2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

That is exactly how mine looked after milling. It actually looks like they took more metal off the left ear than the right.

 

The machine shop sent me the picture, so I'm not sure. I hope it is just the reflection.

 

Need advice on Pads and Rotors... What is the popular combination? EBC, Powerstop, OEM... I just need good brakes.

 

Might just be the lighting.

 

I went with Lexus GX460 OEM pads and rotors from LexusPartsNow dot com.
Don't forget squeal shims and retainer springs if you want to replace those.
All in it ended up being around $300 for all that.
edit: FYI I also had to trim my brake dust shield on the edges. NBD.

 

Nice. I assume that was just the front disc brakes? Would you mind telling us which exact parts you ordered with numbers?

 

Should be able to find what you need on the website by setting your vehicle as a 2010 GX460. Pretty easy.

Front Discs: Part No.: 43512-60190
DISC, FR
[GX460 | 2010]
Replaced by: 43512-60191 (IDK what this means)

Front pads: Part No.: 04465-60320
PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE
[GX460 | 2010]

Squeal Shims: Part No.: 04945-60090
SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEA

Retainer Springs: Part No.: 04947-35050
FITTING KIT, DISC BR

 

The start of the 14wa upgrade... 3.5ish mm removed making the ears right at 1/2 inch thick

 

Well there installed adjusted the drums as tight as possible for best feel... And welcome to the rust belt..

4Runner rims and brakes.. sequoia master and fj rear disk is in the future

 

Nice upgrade! I'm going to have to look into this.
I have an 01 V8 access cab. No ABS and the larger calipers. My brakes aren't soft at all but they do fade on hard braking and consistently warp the rotors.
So larger front brakes should definitely help.

One note on what calipers you buy, I have a pair of bought brand new rear calipers on my Sequoia from rock auto (don't remember the brand). They didn't even last 2 years before one of the rear pistons is frozen rock solid. And it's constantly driven. Doesn't sit.
I should have know when I had to tap out the bolt holes for the slide bolts because the machining wasn't fully completed at the factory.

For those of you putting aluminum or copper bushings around the bolts holding the caliper to the steering knuckle; you're risking the bolts attaching themselves to the caliper. It's called galvanic corrosion. Won't necessarily happen overnight, but enough time it will happen.
Quick link
https://www.appmfg.com/blog/4-facts-on-dissimilar-metal-corrosion
If you're using aluminum the steel bolts and holes will steal electrons from the aluminum.
If you use copper the copper steals electrons from the steel.
If it gets bad enough it can completely seize the bolt to the caliper or knuckle.
This is how the anodes in your water heater work, or the zinc blocks on boats.
If you live in Arizona it probably won't be much of a problem because it's so dry, but if you live in the Pacific Northwest, or even worse the salt belt it can be a big problem.

Just to clarify here because "weak brakes" can mean a lot of things; weak (or too small) brake booster won't cause soft brakes. It will actually cause a overly stiff pedal. Your truck won't stop as fast, because less effort is going to the brakes. But it can't cause a soft pedal.

Also, the booster doesn't make (or kick out) vacuum. The engine makes the vacuum, the vacuum pulls against one side of the diaphragm in the booster, helping you push the pedal down.
The more surface area the vacuum has to work against the more it helps you push the pedal down.
A smaller brake booster doesn't necessarily mean less help though, if the booster has a dual diaphragm it can have more combined (2 diaphragms to work with) area than a larger single diaphragm booster.
Same way a multi disc clutch can be smaller in diameter than a single disc, but has more clamping power because it has more total surface area.
I don't know if the booster referenced has a dual diaphragm, they usually have a smaller diameter but a greater "depth", so they'll look more like a can.

 

"Kick out" was maybe a bad term to use, and "amplify" (which is simply kicking something out louder IMO) is maybe more apropos to my original intent and easier to understand. I'd say semantics (or your interpretation) is the problem here, not me throwing out an invalid point. It's called a booster for a reason. But I appreciate the lecture, it may help others.

 

The brake booster doesn't amplify the vacuum either. It uses the vacuum to amplify (or boost) the pressure on the brake master cylinder.
If you had said the booster kicked out the brake master cylinder I wouldn't have said a word.
You said the brake booster kicks out (or amplifies, or any other synonym) the vacuum. Boosting the vacuum and boosting the brake pressure (via the pressure on the master cylinder) are two completely different things. Which is why I explained in detail. I'm not trying to quibble with you, just make sure the correct meaning is there.

 

Please stop with the semantics argument. I understand what you're saying, and I'm telling you, we're saying the same thing. Whether it's phrased in the manner which you prefer it is another story, it is what it is.

 

Want to mention two things,

It’s been mentioned a couple times already, if your drum shoes are not adjusted close enough your pedal travel will increase. This will cause a squishy pedal with lots of travel.

I think many people may be damaging their brake booster when bleeding their brakes. Your brake pedal is not designed to go the the floor. Sometimes this happens while bleeding. Place something under your pedal while bleeding brakes to prevent this.

 

Damaging the booster or master cylinder?

 

Both can be damaged while manually bleeding brake systems by pedal traveling beyond the normal range.

