General Supercharger Thread

Do you know where the IAT sensor is located on the Whipple?

 

Unless maybe something happened on their drive home. *Grabbing at straws*

Either of you have some sort of logging software?

Thanks for sharing your findings, sorry you're having to drop the fuel tank multiple times,....and for making me wonder in the back of my mind what kind of hose I randomly grabbed out of the parts room at work,

 

I just placed an order through Summit for:

Vibrant Performance 18072 - Vibrant Performance Submersible PTFE Fuel Tubing Kits

and

Radium Engineering 20-0180 - Radium Engineering Venturi Jet Pump Kits

Thanks @armyoffoo for posting that at just the right time!

dang i forgot that duck bill thingie. edit order lol

 

We’re going to try a few things. One is fit the maggy box back. Then check for leaks etc also try and load the whipple canned tune to see.

 

It’s the same as the Magnuson. It references the temp sensor of the MAF.

 

Hey guys not to interrupt the whipple convo but the Maggie that’s for sale on Instagram…. Any concerns with used magnuson? I can get a new one for 2018 flex fuel but this is a good deal if legit. Other concern is the guy is an FB marketer that lists items on his page for others. So basically a 3rd party. Most of the pics I’ve seen are when the SC was new. My BS radar is going off. Only cause why go through trouble of removing an SC cause youre selling the truck? Most people will pay more for an SC truck and if you remove and use a 3rd party to sell then more fees and deducts. I have a hard time believing someone in California can’t sell a Magnuson supercharger for $3k.

 

You'd have to post which one. The one listed a few days back for $3k is a scam.

 

That is correct I missed the scam part but the one posted a couple days ago

 

Seemed like BS. I’m in Nj but the sc in Cali send half and then when you get it send the other half. Guys got 500 followers on IG

 

Thanks for confirming Snivilous I could smell the BS right off the bat

 

Idk which one you're referring to, this one is a scam for certain.




I'd be very wary if you find one for $3k. They're out there, but I'd have someone you know physically look at it (and buy it ideally). Even talking to someone on the phone wouldn't sell me. $3k is right in the believable range people want to jump on.

 

That’s the one. Up top Walt. The grammar in my conversation with them alone shows me it’s BS.

 

At first he says he’s in NJ and when I say I got someone to check it out he immediately says he’s selling for someone in California.

 

Who in their right mind would let you pay half now and half after delivery? If I was selling my supercharger, I would want 100 percent before it left my possession. But that’s just me.

 

That is interesting. So no post compression temp?

 

Yes scam for sure

 

Not as the kit comes as I remember someone with a Whipple asking if it could be added. It might be easier on the Whipple to add one though. I think a bunch of the little intake runners have tapped holes that are just plugged on the Whipple.

 

I bet it's the bypass valve stuck open.

not because I know what I'm talking about(i don't)...but because it's a guess.

 

Ooohh baby. Saw this posted on the Facebook page for the 6.6 L8T GM HD trucks. I think that will be the next one in a few years….

 

bear with me...I have more cannon fodder...


now that I have a boost gauge...

I'm amazed at:
how much I don't use boost.
how quick boost comes on
how fast AFR drops.

I cruise on hwy @ ~-10.0...I'll slowly pass a car & reach -5.00...I guess that is the inches of mercury thing measuring vacuum. (see, I pay attention)

and if I press a bit harder I hit 4.5lbs. punching it climbs to 8lbs easy.

going over the ship channel bridge on cruise @ 60mph will hit 3lbs.

but, I'm in vacuum most of time. around the town i may hit 1lb.

it's nice to know this. explains a lot.


question....when I go from -10 to -5 is the bypass closing?

 

Just ordered the Innovate PSB-1 gauge. I went through Amazon and had it shipped to one of their lockers for pickup (should be here tomorrow). I expect a handful of packages coming already this week and will have some explaining to do, no need for another delivery.

 

I'm a fan of the Innovate gauges, with Cravenspeed mounts, from a diagnostic standpoint. The mounts are great for 4R and Tacoma, and I can see why someone would appreciate them just for having for easy reference while driving, although personally I prefer mounts in more subtle places like air vents.

For the tundra, I feel like the cravenspeed obscures a bit too much of the gauge clusters for my liking, but you can't have everything be perfect I suppose.

I had an air vent mount for my boost gauge in my 2017 TT Tacoma and could see myself going for one in my Tundra, but airflow can't be completely ruined since I live in the desert and need that AC lol

The cravenspeed would be perfect if it just obscured a bit less of the center dash stuff.

 

I really want to mount my gauges in the center area on top of the dash, but haven't seen any options for it. If you lift up on the pad, there's a few indentations to keep the pad in place. I never use that spot for anything

 

I wonder if you could get someone to design and 3D print a mount for that area, and perhaps use the same mounting system as what existing options for that spot use (like the RagoFab piece for example, I think they've got a thing that sits right there for mounting various "overland" stuff).

I could go for a nicely made mount sitting right there, either a 2 or 3 gauge option.

Just would want it to be subtle or sleek enough that it doesn't look like some 370z ricer shit lol

 

Which one do we use, the Rigid or Flexible AFE filter?

https://afepower.com/afe-power-30-10146-magnum-flow-pro-5r-air-filter#overview

Guessing Rigid. I just noticed Rigid has years 07-21, while Flexible says 13-21.

 

You’ll want to get the

$94 31-10146 aFe POWER Magnum FLOW OE Replacement Air Filter w/Pro DRY S Media for Toyota Tundra 07-21 V6-4.0L/V8-4.6L/4.7L/5.7L #31-10146

31-10146.

 

I was set on the cravenspeed until @HulkSmurf14 posted the Glowshift Air Vent mount (see post #6273 for his install). To me this looks so much cleaner and I'll be going this route now.

 

I'm not sure the exact order of operations of the bypass valve. At idle there is max vacuum since the throttle plate is closed so the engine is sucking really hard trying to pull air in. For a N/A engine there would be minimal vacuum at full throttle with the throttle plate fully open. I THINK the bypass valve works that it's fully closed at zero vacuum (no bypassing), so more vacuum = more bypassing. Which would mean the bypass valve motion is linear to your throttle plate motion. ie at idle there's full bypass, WOT is full boost, and half throttle is "half boost" but because there's half vacuum you still end up measuring a net vacuum. And at some point there is a cross over where a % of throttle allows a certain vacuum that allows enough boost to gain a net positive boost level (and it reads 0+ psi).

Long story short, I think the bypass valve is constantly moving and is effectively slaved to the throttle plate.

Other things to note, now that you have a gauge: your boost/vac is more or less your throttle position. Your AFR drops quickly because at a certain throttle position fuel enrichment starts, and that is instantly just a multiplier on fuel. So if your enrichment is at 40deg and you see it hit enrichment you know your throttle angle. I'm probably a bit conservative but I like my tunes to start enrichment right when boost starts. A couple psi is okay, but I try to stay max 2-3psi without enrichment if possible. If you change your pulley or altitude (same effect) then you will see your boost come in at different points, but your enrichment will happen at the same TPS value. This means if you go up in elevation then you will go into enrichment earlier than your boost normally comes on, and the opposite is true that you will make more boost before enrichment if you go down in elevation (or drop pulley sizes for more boost).

There's a surprising amount of data you can glean from the boost value in conjunction with the AFR.

 

Pops whipple update. Think we've found the issue. The bypass valve is stuck open due to the wrong bolt being used on the blower base plate. The arm that moves is stuck on the bolt in the open position ... So changing that out or adjust the arm bracket and see how she does. More to come.

 

@nobodyintexas nailed it.