What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Installed a "trust me bro, definitely not ARB" compressor today (from Scamazon). Airs up my tires about 3x faster than the Viair 400p that it is replacing. The Viair is still a great compressor though and is going in my brother's truck since he recently learned the value of being able to help yourself off the side of the road

 

Have a link by chance?

 

Right here

GELUOXI 12V Twin Air Compressor Replacement for ARB CKMTA12 Universal High Output On-Board Air Compressor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088RFPRTM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

Thanks!

 

Oil and filter change, not as many miles as I thought since the last one. Just over 18.1k miles since the last OCI, 0w-20 on 257k miles...

 

Is 9 hours of shop time reasonable for a transfer case swap? That seems excessive to me but just want to ask the group

 

As an estimate it seems on the safe side. Maybe they will only charge for actual time spent?

 

the book time for it calls 8.8 hours to replace it, just looked it up

that doesn't include new gaskets and fluid

 

That’s what I hope

Oh, nice thanks I don’t have that document

 

Mines is the plastic bumper so I had no issues cutting close to the fog lights. The viper cut was what I was going for but not as aggressive so I ended up with this.

 

its alldata, our shop account, allows us to see basically a repair manual for every car along with "book time" and estimated part cost

 

Time to gussy up the engine bay. I replaced my rusty old battery hold down with

$20 ARONOVA Heavy Duty Battery Hold Down Sets,With Billet Aluminum Battery Tie Down Bracket And 18-8(304) Stainless Steel J bolts(Red, 10" bolts)

this dandy. Then I added a TRD decal because I know what the ladies like.

 

I so very much doubt that.

 

That looks very masculine, but why go astray from OEM when it should be perfectly adequate in holding down the battery? It's also hidden under the hood. Who would ever know?

 

Did you even read his post? He says he knows what the ladies like.

 

Funny.
Ladies never complained about my oem.

 

I know, right? They never tell you what they're upset about. Now you know the problem when they won't make eye contact but, "Everything's fine."

 

Indeed!

Like > never complained

 

Just hit 100,000 miles on mine over the weekend.. time for oil change!

Upgraded to the metal oil housing (mainly because the oil filter drain plug / screw / bolt (whatever it's called)) was over-tightened and frozen in the plastic housing by the dealer before I bought it. Swapped the inner straining tubes was super simple. Also added a fumoto valve for the oil drain.

I'm not going to say it was the cleanest oil change I've ever done... but it certainly wasn't the worst. It was going great until the container started to overfill ( )... I was too concerned about the wind and not about capacity. Anyways thanks to cardboard it wasn't nearly as bad as it should have been.

Hopefully next time it'll be cleaner... lol

 

I ticked over 100,000 miles as well on Monday.

 

Started making a Ty-down bar for the dirtbike in the back of the bed, almost there, waiting for some eye-nuts to arrive

 

Some totally unnecessary changes. New Mishimoto oil filler cap to match my red battery hold down:



I also black wrapped the B pillars and the bottom of the grille to try and visually hide the Sequoia-grill gap.




Not sure if I'll keep the grille wrap. I'll live with it and see if it actually looks better.

 

I have automatic bed and hood lights and I've been worried they would drain the battery. So I installed a

$25 CZH-LABS LVD Low Voltage Disconnect Module. (12V / 30Amp)

low voltage disconnect between the battery and my accessory fuse block. It shuts off power at 12.1V (enough to start the truck but just barely) and turns power back on when it hits 12.8V (basically after I start the truck and the alternator starts spinning).



And I installed automatic

$21 Under Hood Light Under Hood Led Light Kit for Car Engine Bay Led Light kit Car Hood Work Lights Inspection Lights with Automatic On/Off, Universal Fits Any Vehicle 12V 1Set

hood lights that I can manually turn off using the above switch.



This is where I positioned the plunger switch (above driver's headlight). I wish it could have been more out of the way but I couldn't find a good spot with sufficient clearance behind it. I had to lengthen the negative cable by about a foot.

 

One more time quilting you. Thanks for inspiration, gang!








**genuine** new terminals from ebay
If she starts tomorrow, I'll be

 

Don't be alarmed if your truck starts and stalls immediately after on the first start. For some reason mine has always done that when started after a battery change or whenever I unhook the battery. Always starts fine the second try and runs great but dies immediately after the first turn of the key.

 

X2. It's very predictable. Makes me think it is some kind of systems check.

 

Thank you and I know about the stall thing. After hooking up battery, I always let ignition sit in the ON position for about a minute or two. It starts fine without stalling.

One of the members here mentioned it happens due to ECM initializing or something of that nature. If it doesn't finish before start, engine stalls out immediately.

 

It is a system check from my understanding

 

Finally! Going to spray a clear coat on everything but couldn't resist installing as soon as they arrived. eBay had a bundled kit for everything. I'm a huge fan of watching items on eBay and waiting for them to send you an offer code. Saved 8% over advertised price.