Bmf's big bumpin bonanza

So I've wanted a big, bangin system since I was in high school. Being an irresponsible adult, I finally have the means to achieve that. I figured I'd kinda catalog it here.

Here's what I got so far:

Head unit and door speakers:



Just some kinda basic stuff. Nothing that's gonna blow anyone's socks off. I don't need the big fancy double din touchscreen nav/backup camera/DVD player/margaritas machine. I am but a simple man.


Now, if we want a big bumpin bonanza, no simple 10" or 12" will do. We need big. We need boisterous. We need 15". And fuck it, let's get 2 of em.









They're just WO's but I think they'll do nicely. But we need something to power these big boys, don't we?



How about 1000 watts? And 300 watts for the door speakers. We're going old school with the JL Slash v1's.


The 1/0 OFC dual amp wiring kit is OTW. I just got box from the shop who's gonna build my box. They said $500-600 or so doll hairs. The dude was really.....amped up to do this build. I have an appt with him May 9th.

So, with a due date of May 9th, and T2S between now and then, I've got some work to do.
1: gut the interior
2: rear seat delete
3: deep clean the interior
4: sound deadening
5: wire everything
6: install deck/doors/amps
7: get box built/installed

Sound deadening recommendations are welcome, as are any questions, comments, concerns, or stories about how you wound up playing strip Boggle with the Hooters girls and a one legged midget are welcome.

 

With that much power to the sub-woofers, how do you keep the door panels and windows from vibrating? I imagine something like dynamat will work for the door panels but how does that work for the windows and their tracks not shaking? Just curious.

 

EH? WHAT DID YOU SAY?

 

I'm gonna be using a lot of A LOT OF dynamat. Body panels, interior panels, on the glass, whatever we need.

 

I didn’t think you could do it on glass. I guess for whatever isn’t exposed it makes sense. I’m curious now on how it turns out.

 

Dynamat is poor bang vs. buck. Noico is better. It'll have a little smell to it at first, like tar. Buy a good roller, no wider than 3", ideally a 1" and 2" are good. This is the last one I picked up:

$7 Rubber Roller, Ideal for Anti Skid Tape Construction Tools, Print, Ink and Stamping Tools (2.5", Black)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9AL149/

Just don't need to go overboard covering every square inch. You legit only need 50% coverage, there's seriously miniscule gain to be had beyond that, it's just not worth it to go any further unless you intend to compete. I think Kilmat is about the only thing you'll find cheaper but it's not as dense.

 

@bmf4069 - maybe this helps: https://soundproofguide.com/fatmat-vs-kilmat-vs-noico-vs-dynamat/

I was curious to see what was out there now and started poking around. That seems to give a pretty fair shootout, I think.

 

Yeah, we talked about sound deadening a while back. I'll get the Norco and a few rollers. 50% max. Thanks Schwifty!

 

Nah, I was just being facetious. Just goofin.

 

@shifty` how many ft² do you think I'll need? Interior and exterior panels.

 

So with this weekend being T2S prep, and next weekend being T2S, that gives me the 5th, 6th, and 7th of May to complete this. Cutting it close, but I think it's doable.

 

im in the 100% coverage boat....stuff is pretty cheap.

Give a good look around your door skins, if you see any signs of water, consider putting some covers on the rear of your speakers

 

OEM speaker baffles make it highly difficult for any water to get to the cone.

Last order of Noico I picked up was 25sf of Noico's 50mil, and I still have about 10% leftover after doing my extended cab '98 Sierra w/~40% coverage including inner and outer door, roof, back wall, floors, AND doing the door skins of the Tundra.

For the door skins, once you get in the doors, find the best place to peel back the plastic that'll let you get an arm in the door. Water on a paper towel to the inside of the door skin to get it clean, then rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to prep (the outer shell of the door) and let it dry before you roll it in. If you have gloves, it's worthwhile in the doors to avoid busting knuckles. Strategic patches to on the interior portion of the door are ideal, you're looking to add weight to avoid vibration. Anywhere a bar (lock, handle bars) floats above the door, be sure to lay a slice of deadener under it. Just don't lay anything in there in a way that makes it difficult to get in the door later or gums things up.

Same with rear door, but coverage is easier in the rear door.

Back wall: Cover the whole f'n thing, edge to edge, up to 1"-2" gap between sheets is fine. Doesn't need to look nice, it'll be covered. Toyota did a good job with ultra-thick (200mil+) liner on the floor under the rear cubbies in our AC trucks, to the point it made it a PITA to install my box in lieu of the passenger cubby where the OEM amp was housed. You really don't need to dig under. Anywhere you see OEM deadener on the floor, don't even bother. IIRC, there's OEM deadener under the footwells, but not under the seats.

You'll get the most bang vs. buck doing the full rear wall, a significant amount of the outer door skins (from inside), selectively doing the inner door skins, firewall area and footwells, and as much of the roof as you could possibly do (if you remove the headliner), along the rockers, and any pillar you can gain access to. 100% coverage is virtually impossible, and you'd have so many issues with panel fitment and fasteners it's not funny. You'll probably find - like I did - the plastic bits in the rear door willl cause more noise than anything, like the plastic handle piece, it's actualy an insert.

Be sure to take out the OEM baffles, deaden the edges, I know this probably sounds crazy, but anywhere plastic contacts metal (with exception of the actual door card, I never do those) is a good place to sandwich some in.

