1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I did a thing...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-double-cab-tundra.67978/page-9#post-2984960

 

That's effectively what we did. This used to be my fairly-open shop area. Basically we jacked/supported and took out two load bearing sections, installed LVLs to open things up a little bit more, while closing off a smaller shop area, a new closet, our HVAC, and a bathroom. Dashed lines in pic are where load bearing walls were. Green walls are new walls.

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I see you added S-maxx extended links. Did you bother with Duros or ... wait, you're 2WD? I was ask if you bothered w/diff drop or not, but I guess it doesn't apply.

 

No 4WD for me. Kind of don't need it here in So Cal.

 

I still have a diff drop New in bag from Wheelers offroad that I'd like to install on crackie. One day...

 

At $35, I just went ahead and picked one up.

 

i found aftermarket progressive coils.
https://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/coilsuspension.php

And a motor trend article that talks about the early trd models having special shocks and progressive springs.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/reviews/2000-toyota-tundra-2/amp/

 

I found SPC arms, rebranded as Eibach, $484 + tax + free shipping. Everyone else is running them at $602 up 'til BF.

https://eliteracefab.com/products/eibach-pro-alignment-front-kit-for-00-06-toyota-tundra

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I'm still looking for Toyota parts sale.

 

Arent spc mevotech?

i've already talked myself into camberg or solo.

talked to victory 4x4, they didnt want to adapt an LC/LX470 bumper for a first gen. Next time i call, i'm gonna get em to send me higher up the ladder so i can find out why. Or if a ?'05-'15? Taco bumper could work. Poor phone girl just zoned out when i said 2002.

 

My moms rad popped on her rav4 over the weekend, I told her don’t let the shop put anything but a Denso in there, he was feeding her a line of bs

 

That's why I have one too. It was cheap lol

 

They always do. Looks like Rock Auto sells a Denso replacement for my 2012 for $118. It specifies it's for RAV4's made in Japan. I need to look at my door sticker.

Has she had to replace her upper radiator hose yet? Apparently it's a common issue. Mine developed a small hole.

 

Mevotech is rebranded SPC.

 

So I think all RAV fours are made in Kentucky except for the prime model. But he said he was going to replace both hoses while they replaced it

 

My door sticker says made in Canada. I know some of this generation were made in Japan because I've run into this with parts before. I just checked Denso's website and they don't even list a radiator for mine. That's a bummer. KOYO makes one though.

 

Hahah now I feel like a dick for saying ONLY DENSO!
I didn’t even notice that “for vehicle made in Japan

 

Hey @shifty` do we have a towing thread? Specifically I’m looking if you can convert a 02 with 4 pin to a 7pin

 

What he said ^^
SPC manufactures (at least the metal bits for) Eibach and Mevotech upper arms.

Thing is, or two things actually.

One, I don't know much of anything about Mevotech except they have some shit products and some good products, and from what I see online, I've no faith I'd get good support from them if I have issues. I've dealt with Eibach plenty over the decades, and I know what to expect from their support. That's worth a few $$ to me.

Two, arms are fabbed by SPC, stamped on them, clearly. But I have yet to see anyone confirm whether the bushings on Mevotech / Eibach are also SPC, or what. That said, if I'm guessing between who is going to use a better quality bushing at the price point, I trust Eibach. EDIT: I bought the Eibach. These are totally just the SPC arms, with SPC bushings. Same product, way cheaper.

My choice to go Eibach may cost me, say, a set of Duros in dollar value. I was willing to pay the extra ~$150 for Eibach.

But I'd love to know the answer to the bushing thing for the Mevotech upper arms

 

@daveeasa had a private message thread going back and forth about it. I may have bled some of it over into a post. Lemme grab the adapter harness p/n and search the forum on that.

There's a couple of bits to it though - the receptacle, the actual subframe parts, the rear tee/adapter harness, and then there's something for wiring in the dash related to brake controls, maybe? That latter bit is all I had trouble figuring out.

 

DA FUK?

Attaboy! Done right.

 

Had a 7 pin installed in my 2000. Essentially the 4 flat plus all
Custom wiring for the brakes and power. New fuses under the hood with dedicated power wires for the controller and the rear plug. Cost me $350 for the controller and the wiring in 2010 dollars.

 

Ok, so ... this is what I can kick your way...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/travel-trailer-gvw.110417/#post-2855385

Roman confirmed my p/n for the harness in another thread here in 1st Gen forum.

 

think that’s fun, check out the “custom wiring” I found in the walls. Must be a “master electrician” too.

 

Oh wow. Yeah, I wouldn't feel safe in that place until I found and un-fuggered-up everything he touched.

 

It’s been stripped bare. Everything you can see or touch is getting refinished or replaced. All the receptacles and lighting will be updated. All the plumbing fixtures etc. All the paneling is out, Sheetrock is coming. All new windows and doors as well. It’s a 1988 time capsule.

 

I would love to fucking strangle anyone who does heify feify shit like that.

 

You can do it yourself for under 100 bucks worth of 10g wire, Auto reset breaker, and connectors plus whatever controller you get (I like proportional ones). A lot of the 7 pin set ups will even just have a plug in for your 4 pin so then you are really just running the power wire for the brakes and acc power primarily.

Depending on level of cold in your area 350 is pretty reasonable for sure.

 

I have headlights again! Yay

 

Yeah, I suggested a 4 to 7 adapter for tundra2. Need a controller to get the 4. Reverse is already there. So the rest is dedicated power and brake controller output. Mine has what looks like an OEM connection to inject power to the 9 pin meant to run the controller and receive the output.