1st Gen Newbie-Central FL- Need Inside Fuse Box Diagram

I have a 2001 Tundra 4x4 SR5
Looking for the inside fuse box diagram please. Just got her 2 days ago from Biloxi MS-Flew in and drove 10 hours home. I love these trucks!
God Bless
Drew

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Wiring diagrams can be found here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/
Fuse box diagrams can be seen here: https://www.autogenius.info/toyota-tundra-2001-2002-fuse-box-diagram/

 

That's one hell of a brodozer.

This thread should have most of the info you need as a new owner, including links near the top of the 1st reply to all the docs you are hunting, several warnings about common failures and mistakes to avoid, TSBs etc.: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

I'd be interested to see more pics of your suspension setup front/rear.

 

Thank you Bakershack and Shifty! Much Obliqued. I am super grateful to be a part of this group. I been looking for a 1st Gen for a couple of years. Florida prices for a tin can are through the roof. A rust bucket that is bone stock is pullin 9-13k all day, not to mention something with some work. It can 300+K and they still pull crazy cash. Ill send you whatever pics you want Man. Its Needs Valve cover gaskets, and I think rear shocks amongst other stuff. I think I want to POR15 hand paint the frame but will do my research and learn from all of you before I do anything. I appreciate y'all.
Drew

 

If the frame isn't rusted, don't POR it. And wear gloves, that stuff is akin to superglue, bonds instantly with skin.

This forum supports drag-and-drop of pics into the box you type into. Probably the easiest way to load photos. The truck looks unusually high, considering 4" is about the max you can safely get out of these trucks without moving to bracket lifts. I assume they body lifted also.

 

The frame is not rusted. What do you recommend to protect the frame/undercarriage if any? I used POR 15 on other projects and was a fan. It is an 11-inch total lift on 35's with 20-inch rims. Body Lift and Bracket Lift. I may take out the Body Lift but Im just gonna drive it for a while and go from there. I wasn't looking for a super lifted 1st Gen. I wanted one that was well taken care of without rust that I could afford. These trucks are worth their weight in Gold and the prices keep going up. Here in Florida they sell in 2 days or less and command ridiculous money. It is not easy to find one. Took me almost 3 years and 3 States away to grab this Frankenstein. Its poring out. I'll send pics ina bit.

 

If you're in FL, unless you're launching boats in brackish or salt, or driving the beach, you don't really need anything IMHO.

The guys who see the worst issues are the ones who are in the rust belt, where they salt the roads. Anything else would just leave you with superficial surface rust.

That thread I linked will tell you most of what you need to know. Most important things are really timing belt, and LBJs, given yours sounds like a southern truck and potentially hasn't seen salted roads, floods, etc.

 

Yes Sir. I appreciate your wisdom and opinion. I will let it be for now. Your truck is absolutely beautiful. I'm a former small detail shop owner and you doing a phenomenal job. Your Tundra is priceless. I love it!!!!!!
I appreciate all the threads you sent me. My timing/water/etc and LBJs were done 60K ago. Bushing doesn't look good at the moment on one. I Will have to investigate it further. My fog lights do not work and only one of the interior outlets works. The top right outlet I got working by changing a fuse. Also, my cruise control does not work. Do you grease all 3 drive shaft ports? I was only able to access the rear one. My grease gun won't connect to the other two points of contact on the drive shaft. Thanks for your time and help shifty...

 

Foglights: If the truck has LED headlights, this is a known problem discussed in that thread I linked. Look into inline resistors for the headlight circuit. PO (previous owner) was probably unaware.

Zerks: Yes, you need to do them all. One has a special process (slip yoke). There's a special grease tip that'll help, or you can modify your existing tip.

Outlets: Dunno what you mean about outlets - there's a few in the truck.

 

As you may know, there are 2-12vdc power outlets and they are fused separately....a 15amp fuse for each in engine room.

Does the cruise light come on ?

 

Hey BubbaW
This is awesome Man.!!! Thanks so much- I appreciate you. Im a Green Horn. The cruise light does not come on Sir.

