Pointers on wiring this correctly

Building a box for my cap- going to run wire from battery +/- to rear of bed.
That wire will go into a box where I have mounted


But I don’t want it to be a constant hot so I bought some rocker switches

I’d like to use this switch to kill all power to the switch panel.
The panel has bare positive posts to wire lights to the switches and I have a negative bus bar as well.
Couple of other pics
It seems straight forward but do I tie the neg from battery to bus bar and the neg from toggle and lights all into same bus bar as a common ground?

thanks!

 

Also-
Running 12 gauge wire to back.
Just want to power some leds / 12v cig / charge phone etc while camping without putting it on the acc system and have volt meter to keep tack of how the battery is doing.

 

Wait you just want to wire a switch panel directly to your trucks battery, and then mount the panel in the bed to run lights, phone chargers ect?

Have you done an calcuations on max potentional load of the circuit and what power it could be pulling from your battery?

 

I recently did something similar with this from Amazon.

Depvko Cigarette Lighter Socket Panel Splitter, 4 in 1 Dual Quick Charge 3.0 Aluminum Metal 12 Volt USB Outlet with LED Digital Voltmeter&Rocker Toggle Switch for Car Boat Marine RV, etc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SHBBT8C?ie=UTF8

All i did was run the wire from the fuse panel next to my switch pro in the engine bay, to a small fuse panel in a little project box, then wired the outlets to the fuse panel in the project box. I am overly cautious and a fan of overkill, so I have a 10amp fuse in the bed, then a 15 amp fuse on the panel in the engine bay. I also used 8 guage wire. 0 voltage drop.

A word of advice on those cheap chinese electronic panels, the wiring and connectors are usually pretty garbage, i used my own 12g wire and marine rated connectors. Also the polarities on the sockets were reversed from the factory, took me a while before it dawned on me that chinese QC sucks and they probably switched leads.

 

You can run it from the battery to the back just put a fuse on the 12g wire as close to the battery as you can.

 

I have not - I currently have a few led lights back there now. Just looking to clean it up. If the volt meter was always drawing power/ hot I wouldn’t be messing with a master switch.

so my game plan is from battery have a 15a fuse - then wire run to box. In box have pos to master switch - from there I’m kinda lost.
Each led light has its own fuse. My cap is set up as a camper. Wanted cig power for awning light plug in erc. Everything is pretty low power