What home improvement work did you do today?

Can you just remove the drywall on one side all together?(from countertop down) Let the rest sit on top of the counter?

 

We started two bathroom overhauls today. By we I mean the contractor I hired. He cut the counter top in one of them.

 

Removing the sheetrock, you'd need to redo the corner, too. See if there's one you like that's a 1/4" narrower?

If it's a non-standard width, may have to get a countertop cut, then a vanity base narrower, that you can do a fill piece on the side (there's a term for that, but I don't remember what it is) to fill up the alcove?

 

Router table in place, did a test bead on a scrap. Then, ran a plank of birdseye maple through the table saw clamped to a straightedge, to get a straight board. Did two beads, ripped the birdseye to 3"x 1/4", and glued and clamped the beads to it, to make a contrast molding (like you see in a lot of 30s-50s veneered furniture)...

 

Man you guys are quick to respond. Thanks so much.

I wondered that. That’s better than replacing the drywall to me.

The stupid top is glued down from factory but I guess I could separate it and hope not to Break anything. Not sure where I would take it to get cut though.

It’s a 48” vanity but the top is wider. Bunch of liars. The back corner would be hidden and then above the vanity would be a backsplash so is there any reason I couldn’t just leave it at the studs?

 

Scribe the top, less an 1/8 and silicone in.

 

I wasn't here when the guy cut the vanity top. My project manager said she thought he used a circular saw. She made a 3 inch circle with her hands. Depending on the overhang you might be able to trim it on the left side.

 

I like the angle of the bike rack. What kind did you use?

 

get a grinder with a diamond blade and trim a 1/4 inch off the left side door of the counter. You’ll caulk the wall so you’ll never see it.

 

It's a Steady Rack. They're great since they can swing out in either direction and is really easy to use and get the bikes on. You don't have to fiddle with the bike trying to slot it into a hook and it won't damage your rim. It's also easy for my spouse to use who has limited upper body strength to lift bikes up on a rack. They're pricey but if she likes it and easy for her to use then it's worth it.

https://www.steadyrack.com/

 

Tried my hand at woodworking. This shit is tough to get precise. Especially once youre halfway through and realize your miter saw is off by a degree lol...46 and 44 degrees makes a 90 right?

Needless to say I've spent over $300 the past two days on machinist measuring tools and woodworking stuff...hooked me.

 

I know, I justify so many tools by, "I can do it cheaper than hiring somebody or buying one, and I'll still have the tools!"

 

Cant count how many times ive used this and the best part is its always true!

 

@1UPPER

What goes into installing an elevator? Anything crazy, or just pre-fab unit that you slide in and wire up?

 

I used to install residential elevators in college. They are pretty straightforward but more involved than just slide in and place. I could elaborate but it would be a lot to type and it’s been a while since I put one in.

I’m interested to see what @1UPPER says.

 

Finished this up and starting on a pinewood fence for the 1/4" trim router.

 

Trane has been installed Large unit outside and the the 3 mini-splits in the home... Definitely worth the 4 month wait

2nd pic is the unit out in the "To be finished Florida Room" , again waiting on supplies and permitting

This weekend or next the 3 old units will travel to my son's home including those ugly a$$ metal boxes...

 

Fence with vacuum exhaust port and storage for router bits/attachments made. I may end up capping them off with a hinge to make mini cabinets...we will see how well the shop vac keeps sawdust at bay. Side walls keep it center but just have to clamp it down when in use.

 

To be honest I’ve not installed an elevator just yet but I’m doing a bunch of research and talking to several companies and other builders I know. The most common elevator I’ve been told about is an in line gear drive system. It’s more cost affective and straight forward for an install but it’s more noticeable for noise levels. You can also do a hydraulic elevator lift but it’s more expensive, requires yearly inspections but its very quiet. The other option I looked into was a lift driven elevators.

I will have to make sure my walls and elevator chase have framed with blocking per the specs. I will need to have a 8”-12” deep pit sunken into my foundation slab with a drain pipe built in the slab and drained to the outside. The interior finishes on the elevator and having glass doors will definitely add more cost to the whole budget. Still working out those details now.

 

Just had this conversation at work

 

Friend if my wife’s is doing one in her parents new house. It’s pretty involved…from the little bit I’ve been following it.

 

Think I'm done. It isn't perfect but the majority of it minus the fence and base are made from cheap common wood so....curvy. And my freehand routing needs some work with the hinge inlays for the mini cabinets but, it's functional and ready to build stuff. Inlay front fence made. The locks are threaded inserts in a ripped and planed common board, 5/16 bolts, some spacers, a wing nut welded to the top, and the tension comes from a rubber shower head grommet that has a gap that compresses with pressure and locks the board down. Works perfectly and zeroed it earlier. Removable with a spare insert made to make it a flat table again when needed.

 

Textured already?

 

Has the garage been used as a garage? As in like mine, I'm constantly welding/grinding so shit is everywhere and I'm constantly cleaning the walls.

If it's relatively clean, just wipe it off of dust and paint with industrial wall paint. Get a sprayer if you can much easier.

If it's like my garage, get a drywall sanding pole and some 80 or 100 grit paper, scuff the walls up, wipe down, and paint. I need to repaint my garage but the amount if sanding I'd need to do would be stupid. I'm probably going to just gut the drywall and reinsulate

Satin is the way to go for garage with good lighting. If lighting is just okay, semi gloss will be fine. Anything glossier will show imperfections more.