Shifty-
I will look into getting the specific grease tip and yes the previous owner went all LEDs including all the interior lights. He had no idea why the fogs stopped working. I will have to look into this thread in detail
God Bless
Drew

 

If memory serves, cruise cannot operate without functioning ABS/wheel speed sensors. First thing I'd check out, seeing the lift that's on that thing.

Classic ...

 

You know your sh-t Shifty. No ABS and No wheel speed sensors...
THANK YOU!

 

My cruise works with abs fuse pulled.

 

Terminology problem. Some folks can't decide if they want to call them wheel speed sensor (WSS) or ABS sensors. It's my understanding - and I'm always open to being wrong - that the wheel speed sensors are used by: ABS, Cruise, SRS. I got hollered at a couple of times for calling the "ABS sensors" "wheel speed sensors" or vice-versa so I just say ABS/WSS or similar now to help avoid creating extra confusion.

I don't believe the ABS circuit powers the WSS, so pulling the fuse shouldn't make the WSS stop working. Seems like, if it did, pulling the ABS fuse would break a lot of other stuff that relies on those sensors.

But it's easy enough for OP to check and see if he has the WSS wiring going up over his UCA, down the knuckle, and is properly installed. If not ... I'm sure that's why cruise isn't working. But again, maybe I'm wrong. I'd be interested to see how the PO of his truck managed to extend the wiring for the WSS if the sensors are there.

 

keep in mind my truck is a 2000. I am sure it is completely different compared to the gen 1.5 you’re driving.

 

Good point.

 

Perhaps if one uses what Toyota uses which is VSS(vehicle speed sensor) in our FSM/EWD, terminolgy would not be a problem. WSS is mentioned no where in our FSM or EWD but would agree many use it interchangeably.

Having said that, it is correct to say if VSS has a problem, cruise control will not work because it requires a precise speed reading.

edit....made a couple checks with Techstream and my Autel which makes me wonder, if indeed there is a actual cruise problem or is bulb burned out, cruise stalk has a problem or even a clock spring problem ??

@BooRoc , you have no Check Engine light correct ?

 

Hey BubbaW
No Check Engine Light Sir. I am grateful for your time. I just replaced 4 fuses under the hood. The 2, 50amp and the 2, 40amps. The cruise light did not come on. I will send pictures of the lift as you guys know these trucks 9 ways to Sunday. Again I appreciate you guys so much. I am more a Grunt/Laborer guy not very technical so apologize if come across bent with terminology and other stuff.

 

There's definitely a body lift on there.

 

Welcome from Central FL (Orange City)

 

Don't want to assume wrongly but did you change them because they were blown ?
Odd fuses to be blowing without having other issues

 

The previous owner took out the 4wd cause he didn't want his son off reading. It has 2005 or 06 front brakes, 4,2,9 gears and something else I'm forgetting.

 

Yes Bubba. They were blown fuses. Ill.go triple check.

 

If my dad ended up removing 4wd so I wouldn't offroad, he would just end up getting me unstuck more often

4.29 isn't a stock ratio, so I'd double check that. Stock on your truck is probably 3.91. If a different gear ratio got installed in the rear while the 4wd was removed, you'll have to change the front ratio too before reinstalling 4wd.

 

thanks alot for the intell. Yes 4.29 was installed in the rear. It's a bit of a frankenstein truck.

 

I mean, based on it's rolling stock I guess what's done kinda it makes sense, but I mean, I'd be worried about the elements getting into nooks and crannies.

Sad part is you can't throw the front CV axles back in without either updating the front gearing to match the rear, or updating the rear to match the front.

For a "frankentruck" though, this is far less hackery than I've seen on others. You could pull the body lift and probably still tuck 35s. I'm not a fan of the pavement princess wheels and rubber band tires, but also know that's what a lot of the suburban and exurban high schoolers are into these days. No judgment from me, it is what it is. Variety is the spice of life.

 

Just curious. What has to be done to the frontend to match the 4,29 gears for 4wd to be hooked up. I will reach out to the previous owner and find out if the front was done as well but I doubt it. He didn't mention that. Thanks for all help!!!