General Supercharger Thread

The SCOL unit was around $170, but that's because it comes with the bracket and bolts too. I didn't know that when I ordered it. Not sure if you can just get the pulley by itself, but maybe worth a call. The

$23 Dayco Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Pulley - 89016

Dayco 89016 sells for around $23.00 and is supposed to be the same according to a thread I found on here. The Toyota TRD Idler Pulley (PTR29-34084) also runs $143.46 so I was hesitant to go with the $23.00 Dayco part due to the large price difference. I assume the TRD also comes with the bracket and is why the higher cost also. If you don't need the bracket I'd just order the Dayco.

Edit: My truck is super quiet now compared to before. No squeal from the idler and no rattle from the coupler.

 

Saved a little bit going with the dealership and TRD set up.

 

We're kinda data nerds, and the story about the injectors is curious.

 

Yeah, I hear you. I'm curious as well...I'll see what they can tell me on Thursday.

 

I don’t need a dyno, my SG told me I’m making 600hp.

 

I think that is estimate equivalent to crank/brake HP.

 

I’d love to know what it’s looking at to try and calculate that, and is it the ECU calculating it or is the SG interpreting the data and spitting out a number on its own. It’s honestly probably not that far off in my case.

 

I have seen talk of a Dragy place, I knew I had one on a shelf in my garage "somewhere" I was right & it was within millimeters of where I thought it was. It had been at least 3 years since I looked for it, so my 2 questions are what do I do with it & where is this place & why can't I remember why I'm in the kitchen 20 seconds after I get up & go there ??? (but knew the exact location of this box)



Damn! That's 3 questions!

lol

 

Copying a thread here in case anyone of you smart gents are able to assist. I just came across the below thread and figured someone here may know where to start.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/fuel-pump-fuse-blows.123762/

@01connerp maybe someone in this thread could toss some ideas your way.

 

Don't leave it on your dash in the summer time...mine started to warp pretty quickly from the AZ heat.

 

When I moved to PHX in 2006, I had a 94 '80 series I drove once a month or so, and the battery ran down, I got a Harbor solar trickle charger that connected to the lighter socket, & melted. I exchanged it 3x before throwing it away. Wasn't worth the under 20 bucks to get a refund.

 

Not sure but I am interested in hearing the answer; not too many ways it can be calculated. On Tundra's ECU it supposedly is using MAF and RPM as part of the calculation since we have no MAP.

 

I’ve seen my Scangauge2 flash 604 on a cold day with stage 1 setup. I’m sure it’s some rudimentary calculating going on but yours is probably real close to actual hp.

 

First pull with our TT and the Harrop.. talk about night and day!

 

Saw this on ProSpeed's IG feed today, interesting that it only makes 700whp on E85. I like how they mounted the catch cans to the intake "shield"...I might have to steal that.

 

LOL I was just looking at this and thinking hmm gold short block love it. Built motor has been on my mind a lot lately

 

No one would believe you unless it was gold!

 

If it actually made 700 on a roller with those tires that isn't bad. Otherwise it's definitely a conservative tune and I want my money back

 

This goes back to why I was asking about their offered packages. Their numbers looked low for all the supporting mods each level offered.

 

After my experience with them, they want to avoid blown up engines and unhappy customers and tend to tune on the safe side.

 

Blown up motors will lower one's satisfaction.

lol

 

Thank you. Sounds like a good way to approach customer satisfaction.

I was trying to use their packages to determine when they figured a short block would be needed. Your comment answers the question.

I still suspect there is some wiggle room for other supporting mods before needing to jump to a reenforced block. Problem is once you start to tear apart the engine you might as well go with short block and all the other upgrades while you are in there.

 

While you are in there built me a $12k 4.0 stroker with Brian Crower crank & cam 350Z. Unfortunately, the monkeys at the "highly recommended" machine shop did a shit job & it blew a JE piston in under 4k miles.

This was in 2010, I'm never getting over it.

 

Anyone know if this fits on the SCOL lower box?
TRD CAI

$510 PTR03-00140 Toyota Air Intake System - PTR03-00140

PTR03-00140. Might only fit 14-21. $300 incl shipping.

 

Pretty sure the red top TRD intake IS NOT the 98mm MAF tube

 

boo hoo.

Thanks!

Edit, will the top fit the box? (I'm asking him to measure the MAF inlet)

 

Seems like Toyota parts pages are down ATM. But this is the supercharged TRD intake lid part number. And it does fit on the lower Magnuson intake box you can get from SCOL for $50.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-trd-sc-57v8-arbox-to-ptr0334083

 

I have the full SCOL box, lid & MAF tube, this would be for the bling, typing it I realize it's silly.

lol.

 

I like bling some bling in the engine bay but I'm biased lol

 

The 98MM TRD branded top is only $180. Just get some red paint!