General Supercharger Thread

Blah, blah, blah...I finally welded in my Innovate PSB-1 bung and threw some new exhaust gaskets on...the bugger works and looks fairly good when at WOT...holds around 12.5 until it hits 5k RPM and drops to 10.5 to 9 at shift point...only 6.2 PSI at the top but stayed around 4.2PSI most of the "rip."

 

What tune is that?

Your pressure sounds fairly close to mine (when I had a big pulley) and we're at similar altitudes. I think you should run the 2.0 pulley with the altitude you live at.

 

It's #5098 of the OVT versions with one update for their "direct drive" feature. All works well and as should but there's still room for optimizing. I likely will run that pulley but I will next update to the 2.2 as that's what I have...upon getting dialed in with the fueling goodies I'll knab from @reywcms this summer, I'll report back and likely find myself adding to the Draggy shenanigans...I feel once I do the next update (fuel bits, pulley, tune) I'll be needing to optimize my transmission...just speculating, of course...but then, Ooooh man, the 2.0 will be a must-have!

 

I plan on it Colton! As soon as I get a couple things ready, I'm planning to visit you for some wheel time to ruin your wallet! Hahaha

 

Good plan! I don't know why I hadn't thought of mentioning the 2.0 to you before. That puts me right around 8psi consistently after making up for the pressure loss from altitude, so is essentially the same as a 2.3 pulley at sea level, where as right now you're making less boost than a stock supercharger at sea level. Though stepping down to the 2.2 and making sure everything is working good, then stepping down again (which is easy once the hub is on obviously) will be good to make sure it's all playing nicely and doing it incrementally.

 

Yes sir that's exactly the intent...My biggest decision I need to make, sooner than later, is my tuning...my OVT stuff has been pretty darn fair and I do use and enjoy using the features they unlocked (Direct Shift, and Gear holding) though, optimized transmission goodies will make it all translate mo-betta on the times! I'm looking forward to this! 8psi would be insanely smile-worthy! Soon!

 

Your AFRs were at 12.5 at WOT? Umm...seems a touch lean unless I'm missing something.

 

12.5 from 1-4k, 10.5 4-5.5k and 9 to the top of the shift at 6.5k...stock pulley, stock green machines, and only non-eth fuel...it was also 35* this morning on the run...there's a lot of optimization to take place still...

 

Sounds like it's just how the tune is setup. I've toyed with the idea of a similar enrichment strategy since cruise control for instance can trigger the truck to richen out even though it's hardly making any boost, so seems kind of a shame to cut your fuel mileage by 30% even though there's hardly any boost. Counter argument is you can make a quite a bit of boost even at the lower rpm and the engine may be at higher load chugging along since it's not revved out. The TRD tune tries to progressively add fueling, personally I just said fuck it better safe than sorry, let that bitch run really rich when enrichment engages. Kind of hard to find any scientific basis for what an actual safe fueling strategy is.

 

My registration expires 5/15, I just went for the smog test & was not ready. GRRRRR What's the best way to get ready? I'm researching if my Autel can set it to ready also.

 

usually 50 miles...

 

Autel had a long hold & was unpleasant, I had found the screen myself. Can't go back until tomorrow but that is not my idea of a fun way to spend even a second of my B-DSay so that's not happening.

 

The smog diagnostic is very specific. Someone posted it, I'll see if I can dig it up.

 

It's funny, Autel says Air not ready, they say it is. lol

 

I found this:
https://www.smogtips.com/smog-question/2644/Toyota-Tundra-Drive-Cycle-to-Complete-Monitors

Sounds like your Toyota Tundra has had its emission monitors (also known as readiness flags) erased at some point while it was being worked on, either due to the battery being disconnected or trouble codes being cleared (which subsequently also erases Emission Monitors).

Driving your Toyota Tundra in order to make READY the emission monitors is correct, however a specific driving pattern, known as a Drive Cycle, must be followed in order to make the monitors ready, and allow your truck to pass the smog inspection.

The following Drive Cycle should set all the required emission monitors. Follow them carefully and as accurately as possible. Take extra caution when performing the drive cycle on public roadways. If you feel you will not be able to complete the driving pattern safely please seek assistance from a Toyota dealership. The dealer will be able to perform the drive cycle on a dynamometer, eliminating the need to drive the truck on streets and freeways.

Begin by: (It is very important to make sure your Toyota Tundra has only between 1/4 and 3/4 of fuel in the gas tank. Some of the monitors (particularly the EVAP monitor) will not run while your truck has any amount of fuel other than 1/4 to 3/4 tank.

• Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
• Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
• Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
• Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking.
• Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
• Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
• Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above should set the emission monitors required to pass the smog test. We recommend performing the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog inspection. Using a scan tool check which monitors have become ready after each drive cycle.

 

That is it!

 

Some of those are a tall order. Staying 55 on the freeway is a prescription for being murdered.

 

Ya, I read that and thought that I'd have to find somewhere out of state to accomplish that.

 

I miss the days when Evap could be turned off in the tune and it’ll still pass testing lol

 

yeah not sure how close you have to follow but that will clear it.

 

After 2 drives here's what I have.

It's hard to go 55.

 

Those are all this drive cycle, since DTC cleared has all but evap ok.

 

Here is where it is this morning, it seems EVAP can be not ready. (it is)

 

Prefab hose came, I'll swap it in this morning.

 

I think that is the last part to clear

 

Everywhere I look says evap is ok to be not ready as long as no cel. (even in Ca)

Yesterday I was at 1/4, now I'm full. GAAAA

 

Have you done a battery disconnect reset? Then drive it?

 

No, as I am at 1 that I think is ok to not be ready I don't want to start over. I just chatted with MVD who told me to call AZDEQ, I'm in a Webex meeting so can't call for about 30 minutes.

 

You can pass with one test status in the "not ready" state as long as there no current or pending codes, at least in TX. I've passed with O2 in NR one year, and Evap in NR the next year.