Rough suspension

Hello everybody,

I've checked some of the threads on this but haven't found what I'm looking for. I've been driving around my new to me 03 Tundra and I've noticed that the suspension is really stiff. There aren't clunks or anything when going over bumps, just not much give. Was the ride on these just really stiff or should I start with greasing things and then go from there? The only thing I've really noticed is a quick squeak or so when taking off from a dead stop.

 

Is the suspension stock? I’ve never heard anyone say these ride stiff if it’s stock.

 

If there was an issue like that with these trucks, it would definitely be in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

But I've never heard such a thing.

Greasing doesn't help with shock stuff, it helps with driveline clunks and vibrations. Can you please post some pics of your shocks out back, and for your front suspension, two clear shots, one from in front and back of each side?

To post pics, all you gotta do is drag-and-drop the image into the reply box, or use the "Upload a file" button.

There's a solid chance we may see something obvious in the pics.

Also, what's the mileage on the truck?

 

@shifty` I've attached some pics of the suspension, let me know if you need more. I've also attached a picture of what I think is causing the squeak at takeoff. It's the piece that holds up the two drive shafts.

The truck has 338,000 miles on it.

 

The “thing connecting the driveshafts” is the carrier bearing. The symptoms you describe could be caused by it. If you get a replacement, and plan to install it, consult with folks here first before buying the part and installing, you’ll get all the help and warnings you need.

You’re at 338k … when was the last time your shocks were replaced? Any of them?

 

No idea honestly. I've only had it for a few hundred miles. I can ask the guy that had it before me but I'm not sure they were replaced when he had it. I did see that the sway bar bushings are bad.

 

Rough ride is likely a combination of bad bushings and worn out shocks. Yours appears to have the TRD package judging by the coils. New 4600 or 5100 Bilsteins all around and new bushings for the arms and leafs will likely smooth things out. And yeah, that carrier bearing looks pretty saggy. Probably worn out which would cause driveline vibration. Essentially that truck is suffering from maintenance neglect.

 

Well, I see the frame has a significant amount of rust. Is it rusted through anywhere? Not that this would have anything to do with your situation or anything.

It's almost cliché at this point, but ... your driver's side valve cover is leaking.

Like any truck, the solid rear axle makes bumps harsh. It's the nature of the beast when you don't have independent suspension. But beyond that, some more questions:

Do you see any evidence of branding (name brands, part numbers) on the rear shocks? They look like KYB which was the non-TRD offering. But it looks like you have the blue/yellow Bilsteins in front, which was a TRD offering. Maybe one is original, other is not.

Do you see any evidence leaks on the rear or shocks?

When you look at the lower shock mounts, back and front, do the rubber bushings (inserts) look plump, crack-free, and equally thick all-around, or are they all cracked up and jammed thin on one side?

If you stand on the rear bumper and jump up and down, how does it feel, any noise?

Regarding pics of the front ... Can you take a couple of photos like this, so we can see the entire front strut, its lower bushing, and the steering components?

​

 

Showing off that sexy new suspension

 

I mean ... it's what I've got handy

 

Working on getting more pics but to answer some of the questions.....

The only thing that's super rusty is that there are two patches maybe about 1 foot x 1 foot in the bed that are rusted through. The frame was replaced under the recall, I'm not sure how long ago. It had the limited badging on it and the TRD sticker for what it's worth . The back bumper feels good when I jump up and down on it. No squeaks.

 

I will say all the mounts look pretty bad. They might not be all squished to one side but the rubber is cracked and dry for sure. See pics below....

 

The frames and attached structural components which are the biggest rust concern.

Here's what I'd tell you.

First and foremost, when Toyota replaces the frame, they don't always replace a lot of other stuff, like swaybar links, upper and lower control arms, knuckles, springs etc. That's why all of your front suspension parts are gnarly like that. If some of those words don't make sense, or you don't know what the suspension parts are, check this reply out (and the replies that follow it in that thread) so we can all be talking the same language:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-plan-out-suspension-tires-part-of-build.128410/#post-3277935

That said, I don't think your swaybar bushings look too bad. And your lower strut/shock mount bushings look fairly OK in the pic you shot. The strut/shock itself looks pretty much f'ed up though, and those may be the original springs. I'm guessing your upper control arm bushings are blown. I wouldn't be surprised if the lower control arm bushings are also. but that said ...

If I were you, I'd give you some short and long term advice:

Short term, to hopefully resolve your immediate problems:

• Refresh the struts, springs, and rear shocks; I recommend this kit to get you a nice OEM ride (you could also get just the struts alone for around $600, but ... pay once, cry once, smile the next 100k miles; those springs are probably tiiiiiiiiired!

