing them out, hoping the heat would assist with removal as well.

 

Thank you! Looks like it's this part.
01 77277A 23803-0F020 01 08.2004 HOSE, FUEL, NO.1 (FOR RETURN TUBE, NO.1)

 

Fortunately it looks like it's still available and not too expensive (under $50). Your local stealership can probably get it in within 24-48 hours.

 

Ouch on the fuel line!

I did notice in 2005 there they did a good job of mounting the fuel line a few inches above the fender well instead of on it like mine. Someone must've had the foresight it would rust there and spring a leak. Kind of like mine did!

 

I don't have a welder so I will probably have to go with the double nut. Saturday I managed to snap an easy out which was an awful experience.

 

A tool if you have it which I would recommend is the Milwaukee right angle impact or their stubby M12 gun set at the lowest setting. I know it works great on rusted fasteners no bigger than 10 mm.

 

The stupid thing was it happened while I was taking out the spark plug. I barely tapped it and then I smelled gas. So here we are, another trip to the stealership lol

 

Yeah, that's a pain in the ass, those things are hardened steel. I did that on an exhaust manifold on a '95 Civic HB. TWICE! Two different bolts, two different EZ outs. I never ended up getting one of them out.

I mean, it may've already been cracked, and you may've just saved yourself from burning the truck down. "Miracles never cease", they say.

 

I'm going to go on the record on here and tell you to just snap them off and drill them out. They are made of veal, and are welded in. I tried a map torch, welder, and all kinds of other stuff. Drill those hoes out. I had the same one on each side F me.

 

Just make sure you cover the internals of the head so you don't get metal shavings in there

 

Think of it this way, Dorman probably sells a repair fuel line connector kit (they make them for many other manufacturers). And if they do, it will probably cost around $25 AND be 4x the hassle and 3x as crappy... it it will work though (if they do indeed make a repair line kit).

 

I just ordered the fuel line from my local stealership. He says the warehouse is showing one in stock so hopefully I'll have it tomorrow.

With regards to the bolt I'm going to give the double nut method one try. Those remaining bolt pieces have been soaking in liquid wrench all night so hopefully it will help but otherwise they will suffer a painful extraction.

 

Good news! I'm not sure if there are any special releases for the fuel stuff where you are. Part of me hates dicking with fuel lines on modern vehicles because you never know what kind of specialty clips you may encounter to release the line. Be careful not to brake more stuff.

In looking at your pictures on a larger screen, you're a lucky dog, you have so much extra shaft available to you to play with. I'd probably double-nut high up on the shank, leaving 2-3 threads above. You won't be able to concentrate as much torque at the base and may snap off again, but at least you'll still have a bit of shank to work with if the shank snaps. You may be able to do this 2x times before you're at the base and on your last try. If you have a hand torch, even a creme brulee torch in the kitchen or something, you can also try heating the head around the fastener and quench with penetrating oil before getting started.

I don't think I realized how much rust you have under your hood. I thought I was looking at @Jack McCarthy's truck for a sec

 

That's called the Jersey paint job good sir. It's custom!

 

PETA disapproves.