Rust Recall Lemon

Haha I was so excited for my $4k truck i took a picture after driving off 100 yards then getting out to snap a few . Good luck here! I do not think 10k is realistic when you get the truck back you can just pick a thing to fix at a time. When its all said and done as long as the engine doesn't have any issues and it doesn't sounds like it does you'll have a nice truck for decades to come.

 

And out of those items, I added another column for whether this item is needed for/during frame replacement or not.

I'm surprised to see $2,280 added on here for the timing belt and valve covers alone. Both purely engine items. You should be able to hand them these parts to get by:

• rack/pinion (if actually needed)
• front stabilizer links (Suspension MAXX makes great links
• front lower control arms (NAPA makes solid ones)

They should be able to assemble the frame to the point it's a roller, pay the tow guy a c-note to tow it home or if you're former mil and have USAA insurance, they'll tow it for free up to 10 miles (I've had them tow mine several times). Get it towed to a reputable brake shop, have them do the brake work and e-brake offsets. If you wonder about the driveshaft, go to a driveshaft shop to check balance and condition on it. Then you can do the VC gaskets and timing belt on your own, or pay a Toyota shop to do it.

Add the driveshaft, VC gaskets, e-brake offsets, belt/tensioner pulley, brakes/rotors/shoes/drums into the "can do elsewhere" and you'll be a little closer to what your actual cost should look like. (Granted, they may need to do brake lines, but you'll pay half as much at a proper brake shop I think)

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Rust is probably there because the previous owner(s) never bothered to lift the liner and clean out under it each spring.

 

This is a great forum, thank you for the added column. I just assumed most of the extras were things that would have to be taken care of immediately, and by them, for warranty/recall purposes, in addition to it just being necessary for a frame swap.

I have a mechanic I use, the one that failed inspection and told me point blank not to put a penny into the truck, after asking how much I paid. I knocked a few hundred off the truth, out of shame, immediately realizing why he asked.

 

I can guarantee you the exhaust unless new is going to sound worse when they take it apart and slap it back together. That’s a given and already happened to one of our members here. What WOULD be a worthwhile investment is new aftermarket JBA shorty headers or something similar with OEM or quality gaskets to save on labor. I think Remflex was the gasket of choice for the manifold gasket and Percy for the collector gaskets.

The 2000-2003 is infamous for leaks from cracks in the bad welding done by the manufacturer on the existing exhaust manifold.

 

@op find another dealer. They are playing hardball. I had my clapped out piece of crap truck’s frame replaced and it only cost me a couple hundred bucks for a few extra items.

 

@shifty` regarding lower control arms, those should be included in frame recall. @Tundra2 had his covered as well. Believe that @empty_lord said recently, maybe even this thread that they have to submit a claim of some sort in order to have the control arms included and they have to not be too lazy to do it.

Shocks are free labor as well. Any brake line on the frame is covered (I would suggest having the soft lines done too). Fuel straps covered too. I had the timing belt done on mine with no discount (and should have brought my own parts) and my total was $1438. My exhaust was half missing but I told them not to worry about it and replaced later. Sway bar end link labor should be included as should rack and pinion replacement as long as that's something you actually need. They have to remove these parts all you're doing is giving them a new item to install instead of old.

Timing belt would be a good idea if no record. As for drive shaft unless you're noticing something awful or it's rusted I'd pass or maybe get new from an aftermarket supplier.

I do agree with others this dealer is trying to give you the shaft (and not the driveshaft). I reccommend the dealer here in KY but I'm sure thats a hell of a drive for you.

Here is a link to my thread where I go into more detail LINK

 

Maybe sideways thinking here; see what the minimum $ they can do it for is, the absolute bare essentials to get it done and then sell the truck for the new frame and other good parts to someone who needs a frame and/or parts that can’t get the recall, or to someone who’s willing to take on all the other repairs themselves.
Should be able to get your money out of it and maybe a little on top then put it towards a truck that needs less work.
It’s a promising start for someone, but sounds like more than you might want to take on for your needs- no offence meant, but that’s a fair bit of work.
Just a thought.

 

Sell it in Ohio. Any POS that runs can be an Ohio truck as they have zero inspections, and don't give a hoot what is on the road. You could throw in a dozen metal hangers ( clothes type), some bailing wire and a roll of aluminum tape to sweeten the deal.

 

Not dismissing other posts but as @NickB_01TRD mentions in his post, many of the items to be replaced are part of the recall campaign, including car rental for up to 2 days.
Rust Recall Lemon | Page 2 | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

Don't be rushed to give Toyota approval for replacement, many good points are made by others for and against.

The below attached recall pdf's, SSC 90M Phase 1(3-15-10) and Safety Recall 09V-444 Updated Remedy Instructions("Tundra BXD" 01-17-13) may be of interest. The question and answers portion of the 2013 update, answers many questions of what they will/will not do.

 

Would someone please give me the link to the site where I can see if my truck is eligible for the frame recall? My brake lines are blowing out and I am putting alot of $$ into this my truck rt now.

 

Toyota.com

Or just Google "toyota vehicle registration" and it takes you to the login page.

 

You have an 06. 04-06 was covered by the service campaign which is no longer active.

Toyota.com/owners is the site you'd want to double check at though.

 

Read this thread, it links you to all the info you need to know in the first dozen paragraphs: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/