 

General rule of thumb: Seals and diaphragms don't love being pushed to their limits. (Nor beyond)

 

Looking to do the big brake upgrade on my 06 DC. Instead of starting another thread thought I'd just post here on asking for a double check on what I'm ordering. Going from rockauto: Listed as parts for the 2015 4Runner:

Calipers: New right ULTRA-POWER 196278, new left ULTRA-POWER 196279

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11884573&cc=1445180&pt=1704&jsn=2856
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11884577&cc=1445180&pt=1704&jsn=2854

Rotor & brake pad kit: POWER STOP CRK5873

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10184924&cc=1445180&pt=13824&jsn=2857

I am likely going to get stainless steel break lines as well. Can someone recommend a good source for those?

Next question with the break lines. I 90% sure I do not have VSC as I do not have a dash VSC light when just turn to ACC or a VSC off when in 4hi/lo. Is there a better way to verify this?

Last questions is I see a varied range on mill depth of 3mm-3.5mm it seems. Not sure it's that noticeable of a difference but what really has everyone tired?

Let me know if I'm missing anything parts wise or general thoughts on it. Thanks.

 

I recommend the Stoptech lines. Part number

$47 950.44007 StopTech Stainless Steel Front Brake lines for 95-07 Toyota 4 Runner

950.44007. Just replace the rubber line. For the hard line that goes into the caliper, I recommend just reusing it, or buying an OEM replacement.

Do you have an "Auto-LSD" button next to your 4WD buttons? That's the quick way to tell. That button isn't for VSC, but trucks with this button have VSC.

Otherwise, pop your hood and look at the brake booster and master cylinder in the driver's side of the engine bay at the firewall. If it looks like this with a typical vacuum booster, you do not have VSC.


The trucks with a hydroboost master cylinder should have VSC and an auto-LSD. That master cylinder looks like this:

 

@des2mtn Thanks for the recommendation. I did find the Stop Tech break lines but wasn't sure because the price comparisons to others. I'll likely go with them then.

100% sure now VSC do not have No Auto-LSD button and my master cylinder is not the VSC one.

 

Just wrapped up installing the front GX460 big brakes, as well as SOS Performance rear disc conversion kit using FJ Cruiser rotors and calipers. Installed on my 2006 Tundra DoubleCab 4x4. Non-VSC. I am absolutely BLOWN AWAY how well this thing stops now.

I was a bit nervous going for it given the mixed results folks have had, but it seemed like the ones having the most success are the later DoubleCabs with the non-VSC like I have. So I went for it. I also actually bought the replacement master cylinder from SOS, just in case, but I decided to do it at a later date if necessary, after doing the discs all around. I also left the stock rear LSPV in place with the same reasoning--swap it out later, if nessary. But this thing is stopping so well right now with just the GX460 fronts and FJC rears, I'll just be leaving it and running it for now.

Pedal feels absolutely awesome too. No excessive travel or anything. Brakes start to grab quick (but not too quick) and amount of travel feels awesome. Way better than before. Maybe is mostly the front GX460 stuff, but I cant really say for sure, but I absolutely HATE drum brakes. No.debate on "they just need to be adjusted properly" blah, blah. They're bullsh!t to work on regardless, and if they're so damn great, why the hell aren't they still on the fronts of every vehicle like in the old days? LOL. Ya, cause they suck. IMO, this is how the 1G Tundra should have been from the factory. --able to stop well.

Specific parts:
-OEM Toyota GX460 calipers, machined by Jim Smola (I think he does 3.5mm shaved off)
-Advics GX460 calipers and OEM pads
-SOS rear kit using centric pads and rotors and whatever calipers SOS sends

Overall, on the SOS kit, it seems like a decent kit, time will tell. One thing I am not stoked about, is that the calipers brake lines do not line up anywhere near the OEM hard lines on the axle. I had to bend them up and around in a terribly ugly loop. I'll def be replacing the hard lines with some new custom hard lines, asap.

 

Side Q for you, since I expect my garage to look about like yours this coming weekend.

What are you using for lighting in your wells? Is that some kind of battery-based magnetic LED or something?

 

Harbor Freight magnetic work lights. Rechargeable and will fit most places. Or Scamazon.

 

Yep. Cheapy rechargeable magnetic work light from Amazon in the rear in that pic. Light on the front well is from an external de-walt-battery-compatible cordless work light.

The rechargeable magnetic one has been instrumental in my endeavors. Can attach about anywhere using the magnet and no cord in the way ever.

MAXXEON MXN00810 WorkStar Cyclops, USB-C Rechargeable LED Inspection Light, Red, (Pack of 1)

$50 MAXXEON MXN00810 WorkStar Cyclops, USB-C Rechargeable LED Inspection Light, Red, (Pack of 1)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NGHPBXM

Cordless LED Work Light for Dewalt 18v 20v Battery, 34W 3400Lumens Underhood Work Light with USB & Type-C Charging Port, LED Flood Light for Dewalt 20v Tools, Workshop, Camping, Outdoor, Emergencies

$29 Cordless LED Work Light for Dewalt 18v 20v Battery, 34W 3400Lumens Underhood Work Light with USB & Type-C Charging Port, LED Flood Light for Dewalt 20v Tools, Workshop, Camping, Outdoor, Emergencies

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDDY4C6Y

 

New member here. Preparing to do this upgrade on my 05 DC. What is the best way to get ahold of Jim Smola for the caliper machining?

 

Instagram or Facebook

 

Jim Smola (864) 205-6175

Instagram @jimsmola

 

Thank you both! I sent him a message on IG.

 

You're welcome.

 

Bringing this back from the dead, do you have the original dust shields installed here or did you use different dust shields? I'll be doing the big brakes soon and my dust shields are all rotted out. I'm debating whether to replace them or just remove them. Thanks.