General Supercharger Thread

Same for me, I didn’t start getting the code until I was tuned stage 2. But if you look up what the code means, P0101 isn’t for MAF out of range. Maybe they’re connected in some way. Chris from Harrop did say it was mostly happening on tuned trucks. Who knows. Upgrade your intake as planned and see if it goes away! Then we will know.

 

Ahhh

Yea this is what I thought you were referring to, modify one of the other pulleys to snug up the belt when we drop pulley sizes. Though hopefully that's not needed, I want to be able to swap pulleys in a parking lot in 5 minutes and that doesn't involve fucking with anything else.

 

Well you can still swap pullies etc. Just change belt length. I did the on my cobra with an interchangeable upper. I would change from 2.93 to 2.76 via hub then just throw the shorter belt. Just whip up some larger idlers and lets see what length belt it would need to fit with your smaller pulley

 

I guess if you corrected an idler so that we use a belt range that has more options then that fixes it. Like increase the idler size so the stock belt works on a 2.3 pulley and the shorter belt (currently 2.3 belt) is for a 2.0

 

Exactly! I think the idler just bottom left of the blower snout can go up in size. This would add more belt "Wrap" around the pulley as well for more grip less slip. Then maybe another idler. Ideally I would like to be able to upgrade all idlers to something more beefy and better bearings and larger

 

Just to show options, this is what Taco world does, a pulley wrap mod

Pulley wrap mod for pulley's 2.7 and below (@Roostfactor invention):

Instructions to DIY, for additional clarification, or to purchase a pre-fabbed kit (which I did, because, well I got lazy) contact Roostfactor himself:

- Here are the parts for the pulley wrap.
- Larger washers are shown in photo
- I make the brackets out of 1/8 x 1" stainless but a good steel (painted) would work. - Make sure you taper it as shown for two reasons, one is to prevent the belt from --possible rubbing and 2 to give the large washers a full surface to rest against.
- 1 M8 x 30 10mm flange head bolt
- 1 M8 x 40 10mm flange head bolt. You need these to be 10mm heads or you wont have enough room for adjustment.
- I don't have the size of the smaller washer but you can see how it is ground down on one side. This allows for further adjustment.
- Pulley comes from a Dayco Timing Belt Kit. Part # 84041 Rockauto has them cheapest I have found.
- Use one thick washer or two thinner ones. If you don't the washer may bend into the slit in the pulley. There is a fair amount of load on this part so you want it to be solid.

Option two: @BillDaCat8 has made another version of the pulley wrap mod which appears to be mostly bolt on. It may require some machining work however, contact him directly for more information if this post does not answer your questions:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tricks-and-mods.518932/page-772#post-20755565

 

Trans cooler and stage 2 Harrop w/ Prospeed goodies being installed first week of November

 

Welcome to the dark side, the 12 stages of boosting a Tundra.

 

Been eyeing the Harrop lately for my Fat Amy... lol

So is that sensor wiring being stretched a common issue?

 

my understanding is - it is not common.

I'm gonna finagle a support for the harness. to keep it from downward stress.

 

Is the new harness longer? Better connectors?

 

WTB: TRD Supercharger sticker/decal kit if anyone has it leftover, or knows the part number for it, Hardware Bag H on instructions.

I may buy something like this for a side decal. IDK yet I'm kinda minimalist
https://supdec.com/catalog?product_id=1962

 

Are these what you're looking for?



PM me your mailing address and I'll put them in a USPS envelope.

 

TBH - it looks the same

 

I've got Doug Thorley Tri-Y's. Seemingly the last set in the country from what I found. Got them based on the recommendation of Matt Smith.

 

Ships Directly From Supplier
Estimated Ship Date: Jan 11, 2023

 

For 2nd gen? When I reached out directly they told me no more. No one had them in stock including SDHQ. Matt used to work for SDHQ and he told me to call and ask for a certain person and tell them there was a pair stashed in a specific room and they went and found them for me and sold me them.

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/t...-tundra-5.7l-v8-long-tube-tri-y-headers_15790

 

TBH that was a quote from SummitRacing website. So probably not accurate. Get a mix of in/out of stock just googling. Likely all gone

 

Another P0121 CEL issue :-( Buddy of mine

 

awwww. Mannnnn

 

have him continuity check it

see if the same pole failed as mine

just wondering

 

I have a set that have been sitting in my garage for over a year (for an LX560, no air) but I have read boosted they lose power (I was planning on installing this winter)

The air is tuned out by my HP Tune & I have the block off plates btw.

 

I was in a situation where I had to get midpipes made to eliminate my cats anyway so figured at the same time I'd just do the headers. Everyone involved in getting my truck up and running and tuned was all for it though. If nothing else I guess it sounds good.

 

Oof

 

I was in a similar boat getting rid of the cats and Keith talked me into the headers

 

He was one of the ones I spoke to as well.

 

Longtubes should usually gain power on an SC truck. I know Shrek at DAP said ARH long tubes gained 42hp and 59 tq on an NA truck, and he said even more on SC. I think the only time it wouldn’t is if the headers just don’t flow great. Boost PSI isn’t power, like I think it was Rey that said…boost psi is just resistance to flow. I think Longtubes are an important piece of the puzzle to getting 600whp.

 

all right ...

1. I just did the @reywcms thing that seals the passenger wheel well from the engine bay. I used Gorilla tape. going to the boat today - will monitor IAT.

2. Zip tied the Harrop harness to the intake tube in such a way as to relieve any stress on the harness.



Then, I gotta get the dragy out. you hombres are putting up some big numbers.

 

Well. Sealing the engine bay Made zero difference. I saw the same 25-27 degree delta between dash temp and harrop temp monitor

 

The only time I saw a smaller delta in IAT was when I went faster

anything over 70 made the delta come down 2 points

so like we all said. It’s just heat soak. Gotta move more air over the intercooler