Cv axle boots

LMAO! I figured you'd seen that. Shit, I'd have bought them prior to starting this thread if they shipped at 40 bucks.
Doesn't someone on here have a write-up with photos on their axle removal etc? @KarmaKannon maybe. For some reason I can't search that handle. I swear I saw it yesterday but having trouble locating it again..

 

I think I've written the process out a few times... let me look.

If not, I'll write it out. I think I can do a swap in 20 min lol

EDIT: Here you go... sorry no photos. Your "small" LBJ bolts are 17mm I think, My 2001 has the small bj's. Also, you don't have to disconnect the tie-rod ends or the full steering knuckle, but I definitely recommend taking off the caliper to reduce the weight of the knuckle when you suspend it off to the side.

The job is super easy, in my opinion, the hardest part was finding a socket to fit the axle shaft (35mm if OEM, probably 41mm for 3rd party)...this is all off memory, but:

- Get a small bucket or something to collect the gear oil that will spill from the front diff.
- Lift truck up, use jack stands, take the tire off.
- Take off dust cover, use flat head screw driver.
- Break the axle nut loose (you can pull the center cap off the rim, put the wheel back on, and lower to use the trucks weight for assistance if it's really stuck or if you don't have an impact).
- Take off the 4 lower ball joint bolts (14mm).
- Disconnect the outer tie rod from the lower ball joint (19mm, or 7/8 if 3rd party), if you have a 3 jaw or tie rod puller, use it, or you can thread the nut back on a bit and give it a few good whacks. Might be easy enough to remove by hand, though.

Personally, I'd just take off the steering knuckle to make it easier overall. Good practice if/when you go to do the UCA's.
- Remove brake line bracket bolt on steering knuckle (10mm or 12mm). Or your year has the ABS bracket on the spring, same idea.
- Take the brake caliper off (17mm) and suspend caliper off to the side on the frame with tie wire or bungee.
- Loosen bolt on upper ball joint (19mm I think), but don't take off the nut all the way off, use the 3 jaw puller or hammer whacks to break the ball joint loose from the UCA **make sure to secure the steering knuckle to the spring with a bungee for safety, that SOB is heavy**.
- Remove steering knuckle and set aside. Take note of the condition of the seals and wheel bearing

Back to removing the CV.
- Get another bungee, suspend the CV off the spring to try and keep it level as you pull the axle out, not too tight 'cause you still need to rotate the CV.
- There should be enough room to get a small/medium prybar in-between the CV housing and differential housing. Rotate the axle and use gentle, but firm "prys" as you do. You'll eventually find the sweet spot and the axle will be free!
- Pull the axle out and take care to not to damage the axle seal
- Make sure to grab the metal dust cover (might still be in the diff housing) and note the orientation for reinstall. Don't forget to put it back on!
- Grab new axle, the shaft with the clip goes in the diff, and get the splines lined up. Hook the bungee back up to keep it level and slowly slide the axle in until the dust cover is flush with the diff housing. You might feel resistance when you 1st get the splines lined up, but give the axle housing a tap with a drift and, if it slides you're good to go.

 

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove dust cover over axle nut
3. 35mm socket to loosen axle nut, stick a screw driver or punch in the holes of your brake rotor and let that hit the caliper to help you break the nut loose.
4. Remove the four LBJ bolts so you can grab the brake rotor, spin it around, and push the axle out of the bearing.






5. Get a beefy screwdriver or pry bar and place in between the differential and axle opening.



6. Once you get the CV out, cut the clamp for the boot on the differential side of the axle. There is a snap-ring on the joint itself, and if you open it up the joint and outer tulip should be able to slide out. (Note: I'm not talking about the c-clip on the splines that go into the diff).

In my experience, I haven't had much trouble getting the joint to come off the shaft once the snap-ring is spread. I've heard of some people needing to knock the joint off with force when the snap-ring is spread.




7. With the differential side CV joint removed and off the axle shaft, you can cut off the wheel-side boot. Then install a new wheel side boot first, then the diff side. Don't try separating the wheel-side CV joint.

Once the wheel-side boot is on, you have to open that snap ring to get the diff-side joint back on the axle shaft. Once it's back on, load the boots up with grease and clamp 'em.

 

Dealer here in NJ with free shipping. Not getting any $40 deals here lol

 

Cheapest I can manage to eek out within 2 hours drive from of Atlanta is $79.76/ea at World Toyota. I'd do it if I had some acceptable cores.

But the site is also saying these won't fit my vehicle. Although I double-checked and the original part is definitely 43430-0C010, so 43430-0C010-84 should be 100% correct.

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As @des2mtn said - from Toyotapartsdeal: "Your order has been voided because of the following reason(s): The ordered part(s) have been discontinued (no longer available) and/or is backordered with no ETA date by the manufacture."

Some area dealer sites show availability - called the local dealer, no stock and none at depot. System showed 3 @ Boch (Boston) but web site showed none. Called and they had 2 on the shelf, which they updated the site for the order.

$70 ea.

Contemplating getting a couple of junkyard axles for the cores as mine just need boots right now so it might make sense to keep them. Thoughts?

 

This works for the passenger side that's a PITA to get out because of the clip that is inside the diff correct? different way of same process I assume.

Thanks a ton.

 

Both axles have a c-clip on the diff side that holds the axle into the differential and they both come out the same way. You have to pry on the the axle, maybe give the pry bar a smack with the hammer, and make the clip on the splines compress to get it out.


