P1441 / P1444

Hello,

I’ve joined to find info on the SAIP issues as pulling codes and my truck is in limp mode. Looking for info on replacing or bypassing.

Thanks!

 

Reset the codes and limp mode will go away for a little while. Any local auto parts store should be able to reset for you. But they'll come back. I recommend getting a cheap code reader if you don't have one so you can clear codes any time the error pops up and get some more miles out of things.

You've got a double cab (no such thing as a crew cab), so I assume you've also got the V8, not the V6. Confirmation would be nice.

As I'm sure you noticed if you bothered searching, there's the SAI pump and valves, and a driver also IIRC. Access to all of it requires taking off the manifold. Because of that, you'll want to go with OEM parts if you choose to replace.

In your case, you're only throwing codes on the valves. Maybe you've got a stuck valve. Maybe the valves aren't getting power/vacuum, I'm not ultra-familiar with that part, but ... read on.

You've got two basic options: (A) you can replace the SAI pump and valves. (B) If legal and/or you are cool with breaking the law, you can install a bypass kit.

If you opt for (A), the upside is you'll probably run another 15-20 years without any issues, your truck remains stock, and you'll never need to worry about adding aftermarket electronics which, unfortunately, can be problematic with any performance add-ons you choose later AND you'll find a plethora of threads on here from guys who've installed the bypass kits and either gotten defective kits or continued randomly throwing codes because the ECU/ECM doesn't like having the bypass installed. Downside, obviously, is the cost and work involved, I'd use a Toyota-specific shop, skip the dealership!

If you opt for (B), you've got a couple options. Rutech makes a kit. Hewitt Tech makes a Gen1 and Gen2 kit, the latter requires some soldering near the ECU, behind the glovebox, 3 wires if I recall, the Gen2 seems to have the most 'random codes afterward' issues and I can't speak to the Rutech. This thread discusses a DIY kit which is basically covering what Rutech and the Hewitt Gen1 are doing. This is some documentation if you're a DIY'er and don't mind pulling together the parts to make your own solution cheaper, but I don't recall if it'll deal with the valves or not.

Anyway, it's worth reading that last link with the DIY info. IIRC, it explains the system so you at least understand what's going on.

 

Not sure if shifty already linked it (tl;dr lol) but there's a sticky on this that may be another jumping-in point.

 

Thanks Shifty and JasonC. It is the v8. I checked the vacuum pressure switches (part name?) that control the valves. It looks like those are only a couple of hundred to replace and I wouldn’t have to remove the manifold. Could I be so lucky? Would both vacuum switches go bad at once? What could cause it…fearful to replace only to have them go out again due to unknown root cause. I cleared codes and am out of limp mode. I’m not into bypass as I live in beautiful California and really don’t want to deal with further issues with faulty bypass kits, etc. If I need to remove the manifold to replace valves I plan to replace all components, pump, valve and IIRC with OEM parts. I’m glad I joined the forum. Your feedback was solid. Thank you.

 

Feel free to hang around, and welcome to the forum.

I don't know the process to replace the SAI valves, I think it may be easier to access those with the manifold off, and if you've got more than 150k-200k miles you've probably done well on the lifetime of the SAI pump, but I'll give you one other piece of advice, @Joromart

Inside this thread, about 5 lines in, you'll find a series of links. One of those is to a service manual for the '05-'06. I highly recommend downloading a copy of that, it should have instructions you'll need to read. Beyond that, you may find other crucial information in that thread to help stretch the life of your 1st Gen.

 

Shifty! Thank you! I was literally just about to order a service manual today! Saved me $35 bucks…now I can put that towards the 2k it will take for fixing SAI pump/components with OEM parts properly. As I plan to kick it down the road till I raise the money (I just smogged it last year) is there any concern to long term damage to other components since the valves are stuck open? I figure back flow on exhaust will damage pump, but truck has 190k on it so as you pointed out…it’s gone the distance. Second question, since I’ll be removing the manifold to replace components, what other projects would you recommend doing while it’s off in order to extend life of truck? And yes, I do plan to stick around as I’ve got a few other projects to accomplish on my tundra. Your feedback has been awesome! Thanks again!

 

The SAI system is only running for ~30-60 seconds at startup to rapidly heat things up for more efficient combustion, and only runs if the temperatures are above 40ºF, if memory serves (40, 45, something like that). Basically, those valves open/close for that short period to force-heat whatever it is needing to be heated, then turns off. It's why, when the pump goes bad, owners only hear a shopvac-like sound for 30-60 seconds, as the pump is running

In theory --- with full disclaimer I'm not a Toyota engineer and you should act on your own accord under your own responsibility --- I don't think anything should be impacted from kicking the can down the road and persistently resetting the codes. Others have done the same. But don't expect to pass smog again until you get the problem solved.

There's always a remote chance also, that, by some stroke of luck, the valves suddenly get out of their funk and re-set. I swore I saw Hewitt on here with a process explaining how to reset the damn valves (I rarely forget relationships of words to people if I think it's worth remembering), but I've never been able to find it again. It's possible I'm not finding it because I misread, and they were talking about resetting the ECU, but I don't think it's the case!