RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

It’s a 6-fuse micro fuse block (uses same fuses as OEM). I’m going to run the under hood lights and front camera through it, and later some other stuff that I don’t control via the SwitchPro (not sure what yet)

 

Hey Casey, where did you get the 3 gang switch plate for the rear window relocation mod?

 

I modeled and 3D printed it myself.
Adam (abomb60) is offering them printed using the file I made - you can find info and details in this thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/fs-3-switch-panel-insert-plate.94140/

If you’ve got a printer, directions for making one are here
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-7#post-2065635

And the STL file is here
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-9#post-2117114

 

O

Ok yea I bought one from him but the one in your pics looks way smoother finished. Just thought it was maybe a different one. Thanks!

 

That's cuz I wet sanded, put a couple coats of filling primer (with more wet sanding between them) and then a couple coats of bumper paint to finish it.

 

First oil change after the "free" Toyota Care changes at the dealership were done - I was at about 31,500 miles.

Swapped out the filter housing for the aluminum one (Part number 15620-31060) - including swapping the perforated middle piece from the old housing over to this new one.

$19 Toyota Oil Filter Cap - 15620-31060

Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly : Automotive



Also installed a Fumoto valve in the oil pan.

$37 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body Fumoto Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25, Gold

Amazon.com: F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body Fumoto Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25 : Automotive


Used the K&N Premium oil filter (I've had good luck with these on my 2008, and price is comparable)

$16 K&N Premium Oil Filter: Protects your Engine: Compatible with Select 2005-2020 LEXUS/TOYOTA/FORD (LC500, LX570, GS F, RC F, IS F, Camry, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra, Escape), HP-7018

Amazon.com: K&N Premium Oil Filter: Protects your Engine: Compatible with Select 2005-2020 LEXUS/TOYOTA/FORD (LC500, LX570, GS F, RC F, IS F, Camry, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra, Escape) , HP-7018 : Automotive

I also changed the engine air filter with one from the local AutoZone - we'll see how it does, it has an extra "prefilter" element that I'm not sure if I like the idea of. I may eventually go to the AFE dry filter (I had one in my 2008 that did well for ~200k miles with periodic cleaning).
STP Air Filter SA11895 (autozone.com)

and the cabin air filter - I installed the "flow" pointing down (the Toyota filter is labeled "UP" not "FLOW" but I'm 99% sure the airflow is down).
FRAM Fresh Breeze® Cabin Air Filter CF10285 | FRAM

A couple of other comments:

• I made a damn mess pulling my factory oil pan bolt - oil on the inside of the tire, oil dripped onto the top side of the skid plate, oil on the floor. I'm looking forward to the next change with the Fumoto so that the mess will be contained much better. I'm not looking forward to dropping my skid plate to try to clean it.
• The dealership had installed my filter housing so tight I had to use an air impact for about 20 seconds straight to break it loose (after first trying a beater and a breaker bar to try to get it loose). Absolutely ridiculous, considering that the torque spec on that thing is only 18 ft-lbs. In retrospect, I'll probably not use them for the "free" changes on any new rigs I may buy in the future.

The newer designed MotivX filter housing socket is great compared to older designs I've used on my 2008. Without it (and the air impact hitting the 15/16" hex part), I would not have been able to get my old housing off the truck. And the housing drain tool worked well (I used to have one for my 2008, but have misplaced it).

$55 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems

Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems : Automotive

Also, using a screw-in oil funnel was so nice. I've never had one before - don't think I'll ever not own one for a rig moving forward

$16 APSG LOCKING OIL FUNNEL | Compatible with select Toyota Lexus Scion | No-Spill Tool SCREWS DIRECTLY INTO FILLER | Fast & Easy Oil Change/Fill with No Mess !

Amazon.com: APSG Funnel | for Select Toyota/Lexus/Scion | No-Spill Tool Screws Directly INTO Filler | Fast & Easy Oil Changes/Filter with No Mess : Automotive

 

As a bonus, the lower part of the funnel that screws to the engine works great to hold a shop vac hose so you can run the vac and swap the drain plug to the Famoto without having to drain the oil. @BiggHertz taught me the shop vac trick.

This is from when I tried it on my wife’s Highlander.

 

Really?!
With how the oil in the Tundra came pouring out, I can’t imagine being able to swap the drain without a huge mess or full drain…short of sucking all the oil out through the fill spout.

 

I was skeptical too, but tried it out with the oil drain pan underneath just in case Jason was trolling me. Didn’t spill a drop. Just a lot of gurgling through the drain hole lol.

 

Wondering if the vacuum size and suction strength makes a difference

 

Worked fine with my 4 gal Rigid. As long as there’s good suction there shouldn’t be a problem.

 

So a girlfriend would be useful, but not a wife since the suction usually stops after marriage?

 

Agreed, I've never seen a mess like the first change on the Tundra, Fumoto installed immediately. Although, Subaru's are pretty brutal as well.

 

I didn’t realize what a PITA it is to change the oil on these Tundra’s. My 2010 Tacoma was by far the easiest vehicle to do oil changes on. I’ve got one more “free” oil change at my dealer in about 1000 miles. After that I guess I’ll be making a mess.

 

Buy the Fumoto and ask your dealer to install it on your last oil change instead of the plug. Just make sure they don't overtighten in.

