Finally got the ok for a Supercharger

Didn't take it that way everyone that had stage 1 seemed to go to the stage 2 anyway

 

Is the TRD excellrator included with the TRD box and if not is it needed,don't want to cut a hole in the fender

 

Yes most were running Stage 1 on stock map since tuning options weren't available.

 

The accelerator is just a $20 part you can order from Toyota

 

If you're getting the TRD box, piece it together, much cheaper. TRD lid from Toyota is like $250-275. Accelerator is $20, bottom box from SCOL for $50. AFE filter from Amazon $100

 

Accelerator can also be found on Amazon

 

It is just a sleeve that fits over the tube that sticks out the fender, you shouldn't need to cut anything.

 

Thanks for all the information guys, been living vicariously through all of you that already have a Supercharger now its time to step up and I just want to keep it simple like I have said before not building a race truck,don't mind tinkering just don't want to have to babysit it all the time...KISS principal

 

You shouldn't have to tinker with anything once the truck has been delivered. You'll have added maintenance on the blower after 100K miles and you'll have to empty the catch can if you get one of those. You may see accelerated wear on tires and brakes too. I change my oil every 3K but that isn't required.

I think "race truck" territory would require a built engine which isn't offered in their Stage packages. Stage 4 is an E85 build which is probably the max power you can get without a built engine. IMO that would be the "race truck" option. From what I remember Stage 3 is Stage 2 with headers and the larger intake; performance wise Stage 3 isn't to far above Stage 2 and you may have to deal with emissions for your state.

Take a code reader (like a scan gauge) with you when you take the truck back just in case anything pops up. They are pretty diligent about getting everything sorted but sometimes things pop up.
You can monitor various temps with one too which can be helpful for spotting anything out of the ordinary.

 

Thanks Salty,I'm pretty anal on maintenance with all my vehicles and I do 5000 mile oil changes

 

Blowers are very low/no maintenance. As mentioned. Get the items we said and enjoy it

 

Thanks Rey...looking forward to it just never had a blower on any of my vehicles

 

Coming from turbo vehicles I was in the same boat and was a bit nervous about making such a major modification.
Toyota overbuilds their designs which made me feel more comfortable about it. As long as you don't go crazy with HP and without the appropriate mods the truck will last a long time. Warm it up before you beat on it.

 

Where’s the bank account gauge, mines hooked up to the OBD2 PID connected to my Tundras account. Bank account = Prior Balance / # of Tundras.com posts read.

 

Here is what I have come to realize...Buy new Tundra...join Tundras.com...ask questions....deplete bank account....Repeat

 

Fixed it for ya. You wanna stay away from the 3rd turd.

 

No need to ask questions. Reading posts costs money.

I had no intention of more mods & read about the RC F throttle body, adios 480.00 lol

 

There is usually a big discount around black Friday they pass thru coming from the blower manufacturers. Whipple had a pretty good one too but I think it was later in the year.

 

Catch can ,psb1and mount ordered...trying to decide if I'm keeping the Stillen or changing to the TRD box...and the credit card gets full again

 

If you are using the stock TB you will probably be able to keep the Stillen with no mods needed. The Harrop doesn't change the TB position.

You only need parts if you are trying to get it to work with a larger intake and/or TB.

 

Or you could trade your gently used Stillen for my worn out empty wallet!

 

Is it Leather....approximately how worn out is

 

I have a call in to National Speed about the Stillen...we will see what happens

 

Just saying I might be in the market if you need to move it out. Still doing my homework too though so can't commit yet. Good luck with your endeavor there!

 

Will keep you posted if I change it out had it on for approximately 5000 miles

 

To everyone with a afr/boost gauge what is the best location for the bung to be welded in and does it matter what side Driver or Passenger. I have the Innovate ps1 ordered

 

If you’re doing the 80mm pulley I would definitely get the larger intake (TRD SC/Magnuson SC intake). You will be exceeding the MAF voltage limit which means your tuner will basically be guessing on getting the fueling correct beyond 5k RPMs or so. Been there, done that! Then later down the road I had to pay out more for a retune on the larger properly sized intake. I also used to get annoying P0101 MAF codes all the time in the stock sized intake, but no more after upgrading and retuning. Do it all the right way the first go around is my advice.

Some have it drivers side others have it passenger side. Mine is on the drivers side, but it’s a bigger pain to install with the driveshaft there than the passenger side. You want it down stream of the primary O2 sensor and installed at the angle called for in the directions. The case for the driver side bank is it has cylinder 5 which tends to be the problem cylinder. The case for the passenger bank is it the passenger fuel rail gets fed second in series after the drivers side rail.

 

Always a pleasure to get advice from somebody that has already done this so I don't screw it up,I'd really like to keep the Stillen but I'm not an engineer so I'd rather have a tried and true method not a I think it will work method. Thanks Silver,Salty,Sniv. ..and all of you for your suggestions and comments.

 

I think Stillen is one of the better airboxes on the market because of the front snorkel/inlet, that is really the main distinguishing feature.

You could feasibly mod any box and mount the inlet to it RE: PS + Stillen snorkel fusion @reywcms since Stillen now sells the snorkel inlet separately. Modding a box that way would be easier and cleaner than the approach I took (out of desperation).

You don't really need their special deflector since you can mod the stock deflector just fine for the intake and pump hoses.

If you go with the Radium catch can and the Stillen you'll have to get a spare bracket from radium to shift the can over and avoid physical interference with the intake. I don't know about other catch cans on the market.

Stock Air Box Mod (SABM) might be able to do the same for you as the Stillen but I've not seen them compared side by side.

 

This is accurate! The two main reasons for switching boxes is the larger maf pipe and larger box for more air/bigger filter . I have the Prospeed box and added the stillen tube.

The issue with the Prospeed box is it isn’t as sealed as other units. I also added a much larger filter than what was provided with the kit.