General Supercharger Thread

In my research I’ve been under the impression that there is a conflation between boost and power. More boost doesn’t necessarily mean more power. I could see how low end torque could suffer with long tubes as opposed to stock manifolds either way though, so if that’s what your after most then I see the benefits of stock manifolds.

 

I'm still on the fence regarding LTHs. I like the sound they deliver, especially Stainless Works, but for the small gains and the rest of the changes required put me off.

 

add em later.

install the known variables. enjoy for a few months.

then mix it up.

 

Day 2 at the shop. Still can't figure out the misfires. Fantastic.

 

Have you tried switching cylinder 1 injector out for another cylinder, and if the issue doesn’t follow try switching that spark plug with another as well? I’ve seen reports of broken valve springs causing misfires too. Since it’s isolated to a particular cylinder I would think there’s a good chance it’s one of those.

 

Yep. Did that before bringing it to the shop. Swapped 1 and 4 to see if the misfire followed... It didn't. They've since switched the coil and plug out to a new one. Still no luck. Waiting to hear back.

 

Boo. I hope they get it sorted.

 

Thats the route I'm leaning towards. Wanting to get a modest lift and some bigger meats at some point.

 

same.

LSD w/ 5.29, Slightly bigger rims/tires, level kit.

Son comes home for the summer - gotta get him under the truck to trans drain & fill


that Trans valve body thing is inching it's way up the list as well.

 

Did mine along with the SC. The 1-2 shift feels nice and strong now.

 

did a transmission shop do it?

man, If I knew a shop in Houston that could do the LSD & Trans valve body it would make my decision much easier.

These east side shops are sketchy.

 

LSD is on my list but in my case regear probably wont be necessary. Was eyeballing 37s then backed off to 35s since it can be done with no BMC/CMC. For my purposes I think a 2inch lift will be fine if I opt out of 35s. Best of both worlds for street and offroad use. Not planning to do any hardcore wheeling or overlanding.

 

Same shop that did my SC did my Valve body and LSD. They're a full performance shop. Although they do mostly Dodge stuff.

 

No. Get 5.29s

 

Oh and the IPT Trans will make the list too. Still researching opinions on day to day driving with that upgrade.

 

Hehe you devil. I'm tempted.

<Insert inappropriate sexy devil gif>

 

Really questioning what to go with for gears, if at all. If I go 5.29s my reservation is towing on the highway I usually leave it in S4 or S5 and I don’t want to be screaming at 3500 RPMs @70 while pulling my trailer. I’m also running 34s right now too, so not even 35s. I’m sure the power is amazing though.

 

If you leave it in S4 or S5 right now, after regearing you'd leave it in S5 or S6 then. You're only spinning a higher rpm with 5.29s if you're in 6th gear because you can't shift to a higher gear, any gear/rpm lower than 6th (now) is just a higher gear with 5.29s because 6th+5.29s = same wheel torque as 5th+stock gears (approximating things here). 5.29s opens up your options for what gear/rpm to use--you can either rev it out with stock gears or 5.29s, or run a higher gear and much lower rpm where you flat out can't do that now because you can't generate enough torque at the wheel. So if anything, you might run a lower rpm (figure 6th @ 2500rpm vs 5th @ 3000rpm, because you don't have the option for 6th now).

The only time that higher rpm because a question with gearing is if you've run out of gears in the transmission, and considering you can do 80mph @ 2650rpm with 35s, that's not really a factor imo

 

So you don’t think I’d cook the transmission keeping it in 6th towing an 8000 lb camper with 5.29s? I’m more wondering about the torque converter slip, and I’m honestly not that familiar with all of nuances of the transmission. I’ve just been told that in S4 there is a lot less heat being generated in the transmission. Any input in that regard?

 

The torque converter being unlocked generates heat in any gear, there is nothing special about S4. The torque converter will lock up in 4th-6th (doesn't seem possible for 1st-3rd from what I can tell). If your torque converter is locked in 5th now, and you regear, it'll probably be locked in 6th. Just take your operational gear range and move it up a notch, but all the other variables should remain about the same. Running 3000rpm in 4th, tranny running cool, engine at 203F? Regear and the only thing that changes is you're at 2500rpm in 5th, but tranny still running cool, engine still at 203F.

And just to flex the tune @ViktorG set up for me, my truck will lock up the converter as fast as it can after it shifts. I can be WOT in 4th-6th and my transmission temp won't move a hair. Any of the tuning companies have the option for adjusting converter lock up which is what drives tranny temp---but like I said, 6th gear can be locked up, so there's no reason you should be overheating the trans running in a higher gear than 4th. S4 is recommended so the truck has excess torque and is more likely to lockup, but if you have excess torque in 5th or 6th with the stock tune it'll want to lock up then too. A higher gearing in the axle means everything up stream is happier and not working as hard.

 

Thanks for taking the time to explain. The TC lockup was the part I was unsure about as far as heat buildup. I’m not sure how the DAP tune has effected my lockup. I know that the truck will just keep pulling in 6th without downshifting so quickly now when hills are encountered, but I’m not sure if that’s directly related.

 

It can be hard to tell if the converter is locked up, besides a 200rpm change as the lockup engages/disengages there's no real tell tale. But if you're monitoring trans temps with an OBD2 reader you'll see the trans temp quickly climb once it unlocks. If you don't monitor trans temp when towing (geared or not) I'd suggest doing that too, I just use my phone and Torque Pro any time I'm towing a load.

 

Figured I'd post this here since it would likely get the best response. I know most of you guys are running the Harrop, but any thoughts are welcome. I had the Magnuson installed just over 2 years ago and maybe 7-8 months (just guessing here) after the install I had a very slight coolant leak from the hose that connects to the crossover pipe. It wasn't really a leak so much, but mainly crusty coolant that built up at the hose connection. This has been cleaned up and comes back. I had the clamp changed from the factory style to a worm clamp per Magnuson's direction and it still continues. The hose appears good with no splits and is cut even. The clamp is tight also. Toyota tech thinks there might be a hairline crack or fracture in where the nipple comes out of the crossover pipe. Magnuson has agreed to send me a new crossover pipe which should be here tomorrow. Does anyone know if I'd be able to swap crossover pipes without removing the blower?

 

Yes, I have done this replacement. The blower does not need to come off.

 

Glad to hear that. Did you have a similar issue?

 

I just got off the phone with Joey at National speed. He said he wasn’t able to send me any dyno information but that the numbers they advertise are fairly accurate with the different stages. He said they got those results through their internal R&D. I did specifically ask about the LTH and he did confirm you do get a little torque loss in the beginning but do increase in hp.

 

Generally, but in my case it was this little bugger that was leaking.

 

I resemble the above remarks....

 

I'm towing near 9k regularly, have 5.29s, maggie etc, the only time I get into 6th is pretty much flat ground and just maintaining speed, most of the time you'll be in 5th, the temperature is pretty stable as well.

Are we talking about the maggie or Harrops? I spoke to Dennis at D3, and they are thinking about a stage 2 upgrade for Maggies, I feel like all the hp talk may be moot point, I care about that ET! rather have lower whp but faster and consistent time in 1/4 mile, I told Dennis I'd like to run consistent low 13s/high 12s on 35s vs high whp readings.

I have Stainless works, and 5.29s and powertrax, I'd rather re-gear first if I had to do it again.

 

How do you like the Powertrax off road and on road?