Crackhead resurrection

Yesterday, I drove home dry. All 12 miles of it from the alignment shop. Couldn't get the drain plug off, but did get the fill plug off. Ran a hose from the top of the engine to the fill plug. Had dad pour in the gear oil. Lucas 75W-90 synthetic.

Had very small glitters come out the Overflow. Haven't driven since buttoning everything up. Feeling good about it. Truck drives straight after alignment, and brakes feel great brake fluid flush.

Started to round the drain plug and stopped. Any tips on how to get it out short of welding a bolt to it? I tried to shock the threads with a BFH. No go.

 

Did all the fluid come out when you pulled axles?
You could try some heat, then spray with penetrant fluid, a few cycles of that and then a wack with Mr BFH

 

Yeah, after having trouble with mine I knew you would have trouble too since your rust situation is/ was a bit worse.

Empty gave this advice to me awhile back. Could also try welding a nut onto the drain plug.

 

This could be a good time for an inexpensive toolbox add, assuming you don't have one of these already.

If it were me, I'd take a Dremel or similar to grind a notch in the head. Then go for a drive to warm it up, park, take a manual impact driver (

TEKTON 3/8" Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905

like this) with a flathead installed, insert into your new slot, then BFH it.

If you wanted to go overboard, you could try hitting it with PBB or Kroil while hot, or use a torch to create heat, then cool off with the spray. Anything to cause heat/cold expansion and contraction may pop it free.

I know you're religious with the anti-seize and you'll apply it after.

Glad to hear nothing is clearly toast, but obviously drain-and-fill to clear debris out after, and cross your fingers there's no chunks.

​

 

I actually already have one! I just straight up forgot about it. I'll give that a try after a few drives.

 

Just don't go nuts on it. Last thing you want to do is crack your case repeatedly hammering it. i.e. best bet may be a lighter weight 1lb stubby ball peen vs. 3lb+ hand sledge.

I assume that's a steel plug in an alloy housing. That's the unfortunate part about alloy and steel, they tend to chemically bond into each other with time. I'm struggling with that issue right now, just learned I may lose a sale that would otherwise dump $hundreds into my truck slush. While packing, we found an alloy part (stem) firmly seated inside a steel tube. If it won't come free with some finessing in the next hour or three, I doubt the buyer'll want it anymore, and I lose the sale. Or, if he does still want it, I'd need to knock $100 off, plus pay +$60 extra on shipping and another +$60 to the guy i've got freighting it out, and I'm making, like, $50 profit out of it.

 

I wonder if the trick recommended for stuck spark plugs would work here too. Try to tighten it a hair, then try to loosen. Basically try to move it back and forth. Gentle of course. Don't mangle it like I would.

Heat and penetrant sounds good too.

 

Worst case scenario... I drop the truck off with Bruce once my new plugs come in. I'm sure he could weld a nut on that plug no problem. I just don't have a welder... lol

 

Gave an over on the other place. Quick synopsis of everything that'd already here.

 

WOMP WOMP.

Login required. Meh. (But I guess I already read everything here)

​

 

You read the detailed version here. Much less detail there.

 

I have it off:



Do you need the screws too?

 

Yeah, send em. I'll PM you.

 

Hell yeah, makin' the magic happen right here!

 

No, this is making the Magic happen.


Here's a pic of the rear bump stops at this gas station.


Happy to report that 4HI, and 4LO both work as normal with no ill effects. Still need to flush the front diff out, but a challenge for another day.

1988 Jayco 2450 travel camper. 3920 lbs. Truck did great the 240 miles home. Averaged 8MPG while towing.

 

FTFY bud

And that's in fantastic shape for an '88. You can literally go anywhere, live anywhere, do anything in that mf!

 

That's the idea!! More pics tomorrow. Picked it up for $5,300. Needs a little bit of work, but it's 95% just paint...

Clean title. We are the 4th owners.

I do need to figure out these electric brakes. From the factory, these came with a round 7 pin harness. This one has a 4 pin flat...

 

If the trailer has a 4 pin, then the brakes don't work. You really, really need those to work. Also, get a weight distributing hitch.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-415564.html#:~:text=The 4 flat connector doesn,t work well at all.

 

I know the brakes don't work. Which is why I need to convert the truck to a 7 pin round, and convert the trailer to a 7 pin round, and get a brake controller...

Why a weight distributing hitch?

 

By the time you load anything (propane, water, food, clothes, etc) you will be near 5,000 lbs or more. Even on a larger 2 or 2.5 Gen that's when it's pretty much a requirement. Also, it handles much, much better, more stable, less sway. Believe me, it's a no-brainer once you tow with one.

 

The WDH will distribute the weight more evenly, back to the trailer and also back to the front axle of the truck. Obviously, having weight back on the front steer axle greatly improves stability and reduces some of the sag. Plus, most also have anti-sway, which is safer and reduces those white knuckle moments. Here is a pic of my set-up (trailer max is 7,000 lbs), you can see the truck is level.
And, yes, I know you're a 1st Gen guy, so mandatory pic of my 2000 that I owned for 20 years

 

That salsa AC is a beauty!

 

Alright, alright. I understand now. Safer, easier, more balanced.

Y'all got any brands that are good? Reccomendations?

I saw some Curts on Scamazon, and a few other brands. Camco, weigh safe, equalizer, etc

 

Best truck ever. That truck went from hauling my son around as a kid in the AC cab, to being his first vehicle at 16, to me shipping it to D.C. so he would have something to drive while he was in the Navy.

 

Hell yes!

 

This is what I have. They work well.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/

 

You bringing this bad boy to T2S next year?

 

I run an equalizer, which I love, but even the Harbor Freight is a serviceable unit. Properly installed and adjusted is more important than brand.

 

Wait ... is there clear sign someone modified it down the road? 3 owners, I'm sure it got tweaked here or there. Just curious.

How does insurance work on something like that?

Neighbor across the street has damn good taste.

​

​

 

I've only got experience with one trailer with brakes and if it's anything like that one instead of chasing electrical issues just buy a whole new brake kit and replace the wiring since you have no idea what the condition of either are.