2000 Tundra, Stock

I bought this truck in 2020. 4.7 V8, AC, 4WD Paid 3100$ and didn't really know what I was buying. I owned a few Toyota cars and knew I loved them, and they were reliable. Since then, I've come to absolutely love this truck, I've honestly beat the hell out of hit hauling hay and what not around the farm. When I left for deployment, I parked it and decided that I would probably buy something newer once I got home. I'm still not home yet but there is no way I can sell that truck or move on from it. One reason being the truck market is just insane right now and two I really just love the Gen 1. Unfortentaly, this truck needs some serious TLC. This is were Ill need your guys help!

- Left side manifold is leaking, I took it in awhile ago and they said about 1200$ to replace.
- New tires and brakes all the way around.
- Trailer plug wiring is a mess and left tailight quit working, but its not the bulb.
- New stereo and speakers, Ive never had music in this truck and thats not ok anymore lol
- Bed sides around fenders are horribly repaired and I need to figure out what I want to do with that.
- Id like to raise the front and replace rear suspension as well.

My goal with this truck is make it even more reliable, comfortable and someday be able to camp out of the bed. I don't intend to make it an "overland" truck since I live in SE Michigan, but I'd still like to take it Deer/Duck hunting UpNorth and always have my cooking/hygiene stuff.

Truck might not be in the greatest shape and need quite a bit of money put into it but it's what I've got and what I'm sticking with!


Attached photo is the day I brought the truck home, Id say its a little rougher now. Will update when the Army lets me go home.

 

1st, thank you for your service. Sucks being away from home that much. 2nd, take a poke around in here:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Lots of good info in there.

$1200 for an intake manifold gasket is insane. That's a cheap gasket and maybe 3 hours of work if you take your time.

Brakes aren't bad on the front, drums are a pain, but @Aerindel seems to have it dialed in good.

No clue on trailer wiring. @daveeasa probably knows that best, and @BubbaW has wiring diagrams.

@shifty` and a few others can help with stereo stuff.

I'm not sure about body work, I thing @N84434 and @FiatRunner did some recently?

There's a thread "how big is yours" around here for lift stuff. Found it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

So how's the underside look being a NE truck? And don't be afraid to ask questions, that's what we're here for!

 

I have a spare Curt which connects to the 11 pin and supplies a 4 pin output. The only extra is making sure the center pin on the 11 has power from the battery. I think that’s all OEM stuff but the battery tap on mine looks aftermarket. I never towed so this part got done when my buddy owned it. I swapped to the Oem tow module which needs additional pieces I haven’t sourced to feed the 7 pin connector. Whereas the Curt just has its own 4 pin output.

 

I assumed it was an insane price that's why it never got done. I'm pretty handy so all work I should be doing myself. I thought id probably outsource the exhaust work but now I'm thinking ill probably just do it as well. Underside is actually pretty good for where it's been all its life. Ill more than likely clean it up and seal it up. I will look at the links and users to mentioned for more info. Thanks!

 

The plug works just fine, I actually have hauled a 2-horse trailer a few times with this truck. The wiring is just a rat nest disaster lol.

 

If you want it, I’ll send it. Can use it to feed a 7 if you mix in reverse and supply power and brake controller.

 

The drivers side exh manifold is tricky from what I hear. Pass side not so bad. Haven't done it myself, but a few here have who can chime in on that.

 

^^ And is probably the source of your tail light issue. Do what you can to restore things to OEM by pulling whatever garbage the previous owner installed. When in doubt, return to stock, correctly, and whatever you do NEVER use T-tap/Scotchlok/Quicktap/Quickslide/ConductTite connectors (link) when splicing into wiring, they always degrade and will leave you assed out, kinda like you seem to be now.

That said ...

Michigan --> Rust is your #1 concern before dumping any money into this. If you haven't thoroughly checked the frame, especially above the spare tire, where crossmembers meet the frame, and where frame stiffeners are riveted in under the cab, do that before you spend a cent.

Manifolds --> Is it the manifold being cracked, or is it leaking because a stud or two snapped? I hear the exhaust manifold studs are a source of pain in salty climates. It'd be helpful for us to know if you've got the V6 or V8, manual or auto (if V6), and if it's 2WD or 4WD, since advice we'll give you is different for each.

Brakes -> Upgrading to OEM "WL" calipers found on the later years of 1st gen is bolt-on, though may require adjustments to the dust shield.

Stereo -> You say new stereo and speakers. Does the truck not have any speakers in it? No OEM radio? First thing to do is to figure out if your truck's OEM stereo had an amp, this thread will help you on that. If you find you have an amp, this post covers how to bypass it. To see what aftermarket radio others on here are running, read this thread. Knowing what your budget is will help us help you. Whatever you do, don't be an asshole: Use adapters. Don't cut factory harnesses, there's a dozen different ways to adapt out your factory wiring using readily available, inexpensive kits.

Suspension -> Check that thread @bmf4069 posted above, there's a Suspension/Wheels section and it'll give you the rundown on what you need to know, but throw some questions at us here if you need it.

Other -> Timing belt is supposed to be replaced every 9yr/90k miles per Toyota, though you can easily throw a couple 10k miles over that if you use genuine OEM parts, and when I say "genuine", you should avoid buying on scAmazon, fleaBay or other online stores that is prone to counterfeiting/white-box generics sold as "OEM" when they aren't. You should really check the belt for the 4.7L V8, it's a (low) interference engine, and you can technically boat-anchor the engine it if the belt snaps.

Another "Other" -> Be aware, rodents looooove these trucks. Again, the thread BMF linked up will cover that point and tell you where you need to be concerned.

Welcome to the forum, and thanks for your service!

 

Thank you for all the great info!

Its a 2000 Tundra AC with 4.7 V8, 4WD.

The timing belt will be one of the firs things I check once I get home. For the Radio, all speakers are there and the head unit is in place but the nut before me cut the wiring harness to put in an aftermarket stereo. Then when he decided to sell it, he just sat the OEM head unit back in. Nothing is hooked up and I never took the time to try and trace wires and wire it back right. I need to inspect manifold to see what exactly the issue it but there is a pretty decent leak, and it drives me nuts. Before the Army I was a Navy Seabee working on Heavy Equipment so I know my way around the truck and can do most things. Im itching to get home and start working/hunting out of this truck so I thought this forum would be the next best thing. So far its been awesome, thanks again for the info!

 

That sucks, so you get to be the victim of a wire-cutting asshole We try to explain to folks not to do that stupid shit, but ... damn.

You'll definitely want to check in the dash to see if you've got the amp, that thread I linked gives pics of what to look for. MAYBE you'll get lucky and your truck had a separate OEM amp, and the previous owner only cut the harness coming from the amp, but left the two super-important harnesses to the amp intact? Those are what you need to splice into.

 

Do yourself a favor and buy a set of headers and install them your self. Thats what I did. New headers, and exhaust will still be miles ahead of paying someone to replace an exhaust manifold.

 

You’re sure it’s an exhaust manifold leak and just not the annoying ticking sounds that come into the cab while you’re driving it? That’s a $5/5 minute fix; < $100 and a days work if you want to do it properly. Even Toyota techs have made the mistake of thinking it was an exhaust leak (or at least the one I had).

 

A lot of others have pitched in most the info I would have. If your exhaust manifold is just ticking, I say leave it. $1200 is about right from what I've seen on that if you're paying someone else to do it.

As @shifty` said, you need to pull out your radio and hope that someone just cut up the post amp wiring harness and all you need to do is pull the amp and get the proper harness.

Suspension, all I can say is get something preassembled, at your desired lift hight. Usually 5100s are the best bang for the buck. Just make sure you get the appropriate rated front spring for your truck configuration.

I'd figure out your lift plans before you put tires or wheels on as well.

How's the frame look? It may be bad enough that it's still eligible for frame replacement if it's spent enough time in the right states. I didn't think my truck was that bad and it was eligible.

As you mentioned you would I'd check that timing belt ASAP if you have no history. If the truck has been sitting for a while since you've been gone I'd consider checking it before you start it up.

 

If thats what it comes down to then that will be the route I take. Thank you.

 

Can you elaborate on this please, It would be great if that was the case. Thank you

 

Does it sounds like a ticking sound when idle and when you step on the gas, does it get faster in frequency with acceleration?

 

It aint' a Toyota if it ain't tickin'.

Sorta sounds like a lifter.

 

I thought the ticking on my '06 was valvetrain chatter too. Seems like it's actually the injectors.

 

Yes, I'd say it's definitely an Exhaust Leak not a lifter or Valvetrain like mentioned below.

 

No kidding? I didn't know they could make a noise like that. Ordered the DD injectors earlier this week, so now I'm interested to see if the noise will go away after they're in.

 

You can either replace the steering shaft seal or stuff a $5 bat of owens corning pink insulation in there like I did to prevent the noise from entering the cabin area.

 

For sure, I'll be doing that in near future as well, but now my curiosity is piqued... and I need to know the whys .

 

Yup, I was convinced my 04 had a driver side manifold leak. It was just that steering shaft seal. Very relieved by that at the time.

Its a boot/seal that goes around the steering shaft at the firewall. It often splits, letting noise in the cabin. Tends to get worse and you'll be convinced its an exhaust manifold leak.

 

Yep, we have a whole thread talking about the solution in the easy access 'sticky' area. https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-steering-shaft-seal.48664/

 

It's my understanding DD is using OEM parts, basically, so there's a chance it's more of the same.

 

The stereo stuff is pretty simple. Crutchfield is a good online resource for options, even if you don’t buy from there. I’m sure there is a wiring diagram on this forum for the radio setup. Speakers are pretty easy, especially if you’re not doing a major upgrade. Toyota certainly has Chevy brag on door panel quality it seems….