When I went back to look at my last order a sec ago, I noticed Kilmat and Siless both have 80mil of butyl in 30sf boxes for $50, which is about 50% cheaper than what Noico costs now, and ... if you shop around, avoid the hybrid, you want straight-up butyl deadener.

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PS - don't go overboard with popping off smaller panels now. The vast majority of noise you'll be getting inside your cab is from a couple of places:

• Any larger flimsier panels like the back wall and roof, since bendy/tight spots don't flex, this is where road noise transmits
• Anywhere pieces come together or float over one another, this is where rattles are generated from high SPL
• Spots where air exits the cabs, like the rear cab wall vents

In light of that, that's where to focus your attention. Think about it... if you spend 30 minutes popping off the trim on each back cab's C-pillar, just to put a strip of sound deadener on the C-pillar, which won't flex anyway because it's not wide and is a curved panel, and it doesn't have any pieces floating above it, and it doesn't have a vent ... guess what? You just wasted 30 minutes of time, and given the age of the plastics, might've also broken off pieces that helped hold it together -- and now you have a new source of rattles. This is another reason I think 80%, 90%, 100% coverage is not ideal. If you make more rattles during your mission to kill rattles, wtf is the point?

 

I had two JL 15W0’s in my old ‘69 Camaro. I ran them off an Orion XTR500. I could almost hear them over the exhaust.

keep us updated on your install!

 

Ohhh, i didn't know the first gens have factory baffles. Thats pretty cool!

 

Yeah, these plastic cans may be open in the rear (I can't 100% remember), but they do a great job of keeping water away from the speaker, and they don't screw with your sound, killing your low end, like the BS little foam baffles do.

You just gotta wriggle out the OEM connector on the side of the baffle and you have a conduit to pass your replacement wire thru, unscrew the OEM speaker, and screw in your upgraded driver. They sorta angle the speaker to offer some semblance of staging, it's not perfect, but about as much as an aftermarket kickpanel setup would give.

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We put two JBL 8’s in a QLogic enclosure in my son’s 2000 AC Tundra over Christmas break. The are running off a Down For sound JP8. It sounds excellent. The JP84 is running a set of JBL 6 1/2 components in the front doors and a set of 6 1/2 coaxial in the rear doors.

 

That enclosure is solid. Did you have any issues with getting the bulk of the enclosure bolted down? I had 2 bolts toward the rear of the cab corner that were a f'n bitch.

Is that JP8 zip-tied to the carpet?

 

Only one hole needed to be enlarged.

Yes both amps are zip tied to the carpet so they won’t move around. I had to massage the underside of the seats with a 2lb hammer so they would move back and forth freely. There was no room for a mounting plate.

 

Sequoia alternator upgrade?

 

Being an audiophile from a young age I get his feeling on creating a great sound. However, because I got into it young, here's a couple gentle suggestions to audio customizers. You have to base your audio on the acoustic possibilities of the actual interior space. Because of the interior dimensions, our trucks actually aren't the best for acoustics because of limited and isolated spaces for extras like amps and boxes, as well as sound needs to be unobstructed as it bounces around. A Sienna, built like a large speaker box, is much better. If you are doing a truck interior such as DC or AC, then less is more for a really 'clean' and deep base sound. High quality materials, amps, and 8" woofers would create an optimum experience interior wise unless you want to rock out the neighborhood, then it doesn't matter the quality of interior sound

 

If I am not mistaken the guys who take audio seriously in cars use a high density heavy material. It is expensive but they do 3 layers. Dynamay. High density heavy something with a thin foam as another. Overkill... maybe not. If you google it enough you will find it and buy it on Amazon. Your wheel wells is a big producer of noise and often overlooked. Using the heat gun with dynamat is your friend. Thin leather gloves cause it will slice you like fine papercuts. If i can find the product i am referring to I will post it..... Mass Loaded Vinyl. Just looked it up. Thats supposed to be the cats ass!

 

I'm gonna run it and see what happens. I'll either step up the alternator if it's bad, or put in a 2nd battery if it's not too bad.

 

Those are some beast amps! I had a 300/2 in kicker component’s and a 500/1 on a 12w7 about 20 years ago. That setup was clean and loud. Unless those 15w0s have a higher rating that the smaller w0s you better keep that gain real low. That’s a lot of power for those.

 

500w max for them.

 

I was running almost identical in one of my previous trucks, but 300/4 and 500/1: https://www.tundras.com/threads/cut...gen-1-crewmax-without-mod.72072/#post-1854747

Pic to save clicks, this was just initial wiring and staging before soundproofing, box install etc....

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That old Phoenix Gold amp looks like a straight Fosgate knockoff

 

Totally! It's actually a cap bank, the PowerGrid
(but you know what the PG on the chassis actually stands for)

You can see all the little caps through the slits in the housing. @bmf4069 I sent all three of these to you, right? Are you going to install the PG cap grid?

If it's interesting @KNABORES here's an archive of the unit:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-2003-Phoenix-Gold-PowerGrid-10-Farad-Capacitor.html

And here's PG's chintzy install sheet.
https://download.phoenixphorum.com/Manuals/Accessories/Powergrid_Manual.pdf

 

Those amps look familiar!

How did you mount to the back wall? Those look like hex head self tappers. I'd like to put mine there, but if I mount the box in front of them they become inaccessible.