You want to be a little cautious of how you pry out and not mangle the axle seal in the diff though. Pry outwards on the CV and the screwdriver can hit the lip of the diff housing. You can see where my pry bar has rested before.

 

Yep, get your pry bar in-between there (diff housing and axle housing, tip of pry bar on the CV, like des said) and rotate the axle as you pry. You need to be gentle, but firm when prying (if that makes sense), and you'll know when you hit that sweet spot.

 

Ok, so that black piece in his last post is the seal i'm trying not to destroy? I'll climb under mine in a min. So, this prying and tapping essentially just pops the little clip past where it sits to get the axle out correct?

 

Correct. Well that and the C-clips, you use too much force and break those in the diff and you're gonna have a bad time.

The seal is recessed in the diff housing, so as long as the tip of the pry bar is on the cv housing, it shouldn't hurt the seal. What will hurt the seal are the splines of the shaft (if you drag it over the seal as you remove or install) and the weight of the axle itself (if you accidentally drop the shaft on it and squish it).

 

Sweet! Thats where i plan on using a bungee or ratchet strap to help support that weight. I think you guys suggested this too. probably a ratchet so it doesnt have the opportunity to stretch and sag. Thanks a ton. It's not like I haven't watched all the videos, just sometimes actual experience with the same vehicle helps also.

 

Update:

Order the remans yesterday. Got a voicemail from the parts guy today saying that they don't want the old ones back and they credited the core charge, so Toyota is done with rebuilds.

@metalpete & @des2mtn - thanks for the directions, looks pretty straight forward and is sounds easier to pry them out instead of hammer/drift as in the FSM.

 

No problem @Richid , happy to help.

Also, done with rebuilds?! Makes me want to call and get a credit for my core charges

 

Awesome. I just got the boots and grease I ordered today, inner boot which I need to replace because of rip is a good rubber quality outer boots seem more plastic-type.material. grease is same on both kits both packets have same part #..so I guess the grease doesn't matter anymore like videos show 2 different types?
Where did you end up ordering from @Richid ? Have they actually shipped? I so would've got remans but just couldn't find anything obviously from my previous posts on this thread.

Edit: I forgot to add that apparently my year truck doesn't have the type of axle nut that requires being set with a punch like we see in most videos. Picked up 2 new ones today from local stealership double checked when I saw the thickness, he showed the diagram on his screen. I really couldn't remember from last time I was that far in the hub so.i just took them anyway. Appear to be 35mm, measures about 1-3/8".

 

@Hi06silver - I saw some reman listed on the dealer websites so I called my local dealer. The local dealer saw that the depot stock was empty and a ton of backorders, but it showed that Boch Toyota had 3. The parts guy down there said they have them and he would update the 'discount, ship only' site so I could order them. They accidentally cancelled my order and when I called back, he said he pulled the 2 they had on the shelf and put them in shipping. Created a new order and they shipped today. That's when they left the VM saying that Toyota doesn't want any more cores back and to keep them.

So - if anyone is thinking about getting remans, you should probably call around now before they're all gone as it looks like whatever is in dealer stock is all there is.

 

Welp, order up y'all - this is the next part Toyota is gonna discontinue... @Richid, better hold onto the old ones!

 

Thanks for the help! This. Job. Sucks.
I will hunt for remans forever after this. For my first go round I am getting my ass kicked I'd say. Finally go the fucker out of the front diff but damn it didn't come easy. Had to use a big concrete block chisel and 5lb sledge to pop it out...then the job being messy as fuck made that snap ring super fun being as I couldn't hold on to anything even after trying to clean up and multiple pairs of gloves. Holy shit what a mess LMAO!

 

Did you start with the passenger side first?!

 

Yessir. That was the side that was split flinging the most. I'll get it all back together and do the other side next week or so.

You asking makes me feel I made something harder on myself....

 

I may have it backwards, but I swear the passenger side if supposed to be the worst of the two, by quite a margin. For your sake, I'm hoping I'm right.

 

It's not a fun task, but I don't think one side is harder than the other... just finding that sweet spot on the differential side can be really frustrating, especially when all you want is to hurry up and get it done!

I'm not envious of you doing the boots. Never done it and never want to lol.

 

LMAO. I don't see how it can be a whole hell of a lot harder on the other side. It's not horrible it's just damn messy. That other side will have to wait till I get new new lower ball joint bolts and I feel up to the mess again.

 

There's reference to needing a slide-hammer with a hook (or something) to remove the driver's side cv, but I've never needed to use one.

 

Just posting a follow up. Dealer called back and said Toyota doesn't want the cores back, so 2 for $185 including shipping. Put them in a few weeks ago.

If anyone see this, follow @metalpete 's instructions. I didn't remove the spindles, but used an old piece of rope to support the axle - then a small pry bar to 'bump' out the axle. One was kind of stuck but it popped free after a couple of small turns. You shouldn't need to use a slide hammer or adapter.

 

Sweet! Where'd you order from?

 

Boch in Boston had two sitting on the shelf. Had to call so they could update the inventory on the web site so I could get the discounted price.

 

Yeah, sorry I just reread the older post where you said that same thing. Awesome it all went your way that's a pretty good price!

 

Glad it worked out for you!

 

Are these boot stretcher tools a gimmick, or legit? Like, am I missing something or could you replace your inner boots on perfectly good axles w/o having to pull the actual axle out of the diff?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKjnYVGFmsE​