What Annoys You About Your Truck?

I have a soft spot for the 67-72 C-series trucks. I'm pretty sure all of them came with wing windows, although a couple of companies made kits to delete those for people who found them aggravating.

 

Why did they leak a lot in rain?

 

Mostly aesthetics, one sold piece of glass looks cooler, and the seals on the vertical bar dry-rotted out anyway.

If you pitch them out far enough to really redirect a good gust of wind into the cab, there was obvious risk of dripping inside, but it's not significant or what I'd call a "lot".

If anything, the drip rail along the roofline was a bigger source of leaks.

The way the fresh air intake was setup on the 67-72, with the little flop-out door in the kickpanel that pulls air from the cowl, it was so insignificant you either need to move to a mild climate or have an A/C installed if you wanted 1pc windows and not die of overheatng.

 

Yep, it was the top of the line trim package, factory tach, dual fuel tanks, all the goodies offered in 1972. It was more comfortable to drive and sit in than the Tundra, and with the manual trans, was way more satisfying to drive. I miss 3 pedals, thank goodness the "auto" mentality hasn't made many inroads into my motorcycle hobby. Just a few dual clutch options on Goldwings, but they still offer a manual box as well.

 

People used to pull them closed by the latch and over many years it would get sloppy and not latch tightly when closed. If you would push the glass to open them and close them it wasn't a problem. I've rebuilt some over the years and then they were good as new again. They were neat in that when you cracked them open a bit you got lots of ventilation without the blast of wind from an open window.

 

I find that every time I sell an airhead, I almost immediately go out and start shopping for another one.

 

Yep, that’s what I liked as well. Got to drive the family 72 chevelle wagon with the 396 cu-in block. Fun to get it out on the highway and open it up. Only downside was losing change to the holes in the floorboards.

 

After living out of my truck for a month, sleeping in the driver seat, the headrests annoy me. Sure, an unattentive driver might snap my neck, but thats probably a best case scenerio when considering the alternatives to a motorcycle wreck. The slow seat motors are worrying, but still working, and reclining with the seat back and no lumbar is surprisingly comfortable. Driving with lumbar is also comfortable, 5 or so hours with a 15-30 min break or so. My a/c gets too cold. Sure, i can adjust the temp, but that wastes too much energy. Let the a/c run a couple cycles, then switch it off for 15 min or so, let it cool things off, then kick it off again for a bit. No regerts, but i also had my pass floor vent blocked, so even on low there was more airflow. Fml, i get 18mpg with an empty or tightly packed load. I get 15.3 with a rolled up chainlink fence (granted i sat in traffic for 30 min) and 14.4 hauling 5k lbs of tractor and trailer. Aero mods like a full bellypan are in my future. As is new suspension, a ladder rack, an awning, and taller skinnier tires. I’m gonna have to remove my back seat. My last ridgeback couldnt turn around while sitting in the back with em folded, and my puppy wont fit in the front forever.

 

the wing vents on my ‘80 furd and ‘71 nova didnt leak, but the shin vents will soak your shoes. The wing vents on grandma’s ‘92 b350 get spots on the inside glass, but i think that the mirrors fault, cause if you fold em in they dont leak.

 

Most annoying thing about the Tundra is other Tundra owners and their bro-dozin' way of modifying their trucks. There is a HIGH percentage of posers on this forum.

 

I cant always drop off the highway onto the feeder with my lady tires, and rowdier tires require clearancing.

there are not enough roof top tents in first gen to quantify as posers.

 

My air cooled VW's of the past, carried the brake master cylinder inside the car right above the pedal, and when it leaked, as they do sometimes, you would get brake fluid on your shin. Or as my Haynes manual stated, a spot of brake fluid on your trousers. All and all, I loved them.

 

Can you can simply remove the cargo light fuse? That's what I did on mine, but I'm unsure if the '01 allows it. Quick and easy fix to get rid of the cargo light.

 

Need to look and see if theres 1 fuse that controls just that? Your 04 just has a fuse that only controls cargo lamps then? Where is it located?

 

https://www.google.com/amp/s/fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-tundra-2000-2006-fuses-and-relay
#24 in the dash?

 

Yeah definitely a dedicated fuse for cargo for my ‘02

but what I did was route harness from the chmsl to the bottom of the driver B panel. So I can tap cargo and nuke the ground to kill all lights when the shell is on. My plan is to use a flange on the side of the bed and a loop back to connect grounds and keep it waterproof whenever the shell is off.

The brake is useless with a shell on too. And cargo is nice to use to trigger bed lights and rock lights.

 

Looks like #25. Must have missed that one. I'll pull it before we leave or at some point on the trip.

 

I see it as #24 for the 2001 Pass Side fuse box.

 

2001 Owners Manual says 24 but known to be wrong.

 

This is what I saw when I looked it up on the link posted. Looks like #25

Was in the number 24 spot on mine. Pulled it and light is off now. Thanks!

 

If I did not fully close my door, the cargo and dome lights would not turn off. After this caused a dead battery, decided to remove the cargo and dome fuse. Problem solved. No cargo and dome lights is a slight annoyance. Dead battery was a major annoyance.

 

I've had that happen multiple times. Especially since my door is tweaked out, and my seat belt likes to not retract.