Below freezing 4x4 not engaging??

@Dirtytruck , I appologize for incorrectly calling you out. Thank you for the correction. I don't know if this is new or if I totally missed when I was looking into it earlier. Either way it is good to know that there are options out there!

 

I can appreciate using nothing but the Toyota prescribed oil. A lot of folks do. However, if the product says it’s compatible and the mfg’s part number is listed on the product then the mfg cannot deny a claim due to the Magnusen/Morris Warranty Act. (I think that’s what it’s called) I started using AMSOIL in my transmission, engine, diffs and steering way before my 3/36 warranty ran out. At present AMSOIL doesn’t make a tc oil for the Tundra, hence the Ravenol.
As long as the product lists the mfg’s part number I feel safe using it. I would never use a 75-90 in the tc for that reason even if claimed to work fine. Stay Strong Boston.

 

Not a problem, friend. I use the Magnusen/Morris Warranty Act (I think that’s what it called) as my litmus test when using non-prescribed mfg oils. Dealership folks especially the service dept folks shy away from this law because of the legality, because it works, and because they must abide by it. Money has something to do with it as well.

 

It’s the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

NOT the Magnusen-Morris Warranty Act.
My bad.

It deals with many things one of which is mfg’s/dealerships cannot deny a warranty claim on a vehicle if vehicle owner chooses to use other than dealership or mfg provided (in this case oils) in their vehicle provided the oils are stated plainly to be compatible ie., like mfg part numbers, viscosities and the like.
This is a paraphrase but I think we get the just of it. My AMSOIL dealer has a pamphlet with Act in its abbreviated form. I looked but couldn’t find it in my garage. Time to go get another one.

 

While I'm not saying that ravenol is bad or will not work(not saying it's good either) Virgin analyses were run comparing ravenol to Toyota and there was an obvious difference in the ratio and amount of elements in the oils themself. This would lead me to believe that while you may not get the stuck actuator issues that plague those using the wrong weight oil. You may be sacrificing some of the transfer case life.

post 17 by sumo91 in this thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/transfer-case-fluid-after-59k-w-pics.102696/

basically you'll would want these element numbers between brands to be not only close in the number themself (part per million) but also in the ratio of elements to each other as well

 

For what it’s worth for what ever oil is chosen

 

had my truck in at dealer.
a code came up for open circuit in front actuator. they replaced it.
told them my story and told them to open up the old one. water got inside and damaged it.
they said they know about water getting inside ( not common issue) and Toyota " in 2021 did a revise on the unit"

so far its been working.
hope this helps anybody ..

 

A new post to an old thread.
I went ahead and changed my transfer oil back to the Toyota factory stuff. Although the Ravenol is compatible all the commentary here on Ravenol vs Toyota oil bugged me enough to just use the stuff Toyota recommends.

 

One should note the additive packs between Ravenol and the Toyota fluid are not the same. The Toyota fluid has three times the Boron and a big shot of ZDDP compared to the Ravenol oil. Virgin fluid analysis sheets have been posted here and on other sites showing this.