2001 Tundra lost all power on hwy and coasted to a stop

honestly, on the topic of mechanics, if your dude told you the timing belt broke and your engines totaled without any real verification such as visually seeing the damage that you’re leaving out, then you got bigger problems on your hands lol…

espically if you bought a new truck over it

In any case, if there is hope, I’d take it to a seperate shop to see if they say the same. 2 mechanics saying the same thing might be good enough for me to say my goodbyes

 

@empty_lord what is the best way to confirm if a broke timing belt actually grenaded the engine? Mechanic is saying yes without actually checking the valves.

 

I trust the guy but I will ask if he can show me….I imagine it has to be on a lift to see it??

 

Bore scope or try tossing a belt on.

 

I can ask my pal to do this since he is guna do a timing belt on my sons 2000 tundra. Thanks!

 

The likely hood of valve contact is lower on the 00-04 engines. So it’s worth a shot. That being said a bore scope with a mirror attachment could see if valves are fully seated or not. The last option is to pull the valve Cover and remove the cam to check if any valves appear lower than the others

 

Running the wife’s Honda Pilot in for a timing belt rt now. I’m so bugging out bout these damn belts!! Lol

 

This.

And also this.

 

My pal wud be willing to attempt the fix…around $450….if it goes thru the complete fix without discovering on the way that it’s toast….&…..if all is good n I can sell it for $3-4k…that’s a considerable profit!!

 

honestly, even if its toast, if your frame is in excellent shape, you maybe could get a decent chunk for that alone.

 

Frame was replaced bout 3 yrs ago for recall. Tires are good too!

 

The “timing belt hanging” comment would be because once the belt snaps and isn’t under tension, it can be literally hanging from the cam gears and tensioners. Some of them will wad up at the bottom of the cover

 

Update from mechanic who inspected it…he said he turned crankshaft and heard some smacking/clacking….I guess that’s valves….he said at 60 mph when it happened there is a high probability it’s toast. I’m not guna spend anymore money on it.

 

PSA for all,

Don’t forget to turn off your headlights when you leave the car lol

Sincerely, Atomicnugget


Srsly after all this talk about dead engines my butthole puckered up when I had a dead crank just now

 

Mine automatically turn off the moment I open the drivers door, as long as the key is out of the ignition. Are the earlier models not the same?

 

You know…not sure cause I usually manually turn it off but I would guess so. Maybe it’s worth one day to stand outside to see if it auto shuts off but considering I saw that bad boy was still on when I was looking for reasons. Haven’t been dealing with parasitic draw so my only explanation for now.

 

It's instantaneous for me. Stop, put it in park, turn it off and pull the key, the second the door switch triggers and turns on the courtesy/dome light the headlights also shut off.

 

I’ll prob try it later today, still letting the car run for a while to let the alternator do the work, pretty sure she still got a ton of life left in her.

if what your saying doesn’t work then I guess my next project will be diagnosing why that feature is broken

 

@shifty` Confirmed this year does have the feature via owners manual..



On second thought, I’m maybe thinking it’s time for a new battery as per my manual my gauge might be at the brink of acceptable limits…. unless it’s one of those things where for majority of tundras it falls closer to the bottom limit, can anyone show me where theirs sits?

this is mine now with engine on, no lights, nothing plugged in, and in idle.

 

Your batt gauge looks normal to me.

meanwhile does the interior light turn on when you open the driver door?

 

guessing the radio didn’t like the dead battery, now is making a series of clicking sounds like it’s trying to load something after restarting the car.. idk much about electronics tho, does this thing have a reset button?

Edit. Def the radio, I can replicate the noise when trying to “eject” a cd and the display shows “ ERR 3”. Also the lights def turn off when I turn off the car regardless of position 2 or 3 so idk what caused the drain.

yeah I have the dome lights set to door and it seems to work fine. For the headlight knob, wats the difference between position 2 and position 3, aka the solid line and the one right above it?

 

Ugh ERR 3 sucks. My 6-disc OEM changer threw that when it quit being able to process more than one disc. I remember initially trying to find a solution, didn't find one; there is a place online that resells our OEM stereos (if you're a purist/masochist), could try seeing if they will take yours off your hands for $50 bucks, they never answered me.

 

whats the err 3 mean? I’m mean everything is else works as I only use it for radio. Just trying to get rid of the annoying whirring clicking sounds I get every start up now

 

I forget, @atomicnugget, I don't have my serial no. handy but I essentially googled that and "ERR 3" and got a bunch of results. It's some kind of error in the tray lifting/lowering mechanism. You have the 6-disc, too? We have the same truck so maybe you do. DON'T put a CD in there, you might not get it back. RIP, burned copy of Coldplay X&Y I had since college.

 

That is also in the 2003 Owners Manual. If you need the pdf version, it's in that thread shifty is always posting or....here

 

Yea I think my only hope is to remove the actual radio and unscrew it to manual remove any discs.. or just ignore the 10 second noise each time. Idk why it happened to break upon a dead battery it’s not like I was using the radio when I started it up

 

Before you do that, with the truck OFF (key out) hold down the Eject button, then insert the key and turn to ON, but not all the way to start. Continue holding the Eject button for 10 seconds after turning ON.

This is a semi-universal force-eject sequence on a number of stereos out there.

 

Nope, still stuck and still getting the sound.

Also thinking my battery is shot, after testing the lights auto shut off function several times with success, thats the only explaination I have for my battery dying in a matter of the morning hours.

 

That problem would also happen if you weren't getting enough voltage.

Many radios with changers in them go through a diagnostic sequence at startup, which includes validating which slots are populated.

 

@shifty` well it’s definitely the battery LMAO or an aftermath of what happened, either way I think it’s time to retire the shitty gold craft