Did I just fry my head unit?

But thanks for all the help. I would have definitely brought it to a shop and paid a fortune for them to change a fuse

 

You're welcome!

It's almost always the stupid shit that gets everyone. Sometimes, the "stupid shit" in question is just the previous owner, or installer.

Hell yeah, you can nix OEM amp totally! You just need the bypass harness to be wired up properly, and it'd be ideal to un-fugger-up that wiring. You should actually be able to unplug the other harness attached to the amp, and remove the amp totally. But you may just want to let the shop do it.

Hell yeah, that amp would work! Which kicker amp model# is that? Based on the terminal block, I'm guessing it's only 2 channel, with mono function. If so, it's perfect for a single sub or pair of subs. If you tell me the model number I'll see what it can support and suggest a voice coil + impedance setup for a new sub.

FYI: Kicker Comp RT subs are what I bought for my truck, I'm a JL Audio nutbag but they didn't have any compelling shallow-mount sub options for me. I assume that's just a passive radiator on the right, and this was a pre-fab enclosure you bought?

JL, Kicker, and Punch are primarily what I aim for for subs & amps. You really can't go wrong with either of the three. Amps and subs are their bread & butter. I just don't do their mids and highs. You get better sound sticking with components from brands known to excel in that specific component.

 

I had 3 amps in my 2005 DC mounted under the front seat, but I had a bench seat..
Used a pair of Punch amps I bought in the 1980s and another Punch for the sub...



I had a single 10" enclosure made that straddled the rear seat hump.
That way I could easily take it out if I needed the room.

 

That sub you have in that pic is great. I just put that same set in my Corvette recently.

 

I had it in a single cab 2018 f 250 and I loved it. It hit decently hard and doesn’t take up much space

 

I installed a radio, my first time, in this 1st Gen. The previous owner had cut and connected wiring so it wasn’t a simple harness replacement, but I got through it (maybe some time I’ll go back and do it “righter” as I’ve learned a bit since then), but it was easy enough, and a good learning experience, so this is me hopping into your thread to encourage you to give it a shot.

If your truck’s previous owner didn’t mangle everything, and you can swap in a premade wiring harness from Crutchfield, that’d be great. And with Shifty and others here to look at your pics, once you post what’s back there, it’ll almost be like having an installer at your shoulder, walking you through it!

Edit: somehow I missed that you’ve already posted pics and got feedback. Anyway, I bought a crimper to install my current radio… had not done anything similar before… so I know it’s possible. Whatever you decide, looks like you’re back in good stead.

 

The great part about modern radio stuff is we've reached point where we're at pretty common standards for aftermarket components and harnesses. Like, speakers will always be on purple, green, white, and grey wires, each always corresponds to the same color. Solid yellow is virtually always constant power, red is almost always switched/ACC power, black is always ground. I've rarely seen blue wires not being used for remote power signal/turn-on wire (for power antennae, amplifier turn-on signal, etc.)

Once you get into your 1st install and realize a lot of this stuff, it really is just a matter of having a good pair of crimpers, and proper fastener to crimp on, and sometimes taking a second to think through cases where you may need to crimp three wires together - like, if you have your stereo, and a steering wheel control adapter module, you may need to crimp both onto the single power wire, merging the three together.

Anyone can do it. But it helps to have someone to lean on when you hit those weird corner cases and some of the Engrish-ass instructions aren't really helping.

 

This looks a lot like someone’s stereo I know except they use insulated spade connectors.