Long term, if you plan to keep this truck:

• Start getting the frame coated with Fluid Film, Woolwax or similar; find a shop near you unless you want to DIY. If DIY, read the labels and warnings!
• Start looking at replacing your upper and lower control arms - avoid Mevotech brand for the lowers; see this thread for options
• Get a good replacement swaybar link (I like these).
• I can't see your lower ball joints, but I recommend evaluating; if you replace, only use OEM parts for this specific item!!!! (Don't let anyone sway you otherwise)

 

Those front shocks look Jurassic era.
Step one: make sure the truck is worth keeping as it pertains to the rust situation.
Step two: replace the shocks, those are beat.
Step three: replace bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends.

 

I'm tempted to send the dude my old OEM upper control arms and swaybar links. They're all four in great shape and zero rust. Those knuckles are pretty well f'ed also.

 

Update: did the brakes tonight. The two bolts holding the caliper in for the drivers side snapped off in the steering knuckle. We were able to drill and tap the holes but a new steering knuckle is now on the radar.

Slowly but surely......

 

With the level of rust in the peripheral stuff, you may have it happen a few more times. May want to proactively start hitting things with the Kroil or PB now...

 

Same boat as you. I just picked up an 03 a few months ago and it has the fox 2.5 coilover up front and the 2.0 rear shock. Good god does it ride rough. I'm chalking it up to a lighter truck with an inherently stiff rear shock, but even with low expectations I wasn't expecting it to be this jarring.

 

Yep, you definitely need new shocks and check your LCAs for any tears in their rubber bushings, you may need new ones there as well. As a fellow member who waits to the last minute to change out bad items, I've been where you are with the rough ride. Most of it was definitely the shocks and yours are way overdue. The funny thing is that the shocks would pass the 'bounce' test, so I thought they were still okay. Not true.

If you're going to do that work, you should check out your ball joints (upper and lower) as well to make sure you they're in decent condition, however, you're most likely going to need new LBJs since those are a weak point on our vehicles and they should be replaced with OEM only. Normally, you'll get 80-120K miles out of them. Read up on the horror stories here of people who let them go.

 

I mean, I'll trade you the 75k mile OEM struts I just pulled off my truck for the Fox c/o you have now.

And any other low-mile parts I have leftover, in zero-rust shape.

 

Yep. Going through things a little bit at a time.....

 

New shocks should make the biggest difference.

 

75k damn not bad! I honestly have no idea what stock feels like on these. I’m running these until I have time to drop the truck off to to my fab guy for lower mounts and probably that archive garage rear shock relocation. I have a pair of ADS triple bypasses waiting to go on this truck. Figuring out what LT kit I want to go with too. Haha

 

Well, when the Foxes come off ... if you don't intend to keep them, and they're in solid rebuildable shape, hook a brother up!

 

The bushings on the lower eyelet seem iffy, but as of now I know they're definitely not blown. I'm hoping to have the rears off in the next month or two.

 

Update shocks definitely aren’t blown.
@ZDog377 i just threw on an icon progressive add a leaf and removed the overload spring. Truck rides way better. Granted ride is subjective, but I got more body roll out of it. Not a bad thing for me, but you feel the bumps still but it’s way more compliant and way less jarring. I like go fast off-road stuff so I don’t like my truck handling like a sports car and prefer some give to it. This isn’t perfect but leaps and bounds over where it was at.

 

Just an FYI guys, I created an account on Toyota's website and here are some of the items that showed up:

10/2018 - 273,406
MISC. SERVICE

MISC. SERVICE ~|~REPLACE REAR BUMPER REPLACE REAR SHOCKS REPLACE COMPLETE EXHAUST SYSTEM REPLACE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS REPLACE BODY MOUNTS REPLACE SPARE TIRE CARRIER ~|~REPLACE AND LUBE BELL CRANKS REPLACE ALL FENDER CLIPS MACHINE FRONT ROTORS

7/2006 - 64,762
RECALLS

RECALLS ~|~INSPECT AS PER SSC 50J ~|~DUE TO POSSIBLE BALL JOINT SEPERATION ~|~REPLACED BOTH FRONT LOWER BALL JOINTS AND ALIGN 5522DK

 

The 2006 service was related to service campaign 50J, which was lower balljoint replacement: http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_Campaigns/50Jdeal.pdf

Based on what I see from the 2018 service, that explains why the lower control arms look so much better than the knuckles and uppers.

 

@shifty` for fluid film, you said if DYI read the labels and warnings! just want to pick your brain, aside from the not recommended to spray on rubber parts , may cause swelling ect, anything else you know of in regards to FF?

 

That one is not my wheelhouse but there’s a whole recent thread to that effect over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/aft...t-be-sprayed-for-degradation-concerns.130527/