What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Only one uni-tasker allowed, and it serves the same purpose in the garage as the kitchen.

 

So you painted the chrome trd duel exhaust black ?

 

Cool. What setup is that on the tablet?

 

I am a huge fan of what you're doing. When my dad passed, he left me his F150. First time I got under it for an oil change I was shocked by how much rust rot it had. 18 months later, the frame gave. I capped a 6' section on each side and drove another 4 years before it gave 16" past the cap. Nothing I could do to save her then. So, I vowed to find out how to not let this MI road salt not destroy my vehicle and landed where you are now

When you're using fluid film/surface shield, make sure to get inside every piece of frame that you can. I also hit the bottom of doors, tailgate, can corners, etc. I won't let rust rob me of a 160k mile truck again! Good luck!

 

OBD Fusion with the Toyota expansion pack.

 

New tires

 

Put in the new replacement Ironman Foam Cell Pros with new brake rotors and pads. And finally got the alternator diode installed for the AGM battery, reads 14.1v at idle now.

 

The frame seems to be a “C” shape for most of its length so fingers crossed I can hit most of it

 

I was just looking at those on Discounts site. What size and how do you like them?

 

Installed a dual battery isolator, ran a positive wire above the frame to the bed, put an old 80 Ah battery to test. Will see if it can run my shiny new ARB Element fridge through the night.

This fridge is huge! A lot of cold beer in the woods, a lot! I wish it was a dual zone fridge/freezer, so I could have a frozen meat and vegetables/beverages at the same time, but this one was the only IP67 fridge ARB makes. I think I can build an insulated box for veggies and run ARB as a freezer.

Also will need a deep cycle marine battery.

 

Buy a can or two of Noxudol 700, it comes with an inner channel attachment that will let you spray the boxed part of the frame from within. 700 will creep everywhere, in every rust spot, and it will drive the water away from metal.

 

Thanks for the tip, seems like good stuff - I researched it a bit and it looks like Toyota themselves issues a repair protocol using it https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2009/RCRIT-09V444-6633.pdf


Also- do you think I should spray POR15 inside before it?

 

Big NO! 700 and that's it. 700 is very agile and can travel a few inches in any direction, even upwards.

I used Noxudol 1600UM on the outer part of the frame, it holds up pretty well after 3 New England winters and a few dozens of offroad trips. Applied with

$35 TCP Global Air Undercoating Spray Gun with Suction Feed Cup - Apply Sprayable Truck Bed Liner Coating, Rubberized Undercoat, Rust Proofing, Chip Guard Paint - Pneumatic Automotive Application Sprayer

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TZEIBM, it lays nice thick droplets. Used U-Pol Raptor gun on wife's Sequoia, likes it less (deposits a thinner layer).

 

@vtl how much air do you need to run that sprayer?

 

Literally had not heard of this now. Wish i had it. You were smart to use that. I need to take off my skids to service my transfer case and its the absolute biggest pain trying to pull these skids off. Tore up my hands pretty good when i first put them on.

If you offroad a decent amount you may need to retorque the bolts every so often as otherwise they pop a lot. At least for me they do, especially the side brackets on the Talon skids. I may try some blue loctite.

 

I'm in the same boat, I fear my 30K mile maintenance because of this...

 

Hahaha, same. Still got ~6000 miles to dread/think about it though.

Edit: really considering just doing all fluids at 30k so I only have to take them off once.

 

Yeah I have no shame saying i'm overdue and its mainly because of how time consuming taking the skid plates will be lol. I'm at 160k and just going to take care of a slew of maintenance items including front and rear diff, brake fluid, pads, rotors all at the same time and just set aside a day for it all.

 

It’s really not that bad. Hard to fit my arms above the crossmember to tighten those nuts, but other than that, it’s just an extra 20 minutes on either end of the job. Pressure wash the skids while you’re at it.

 

My arms were torn up after the initial install of the plates, plus I always get my truck undercoated with fluid film so between the tightness and the oil everywhere it’s not something I look forward to. But I will say the fluid film is certainly doing its job. 4 years in the northeast and not a spec of rust on the underside

 

My fat arms don't even come close to fitting. I came up with the wrench on stick but I will be making my own nut plate the next time I need to take the plates off.

 

So do you advise the use of POR 15 on external areas of the underbody? Or just spray it with the nuxodol after I reform withe the rust kutter? I’ve already done the whole thing with rust kutter at this point. No top coat of paint at all?

 

RCI made a retro-fit bar with nut clips that sits on top of the cross member so you can bolt from the bottom with the engine and trans skids in place, without having to jam your arms up there (if they even fit; mine, like yours, doesn’t ). It’d be neat if RCI offered it standalone; it currently comes with the RCI cat shield kit.

 

My compressor is biggish: 20 gal 5 CFM@90 PSI, but I think a smaller one can do it as well.

 

1600UM is tar-like (but it is not tar). It has fiber reinforcement and is loaded with rust inhibitors. It also heals itself when pinched. It dries up somewhat in a month, but remains tarrish for a long time. Doubles as sounds deadening.

I love this stuff, it's perfect for salty winters and offroad.

 

Genius! I may have to use that idea next time around

 

LOVE the homebrewed ingenuity, redneck engineering, whatever you want to call it...awesome!

The stool is yet another example...fantastic!!

 

Those MTs look really good on your rig. What size did you end up with????

 

Officially out of warranty on my ‘14, year and mileage wise.

 

Still have mine as a backup since my mechanics shop was able to tighten the carraige bolts while I had it there for new shocks and shackles. I had the plates all in place but no way could I tighten them fully. Shop said it was easy when up in the air. Sucks lying on your back in garage lol ..but hey still have my cats now