 

Updated the Head Unit to Audio software version 1162 and the Navigation to software version 1150.
Toyota Software Updates

Entered my VIN and it showed two updates were available.
Downloaded the files, stuck them on a thumb drive (2GB or larger, formatted to FAT32), then followed these instructions (since I couldn't find instructions on the site):

1. Unplug anything from the USB port (normally my CPLAY2AIR adapter is in there).
2. Turn ON the truck engine
3. Plug in the USB drive, wait until the head unit says "reading USB drive"
4. Go to Settings -> General -> Software Update
5. It will pop up "Software update found" and prompt you to install it. Follow the steps on screen.
6. When the update is done (it took ~5 minutes), shut OFF the truck.
7. Unplug the USB, then turn ON the engine again.
8. Navigate back to the software update screen again and confirm the new software numbers.

Here's the information after the update:


Change Log info from the above site shows:

 

Thank you sir.

 

I’ve got a pile of parts stacking up, but not quite everything I need to do my next project.

In the meantime, I’ve been dealing with a couple of minor warranty things that have come up on some of my add-ons.

First, my passenger side step at the rear door has the finish peeling off of the front. I reached out to N-fab, and they have been very quick to respond and cover the steps under warranty. I’ve opted to purchase new ones, and then send back the old ones in the same box (this way I don’t go without steps for any period of time). They are covering the shipping and full credit when my old ones arrive back there - I just need a free evening when it’s not pouring rain to make the swap. I’m satisfied with their response and solution and still happy with the steps.

Second, I noticed a gap on my passenger tow mirror where the front marker light met the rear housing. It was perhaps 2-3mm bigger at that spot than anywhere else. I reached out to Boost Auto, and they also were very quick to respond. They walked me through pulling apart the mirror to check for a specific interior screw that might be the culprit but it was not. So they had me box up the mirror and send it back for them to investigate (shipping paid). Ultimately, they couldn’t repair it so they sent out a new one that looks perfect (and matches the other side). All this even knowing the mirror was about 4 months past their stated warranty. I had to put my old mirrors back on for about 2 weeks while shipping happened both directions, but it gave me a chance to re-evaluate if I might want to go back to stock platinum mirrors…which my answer is NO. I realized how much I like the extra view and the greater coverage of the two different pieces of glass.

Tonight, I got the tow mirrors back on and I feel whole again

 

Glad Boost came thru for you!

 

Yeah - they were quick to reply and great to work with.
I also noticed they sell some parts on their site now to…like if you bought the low outdoor lights and want high output later. Or if you want color match-able caps

 

They have had the replacement caps for a bit. I remember seeing those when I was trying to debate black or paintable and I thought about buying a set of each. Good to know they are offering adjustments and hopefully spare parts.
I just need a half day so I can get mine installed and run the wiring

 

Parts are starting to build up...
I need to get wiring adapters for the license plate light, because I don't want to just hack and butt-splice the factory harness like CBI says to do in the install video.
And I'm trying to decide on what finish I want on the aluminum tread plates on the top of the bumper - I might go color matched on those and maybe color match the BSM inserts as well.

 

Yes! And the color match would looks awesome

 

Roadmaster Active Suspension finally installed today. I got the SD version because I don’t have a decked system and capper and RTT and all that.

Install was pretty easy now that I’ve got all the necessary tools rounded up (a functional large low-profile floor jack and some jack stands). I dropped the spare tire as well and it was under an hour start to finish.

I’ll have to get a profile picture with it on level ground.

I set it to the white spacer (1mm) which lifted the back just a hair over 1” from before.

Driving home on a pretty windy road, I gave it hell in the corners and it was much more planted.

My measurements (Westcott Fox TRD Pro front kit installed and Coachbuilder +2 rear shackles, and a half tank of gas) from center of hub up to the edge of the fever opening
Before RAS:
Front - 25”
Rear - 24 1/2”

After RAS:
Front - 25”
Rear - 25 5/8”

 

Did you get those just to get rid of your negative rake? Do they limit articulation at all?

 

Provides similar “feedback” to a rear sway bar but they are independent and do not limit articulation. It’s also a sort of “helper spring” on the leaf that also aids stability and reduces sag with a heavy load, but I didn’t notice any increased harshness or stiffness hitting the “known” bumps on my usual trip home from my MIL’s (where I installed them).

In the spring, I end up hauling gravel, dirt, bark dust, and/or wood chips at least a half dozen times (seems closer to 10 loads any more) and having a full load for 25 miles or so can be a bit floaty/loose so that was my primary reason. The secondary reason was to tighten up the cornering. And the tertiary reason was to get just a touch of rake back without potentially further compromising the leafs with an even longer shackle.

I do still want to add some progressive extended bumps in the rear since I am sitting a bit higher than factory now (the Westcott front kit came with extended bumps up front).

 

Thats crazy that before you installed the RAS you were 1/2” lower in the rear. I have the exact same setup (Westcott front and +2 shackle in rear) and I’m sitting 1/2” higher in the rear-pretty much factory stance, only higher overall. That’s net +1” over yours. Are your leafs flattened out at all?

I have +3 shackles that I bought in the group buy, but I don’t think I’m going to install them. I do squat when towing my boat, but its not terrible. Was thinking airbags, but RAS may be an option. Would like to see how they do under load.

 

@FISHN43

I think I’m going to unload the air bags in favor of RAS and Duro Bumps. I can’t find a PSI to run them at that feels like the truck did when I didn’t have the airbags.

@RainMan_PNW the fact they don’t limit articulation seals the deal for me